Am switching out bi-fold closet doors for a set of sliding doors that utilize a full bottom track. The track needs to be secured to the floor so will require cutting the carpet where it passes from the bedroom floor into the closet floor.
What is the best way to secure the loose carpet ends? My first thought would be just to use a tack strip, but I imagine bare feet stepping on it might not feel so good. It’s not a walk-in closet, so maybe it doesn’t matter, but thought I’d check around before I barreled ahead.
Thanks.
Replies
I'd be inclined to drop the track right on the existing carpet. The NEXT carpetlayer might cuss a bit, but it's not hard to unscrew the track when they change out the carpet. Then they can put the track on the floor or a piece of 1/2" plywood, etc.
I would pull up the carpet in the closet to allow access to install a strip of plywood where the track will be. Just remove the pad where the plywood strip will go and then reattach the carpet. Finally, mount the track on the carpet.
I once had a house with a tack strip in an area that could be walked on. The carpet installer used his hammer to bend the nails over so they wouldn't hurt your feet when walked on. The installer indicated it was a common thing to do, so you might want to discuss it with your carpet installer.
I'd mount the track on top of the carpet.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Thanks for the suggestions. I did install it over the carpet, but discovered it was too thick (or the closet opening too short) to allow the doors to be mounted. However I will check to see if removing the pad might be enough to gain the clearance I need. If that fails, then I'll probably go with the tack strip and bending the nails over.Though my question with bending them would be, he must have done this after the carpet was laid? Otherwise there would be no 'grab' for the carpet?Thanks.
The hardware that rides in the bottom track.....does it mount onto the door? Or within? (Mortised)
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
It is mounted to the door. the Design of this particular unit is the top "floats" in the upper track and the bottom has wheels that that ride in the bottom track.
Do you feel confident enough in your abilities to remove the hardware and cut the door to accomodate the carpet?
Getting doors in and out may be a mild pain in the tuckus if you remove the padding and or carpet altogether.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
You're correct. He bent the nails over after the carpet was laid. Took a normal claw type hammer and knocked over all the nails. He ran his hand along the area to be sure there weren't any nail points still sticking up.
I'd also put it on top of the carpet. Can you do away with the full length track and use something less obvious?
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Unfortunately no, I cannot do away with the track. The way these are desinged it requires the bottom track to roll and guide and the doors.
Put the track down where its supposed to go.make a mark with tape or something , then cut the carpeet exactly down the center line of the track . fold the carpet back temporarily. Now place the track where its supposed to go again, this time cut out the pad where ever it touches the track . now fold back the carpet, and install the track over the seam. the track will tighten the carpet to the ground and without the pad it should install just fine.
In cases like these where it either doesn't function or look right screwed down into the carpet, I pull the carpet back, starting from the wall, remove strip of pad, add 1/4" to 7/16" (depending on carpet thickness) strip of ply under the track, reinstall carpet, restretch carpet and screw down track.
Jobs like these are the only reason I picked up a knee kicker. A carpet guy will tell you that a knee kicker can't properly stretch the carpet, but when he shows up to do the job that's all he'll use. Go figure.
If you cut the carpet it has to have a tack strip or there is no way to retain tension and over time the carpet will pucker. Stapling or tacking the edges down if cutting under the track would also work, but pulling up closet carpet and kicking it back in is probably just as fast.
Good luck
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I would remove the padding under the track then install the track over the carpet.
Careful if you use screws, it could unravel the carpet threads (remember what happened when you pulled on a woolstring from grandma's selfmade woolsweater?)
Thanks for all the suggestions. Given the nature of the doors and that they can't be readily modified, I think I might start with the suggestion of cutting a seam down the middle where the track goes. If that works, great. If not, then I just trim the carpet back a bit, use tack strips, and bend the nails.
You still have the problem with the carpet fastening at the front of the closet. By leaving the carpet intact and just taking the underlay out you can install the track directly over the carpet. Height should be ok unless the carpet is unusually thick, no cutting, no extra labor (dont forget you would have to secure the carpet behind the track also)
That's why I'm hoping the seam can ride under the track. I could pull the carpet and remove the pad, but another twist to this closet is it is extra wide inside, with deep fixed shelfs running on one side. So getting to the carpet to lift and reinstall will not be fun. (A previous owner added on over the garage, necessitating a new hallway through the former bedroom/bathroom, creating this 'unique' closet.)
makes sense. Just secure the carpet before installing the track. Don't forget the unravelling danger when you use screws to fasten the track.
I did one of the xact same difficulty so you look at all the ? options.
Basically your looking at laying carpet in two different rooms/tackless on both sides of the track. A closet doesn't have to be stretched super.
The other easy way and just a little expense and time is to order the doors what ever size you need. Minor up charge and a little down time. finish it off and be done/ wait on doors to get in.
I'm talkin glass or mirror doors not wood. Cause if it's wood Hey wheres the saw.
You got it. They're mirrored. Naturally our daughter would want something that wasn't readily modifiable ;-)
Did you already buy them? And if you did perhaps you could order custom size and if need be make a return of the originals? Receipts and nice new box that the customs come in.?
I also had to order a set of beveled mirror doors with pewter trim band in like???? 46" instead of 48" /2-2'0 so the bevel would not be overlapping and they were not very expensive over stock size. 3 week wait.
Are you certain that by cutting into the carpet, you will gain enough for the doors to operate properly?
If so, how much gain do you need as opposed to installing directly over the carpet? I don't suppose you'll gain more than a 1/4" to 1/2" depending on carpet type.
What kind of carpet is it?
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
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