As a way of introduction, I’m new to this forum and and somewhat new to remodeling. I do this as a volunteer for charities & my church. I am helping a friend do some remodeling in his family home. They are foster parents for children with serious health problems.
The first problem we will run into soon is how to trim the bottom off a new pre-hung interior door to sweep the carpet. What would I use to seal that raw wood? Any other considerations?
Second problem is the exterior door. When we removed the old interior wall covering and installed sheetrock we had to shim the studs to make them straight so the sheetrock would lay right. This left the door jambs varying from 1/2″ to 1″ from the surface of the sheetrock. I believe I need to install jamb extensions to bring the jambs level with the sheetrock but not sure how to do this. How do I attach the jamb extensions and then get them level with the surrounding sheetrock? Second, do I need to remove the door & hinges from it current setting within the jamb and reinstall taking into account the new jamb extensions?
Appreciate any assistance/advice given!!
Replies
Multiple ways to skin a cat. (Who just said that the other day?) I cut door bottoms just shy of the line with a skil saw and smooth it with a block plane. Chamfer the edges so they don't snag with a belt sander on low with 220. You can seal the cut edge with whatever finish the door is going to have, paint, lacquer . . .
Not sure if I follow on the door - I think you're saying the jamb width isn't wide enough for what you have, and you set it flush to the outside. That complicates things with your hinges. If I have to use extensions on a door for some reason, flush the inside and extend the outside. Better option, order it with jambs as wide as the widest point. If you have wavy walls, you have to go with flush as you can inside and deal with the waves when you case it. I can't see (in what I'm picturing here) telling you to block plane things flush all around inside, since that would have you planing by the hinges. That pretty much needs to stay straight.
Considering whats involved to make it right and your stated novice level of experience, hiring this one out seems fairly prudent. All you need is a church full of people looking at a mussed up door every time they pass by and blaming you, never mind it was charity work. That will be overlooked shortly.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
RW,
Thanks for the your solid input. We plan on varnishing the door after we trim the bottom.
The exterior door is a different matter. Can't afford to hire someone to do it. After thinking about your advice, we are looking at removing the door and the exterior trim and reinstalling it so we can flush it with the inside wall. Then add on jamb extensions to the outside and then reattach the trim. We are only working on the weekends so it will be a couple of weekends before we have to work this issue.
Just so there isn't any misunderstanding, I do have a bit of experience with some areas of remodeling but doors have always challenged me. I don't work with them enough to get the real experience necessary to overcome challenges like this one. Mostly have been involved with the building of a couple of decks and patio covers, plus built my own add-on 12X24 family room with fireplace. At that time I hired a company to do the sheet rock and its finishing. Glad I did. Since then I have slowly gained experience with sheet rock.
CB n Pcola
CB,
Pcola as in Pensacola, FL? All right, someone else from the Gulf Coast! I'm right across state lines here in Mobile. Not to hijack your thread, but have ya done any Habitat houses? I hear P'cola has an awesome local affiliate. Anyway, glad to have ya aboard BT and stick around, there's always good info here.
My suggestion on the entry door only applies "if" the rough opening is wide enough to allow offsetting the extension 1/2" to avoid the hinges and striker plate. You can actually "scribe" the extension to match the drywall then nail on the casing, which will be flush to the wall.
Have read and responded to many Habitat volunteers in this forum, Thanks, to all who volunteer. Just remember when you volunteer, work with the site supervisor not against him, he is trying to keep things consistent from one house to the next.
Graybeard,
Thanks for your input. Not enuf clearance to offset the jamb extensions so will place them straight on. Had planned to pull door and reset level with interior wall, however, the owner had replaced this door earlier and he said he had used construction adhesive and nails to set the door in place. Would probably tear up the door to remove it, so will just add on in the interior.
Plan to scribe the extensions to the drywall for a good fit.
CB
I am trying to visualize by what you gave me. and since , as you said it is for charity, i wonder what the budget it is. It might be a nicer job if you re hang the door on new jambs. If the door is worth it. It might be easier to pull the whole door jamb and all and move it back 1" and put your extensions on the outside. I don't know every situation is a new adventure. Does this door open in ? If you have to move hinges, Re Hang the door. or get a new one, with a wider jamb. If time is money.
If you extend the inside, I don't know about the hinges. Does it need to open all the way to lay flat on the wall , it was hung in. Does it open onto a partion wall. My guess is if you are considering a 1" extention you don't need to open it all the way.
An In -swing prehung exterior door usually has about an 1" inch edge of interior door jamb exposed ready for casing. If you leave a nice reveal about a 1/4" you can get a little more out of your swing. That means your nailing area will be about 3/4" with a 1/4" reveal .That is very thin. You could shave back the sheetrock , And make your extention peices from 5/4 stock which would make your ext. 1" x 1 1/8" (not that you need that extra 3/8 but it is more stable.) I would pre drill and use titebond and 1 5/8" square drive trim head screws and screw it fast. then mark where your screw go thru, on the side of the extension. then when you hang the case, You won't hit them. Which you can do fairly soon, after you do the extension, because those nails will help pin it tight while the glue drys. The only real obstacle in applying wood strips like this is having good solid nailing. You might have to shim the casing on the outside. This means you'll need longer nails You can use some of those adjustable hinge pin door stops they might help limit the door swing ing into the partition wall. Its all about what you want to live with.
Use what ever your finishing the door with to seal the wood. but allow for vinyl bottom sweep, when you trim it down. Good luck
Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
Muleskinner,
Thanks for your input. Not enuf clearance to offset the jamb extensions so will place them straight on. Had planned to pull door and reset level with interior wall, however, the owner had replaced this door earlier with a new one and he said he had used construction adhesive and nails to set the door in place. Would probably tear up the door frame to remove it, so will just add on in the interior jambs.
This is an in-swing door and the clearance to the wall is just enuf to allow trim. It opens onto an exterior wall. The door will open 90 degrees once the extensions are installed & the owner is aware of that.
This door has a 3/4" ledge of exposed jamb & I don't believe I have enuf room to offset the extensions. I plan to glue and screw as you said. Good idea about the hinge pin stops, I've used them before and will try to use them here.
Plan to scribe the extensions to the drywall for a good fit.
CB
you could of set them. I could off set them. but your the one doing it. Good luck.Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
Just a thought.
Go to your local supplier or an on-line speciality site and look for some 4-1/2 " "broad butt" hinges and apply to door and jamb at the same position in the mortises. This will move the line of the pivot out into the room and allow for more "swing back" for the door.
An oversized half mortise hinge will also do the same, but you will have to fill the hinge mortises on the door.
............Iron Helix
somebody took my hammer and left me with thier old #### one. I liked that hammer!
Edited 5/16/2003 9:18:38 AM ET by MuleSkinner
Edited 5/16/2003 9:20:56 AM ET by MuleSkinner
Edited 5/16/2003 9:23:14 AM ET by MuleSkinner
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll run by Lowes and HD to see if they have these 4-1/2 " "broad butt" hinges. Never heard of them but will be interesting to see how they work.
Interesting how a remodeling job can take one into so much unknown and challenging territory. This project started out to create a new bedroom for a 1 year old foster child with a number of serious medical issues. The whole space was once a 1 car garage but converted years ago by previous owner. This room started out as a small utility room that is next to another son's much larger room.
To do this work we moved the washer, dryer, water heater and chest freezer out of the small utility room onto the covered porch onto a platform we built. That meant moving all the plumbing and electrical services. Brought my son-in-law in to help with that. At that time it was decided to replace the old (24 year old water heater with a new unit). Moved an existing partition wall, to provide more space, which I had to rebuild since the old studs were so out of whack! Reframed the door opening so a new door can be installed. Will install that once the sheet rock is finished on that wall. Maybe this weekend. Also had to add 3 more outlets and rewire the existing room wall switch to control a ceiling fan that will be installed after all the sheet rock work is done. Removed old paneling and 3/4" plywood and installed sheet rock and am working on finishing it. Start texturing the ceiling and walls soon.
Once rock is finished and exterior door trimmed, add trim around door leading into house. One of the last things to do is install new ceiling fan and hook up to power.
Owner will install new flooring and paint. I'm on to another project......
Whew!! Just got tired listing all that. HA!! However, this is fun and relaxing for me and it helps these friends who have a great ministry that helps our community, especially the children they work with.
CB