Replies

1. 
   fredsmart48 | Oct 23, 2002 03:56pm | #1

   I am sure some one here will tell you but in the mean time.

   Did you read the instruction that should have come with the windows and trim.

   Did you contact the mfg. and ask them did they tell you to take flying leap. The local distributor should know I would think. What is your boss doing to find out how to install it the right way.

2. 
   FrankB89 | Oct 23, 2002 04:41pm | #2

   I've never heard of nailing trim into the vinyl.  The trim is usually fastened to the building structurewith the trim surrounding the vinyl.

    

3. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 23, 2002 11:55pm | #3

   now I'm confused...are we talking interior or exterior trim?

   Jeff

   ..............Al-ways look on......the bright......side of life.............

1. 
   JasonKehl | Oct 24, 2002 03:07am | #4

   I am talking about the interior window trim, your typical off the shelf wood window casing. I have not talked to the manufacturers although I should I suppose. My boss does not care in the least, in general he cares very little about details as long as it won't fall down and the customer is happy enough to pay him.

   Another related question. Do you actually square your windows when installing them as per instructions or just level or plumb one side and nail it in like that? Can you actually tweak the squareness of a window, won't the ridgidity of the glass prevent any squaring up? Again, any and all experience would be great. Jas.

1. 
   lecutter | Oct 24, 2002 03:15am | #5

   jas, I've seen 2 different methods of doing this both of which includ building the jamb and casing it before you install it. You can get jamb material with a weatherstrip type ot gaske on it that presses against the window or you can use standard jamb material that will rest inside a channel that is attached to the window in both of these applications the jamb is just floating and not actually attached to anything but the casing. Hope this is helpful.

1. 
   JasonKehl | Oct 24, 2002 03:35am | #6

   Thanks for your reply , we use wood jambs on occasion but for the most part the windows come with a manufacturer installed vinyl jamb that is molded right in with the rest of the window frame so we have to find a way of dealing with it as it is. Jas.

2. 
   Nivek | Oct 24, 2002 03:45am | #7

   Jas,

   When I install windows I square them up at the same time. The frame of the window can move quite a bit in each direction especially PVC ones. If it is a new construction that I have framed the rough opening will be level and parallel with the ceiling so all I have to do is put two 1/2" blocks of plywood (or more  depending on window size) on the rough opening sill and wet the window on top of that.  Fasten the two sides at the top to the rough opening, once depth is right, the take a diagonal measure to be sure it is square then fasten the two sides at the bottom.

   With renovating it can get a little more tedious because I want to keep my window parallel to the ceiling without it being too much out of level but usually following the flat ceiling works. Level does not mean much if it doesn't follow the other lines of the house.  As with the fastening into the PVC I never encountered any problems because there is a piece of pine behind the PVC wrapping that I can nail my trim to.

   Another thing to watch for with PVC crank windows, especially tall ones, is twisting. The window may not be square and it also can be twisted preventing the widow to close properly.  

   Kev

1. 
   rickchem | Oct 25, 2002 07:54pm | #8

   Maybe I'm thinking wrong here. . . buuut . . . if the unit is exactly plumb and level, is it not square?  I mean, your level line and plumb line should intersect at a 90 degree angle, and if the window follows that then it should be square.

1. 
   jonblakemore | Oct 25, 2002 10:08pm | #9

   If the sides are parallel then the unit will be square if the head/sill and side jambs are both equal.  Not always the case (wish it was).

   I usually check for square if it's easy just to double check how things are.

   Jon Blakemore

2. 
   Nivek | Oct 28, 2002 05:23am | #10

   You are right about the geometry of a level line and a plumb line being 90 degrees thus being square but you will have to have a good level and a good eye to get the same accurate readings you would if you used your tape measure. A level is only so accurate and to use it to square things up is not good practice. A square or a tape is the proper way and I prefer the tape the most because it is dead on and I can square up just about everything I frame with a little geometry. 

3. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 28, 2002 06:30am | #11

   I've never seen or heard of vinyl extension jambs......but I've never looked for them either..as all the ext jambs I've ever installed were from 1x stock.....

   But......for cassing attached to vinyl.....I'd say a narrow crown stapler would be the tool of choice......as I'm guessing since the ext jambs are vinyl.....the trim is paint grade.......

   even if it was stain grade......a few well place...and well oriented..as in...with the grain....and in a darker spot.....the staple would probably hold better than an 18g brad.

   I don't have a narrow stapler myself......but I've used a buddy's alot over the last 2 yrs...he has a cheap/basic Porter Cable.....a line of guns I usually don't like....but the stapler has yet to disappoint. Might be the one to look into for ya.......from what I remember when last I thought about buying one...it was one of the lower priced.

   Jeff..............Al-ways look on......the bright......side of life...........

                      .......whistle.....whistle.......whistle........

4. 
   Nivek | Nov 01, 2002 05:34am | #13

   The vinyle extension jambs are actually 1x stock covered with a thin piece of removable vinyle. It covers the exposed side of the wood and the woods edge facing outward. The jambs can easily be modified if they are shipped too large by just removing the vinyle, cutting back the 1x stock,cutting the vinyle with a knife on the inside edge and reinstalling the vinyle.

   Kevin

3. 
   gordsco | Nov 01, 2002 09:57am | #14

   Hi Jas, I seem to be jumping in a bit late on this thread, but I've trimmed this style of window alot. Stick with the 18ga, if the jambs are blowing on you tweak the pressure a bit, keep your nailer good and tight to the trim and shoot with the gun facing 90 deg. to the jamb. I dunno, works for me. I can't remember the last time I had a blowout, but then again our jobsites are heated.

   If the jamb is sitting outside of the drywall, you have to back cut the miters to make them fit (this really sucks, especialy with high profile trim). If the jamb is sitting inside the drywall, smash the drywall around the window with a hammer to flatten it out. I used to cut the drywall back with a utility knife but the hammer method produces the same result in about 1/10th the time. Don't be shy with the hammer, the trim will cover the hammer marks and you won't compromise the vapor barrier.

   If you are nailing trim on large vinyl jamb windows (over 6') with southern exposure, run a bead of carpenters glue down the backside of the casing to fasten it to the drywall. The large ones have a tendancy to grow and bow in the sun.

   hope this helps

4. 
   PhillGiles | Oct 28, 2002 08:56am | #12

   A lot of these are done with "picture frame" trim rather than using the traditional stool and sill. I don't like the look, but a lot of people accept them. Make them on the bench and nail them to the framing. Unless they also have steel framing, then we hang them with foam adhesive (same stuff they use for hanging drywall).

   You can go crazy attaching shim stock to the trim (the window frame is NEVER flush with the wall), but that's a required step. Mount it slightly proud, then work it flush with a plane and a sanding block.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario