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A while back…a few questions were asked about the stuff. Here’s a recent job I finished using TrimTec. The bump-out was re-sided with it. All the flat 1x is TrimTec….the panels under the windows are hardi board. Hope this file converts. Jeff
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Everything(including) from the soffit/fascia down is plastic. Aside from the 1/4" cement board as flat panels under the windows. The top band had a routed detail on bottom edge that is repeated on the small panel scotia trim. The bay angles are mitered.....which is a real pain with this stuff.
The far right hand 6' window...as it returns back to the house...was added. A 6'x6' addition! 2 windows. But it makes the house now look complete. Jeff
*Jeff, I've used trimtec, now known as Aztec (or something like that) also for the same thing you did on that job I was a sub on. one thing I notice though is the stuff marks up real easy. it gouges easier than pine I think. what's your opinion.
*I didn't make any new gouges.....but for something that's a manmade product...you think it could be shipped without defects/gouges.....maybe they happened on the way from the yard to the job. One thing I didn't line about it....aside from the toxic dust that static clung to everything.....was the mitered bay detail. Couldn't pop a few finish nails to pull the slight gab in to perfection....found that out after a carefully placed mail blew out a chunk...which was repaired with bondo! The rest were just sanded over and laft for the painter to caulk. On smaller pieces it would have been easier.....but those big/flat miters were a pain. In the end...it's up...looks great....and should last forever. Jeff
*how much does this stuff cost? and do you have to paint it?? Is the look similar to fibercement trim boards?
*it ain't cheap, if I remember correctly it's about 45 bucks for an 18' length (that's what it comes in by the way) and that was for the 1 x 6 size. Jeff's right about that miter blowing out too. you have to predrill if you're working close to the edge or with thinner (ripped) pieces. you don't have to paint it but it only comes in white. according to the manufacturer it takes latex real well. don't know I've never painted it. the look is the sheen of a PVC pipe pretty much because that's what it's made of, PVC.
*What Steve said. Could only get 18' lengths. Widths just like wood. 1x4,6,8,10 and 12. Nominal widths. I think a 1x10 was like $80 or $90. Supposed to take paint. We used it at first because they wanted white...and it was gonna be unpainted....but by the time it was nailed....the decision was made that to hide the nail holes it would get painted. I wasn't gonna be involved in the painting....I was just told to palm sand the whole thing...to roughen the surface a bit...so it would take paint better. Don't know if paint would adhere or not......but since it was already close to the color they wanted......the decision was made to wait till spring...and warmer weather...to paint. The look is smooth/flat. No texture. Slight sheen to it.....like Steve said......schedule 40 pipe!
*Jeff, I nailed the suff with 10d galv finish nails then sunk 'em. just put a dab of white silicone and you won't even see the nails. blends in real well.Most of the supply houses will have samples you can get. get a sample or two and play with it. supposedly you can glue it with pvc dope to fasten cornerboards together that will NEVER separate. I haven't tried it yet but plan to when the opportunity presents itself.
*If this stuff is made from the same stuff as PVC pipe then why does it cost so much?? It seems like big profit margins are beign made.
*It's the extra labor costs. Do you know how hard they have to work to get all that black printing off and flatten those pipes out?
*Steve...we shot it on with the trim gun. The plan was to glue the mitered corners with the PVC glue......clear primer...not purple!...but in the cold weather....it just didn't set up. Like till the next day. Then I tried weldbond....which worked well enough.....set faster than the PVC glue...but didn't tack. I bought a tube of 2 part epoxy that said it worked on corian...figured that's just another high densite plastic...and that worked even better....but too expensive to use all over. Only the miters got that. And even the epoxy didn't tack immediately. That's where the "extra" nail holes came into play! Jeff
*I couldn't find galvies for my trim gun where I was and wasn't about to drive an hour to go get some. I had a box of the "old fashioned" hit 'em with a hammer galv finish nails in the truck so voila!
*Jeff, Wouldn't polyurethane caulking have worked just as well without the hassle of the other adhesives ?Who is filling nail holes with silicone caulk ? Do you have it in for all painters ?
*I was told by my suppliers that this material had a tendency to expand and contract greatly due to temperature changes. What has been your experience. To date that info has scared me off even trying this product. I could find many uses for it here in the Northeast (close enough to Long Island Sound to see it from the right vista)...I seem to be always replacing garage door casings that touch the cement, skirt boards that are too close to the wood chips (no matter how many times you tell the homeowner to tell the landscaper)...etc.Bill
*i Who is filling nail holes with silicone caulk ? Do you have it in for all painters ? No just some painters.I used silicone on this particular job because the owner has no intention of painting it and it matches the white vinyl siding they had as well. maybe years from now if they ever reside it will be an issue but this was new construction. then they can call me and I will gladly address the issue. who knows by then there will be something new on the market anyway.