I’m in the process of putting in a home network system. I was looking for the best way to install a receptacle box. I found a great way to do it so it will look good in Rex Cauldwell’s “Wiring a House.” In Ch.9, pg 168 he describes how to make a cut-in box by using a standard box and not the premade cut-in boxes that use the ears for support. You cut the hole, insert the box, and secure it with nails or screws from the inside of the box to the stud. The only problem is the box is too small to fit a hammer in to nail it, and even with screwdrivers made for tight places it’s hard to get a screw in. This is proving to be harder than I anticipated even with appropriate tools. Does anyone know the best way to nail or screw the box (which is a single box) to the stud, or do I need to use a wider receptacle?
As long as I’m here does anyone know of a good book or website for installing a home network system for audio, video, internet, cameras, stereo, etc…? I’m doing the cable TV now, which is pretty staight forward, but for printer, fax, and everything else I want to make sure I get it right.
Thanks!
Replies
Get a long 1/8" bit and drill before you nail. Put the box in place and drill where needed. Get a punch about 8" long and tap them in.
Or, get some hex head screws and a 1/4 drive ratchet.
Joe H
Yikes! U thought we eliminated those nail things. What you do is drill a couple of 3/15" holes in the side of the box towards the rear. Then insert your box and use genuine drywall screws. Or you could even use pointy tipped, modified wafer head sheet metal screws, just to please Puffin.
There are 6" long + bis available as well as a Milwaukee right angle device for about ~$23. Ask your knowledgeable Tool Crib sales associate [i.e. "clerk].
~Peter
Excellence is its' own punishment.
Yea, I use drywall screws a lot . Wasnt a big deal til Piffin reccomended them . Or was it him ? :)
Tim Mooney
Use Caddy Fastener plate mounting brackets by Erico.
Cut the hole and put the bracket in with your fingers and drive on.
Part # is MP1.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I've shot them in witha framing gun..if that helps. Only on blue plastic..tho.
I also get those blue nail on boxes. I remove the nails, nip off the nail tabs with visegrips and run drwall screws from the inside of the box.
They now make a plastic box that is specifically made to attch from the inside. Saw it in FHB, JLC, or somewhere...
Why not use the remodel boxes?
Old work box. Cut it in anywhere you like in the drywall. Cut the back off with a hacksaw. These work about as well as the other options.
Caddy makes steel plates, MP-1 (single gang) and MP-2 (double) we call them 'Caddy boxes' even though they are not boxes, that allow you to cut a hole in existing drywall or plaster wall and gives you a place to land the cover plate screws. Makes a nice installation if done properly.
Arlington, maybe Carlon, makes a plastic version of the 'Caddy box' that I have heard good things about. Never used one.
If you know where the stud is you can use a nail up plastic box in a pinch. Here again I usually cut the back off of boxes that are being used for telephone, cable or other low voltage lines. Cut a hole, try to get it tight to limit the amount of patching, with one edge tight against the stud. In this situation I hacksaw of the nails and nail holder wings off to limit the size of the hole needed. I hold the box in the tight hole and against the stud and shoot in a couple of drywall screws through the side of the box into the stud.
A 6" extension or driver bit allows you to get the drill almost flat against the wall and the screws in about 3/4" back from the front of the box. A trick is to take an awl and punch two holes, from the outside about where I want them. This gives your screws a hole to sit in so they don't skate as you set them. The plastic boxes are tapered so the side next to the stud will be flush and the other side a little shy of flush.
edited for syntax
Edited 1/7/2004 10:24:58 PM ET by 4Lorn1
I found a "design" problem with Carlon backless LV old work boxes. I torn of the first one, but was able to get it to work. Then a couple of weeks later I used on again and forgot about the problem and had to take it back and get a new one.
It is the same design as regular old work box, but missing the back section and a bit of the side. The wing is suppose to swivel into place and catch on the side and then tighten up as you screw it in.
On the LV version the wing will swing around part the way and then catch on the edge at a werid angle. Then as you tighten the screw the wing just get twisted and starts tearing off.
I held the wind and turned the screw about one turn before I placed the box and then it worked fine.
Your tips are a great help to me as I wire a 1200 sq ft addition on to a 480 sq ft cabin.
I think I've got it figured out how to modify standard plastic nail boxes so they'll work on a plywood faced interior shear wall that will be covered with 1/2" sheetrock In this case I have access to the studs on the other side, but something I've always wondered about with old work boxes:
Once you've got the old work box secured in the sheet rock and the cable fished through...why does the inspector generally OK on the clamping function of the built-in plastic box cable clamps alone, with the cable actually just dangling in the stud space...while he generally insists on a staple within 8" of the box on new work? Something doesn't add up there in my mind.
Edited 1/8/2004 3:28:31 PM ET by johnnyd
The code specifically make allowances for none stabling in retro fitting cases.
That leads to the question is why is it OK not to fasten the cables in one case why does the code require it in new work?
Pure guess work on it but I suspect these two reasons.
a) They figure that the very very safety decrease in safety by not having them fastened is GREATLY outweighted by the increased safety of having the improved wiring.
b) The wiring is protected by the finished walls and not likely to be snagged by other contstruction work as would cables running on open studs.
How about the inspector aware of a nice little 110 lightnin rod so close to the conductor screws on the inside of your "safe spot" for juice the little blue box screwed on from the inside? i think i know a guy who tripped a breaker that way on the hot install
Had to read your post a dozen times to cypher out a meaning. I have translated old english and the handwriting of doctors more easily.
I take it that you are concerned about the receptacle screws coming into contact with the mounting screws run in from inside the box. If the drywall screws are seated properly, easier if you are at the shallow angle made possible by using a long extension on the drill and keeping the screws as close to the front of the box as possible, they extend into the box very little. Flush, to maybe, 1/8" is common.
A standard back strap device, once the screws are started, cannot shift enough sideways to make contact. Give it a try some time. In the unlikely event they make contact the screws are fairly well insulated by being surrounded by the stud, I would prefer them to be grounded so that they would trip the breaker, and would seem to be unlikely to cause a problem. I have had no problems and no commentary from inspectors. I suppose I could run a ground wire under each screw head to ground it if any objection was made.
Of course this discussion was about low voltage and communications circuits so there are no requirements or worries about this case. For line voltage devices an old work box would be a better choice than trying to use a nail-up box where it was not designed to be used.
An alternate, justified where the drywall is too tender to be mounted to with a conventional old work setup, would be to use a steel box with mounting screws shot through the side. In this case the the box would be grounded, code, and would ground the mounting screws.
Of course there are often better options for line voltage wiring. Foaming them in works well in even the softest drywall. A fastener through the back to the opposite side of the wall is another option that can be accommodated in some cases.
wow ...
I don't think I've ever read more about how to reinvent the wheel ...
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
no kiddin. i think i need a high carbohydrate beer or something!
ry
i think it's just a battle for fun at this point, to see who gives in.
actually ....
if ya get a real long c-clamp ... and can stretch it to hit the closest door jamb adjecent to the box ... maybe U could squeese in a roofing nail?
or ....
nah ...
no one'd want a remodeling box in there .....
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Good one Jeff. This has set me to thinkin'. Perhaps you could get some balloons, fill 'em with helium, attach 'em to the back and upper parts of a stripped down box and squash it all in there. That oughta hold it for a while. Better yet, cut out the sheetrock, nail the box in place nice and snug , patch the rock back and spackle it up. What a concept! Or get some gang box glue, I think I saw some at the Depot next to the left handed toggle switches.