FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Truss Question for Boss

frontiercc2 | Posted in General Discussion on October 31, 2008 01:11am

Typical 1987 Split level. 2×4 walls. Trussed roof.

Question is how to determine for sure if the trusses are bearing on the outside walls making the center wall that the wife wants modified non-load bearing?

The trusses are 5/12 pitch trusses spanning 24 feet from front wall to back wall. No scissor or anything fancy. Frames in 2x4s. The wall separating the kitchen from Living room runs perpendicular to the trusses at the center of the bottom cord. Are all trusses designed to spread the load to the tails? I assume that it is safe to proceed but want to be sure. No loads above other than the roof load.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. FastEddie | Oct 31, 2008 02:05am | #1

    Is the center wall continuous from one end of the house to the other, broken up only with doorways?  Then my bet is that it is load bearing.

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. Piffin | Nov 09, 2008 08:58pm | #14

      It shouldn't be. If they were using it as load bearing there was no reason to use trusses at all for only a 24' wide house. It is easy to span 12' stick framing. Why would you even think it is? 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. FastEddie | Nov 09, 2008 09:59pm | #16

        My thought is that if there is a continuous wall down thye center of the house, with headers over each door or opening, it's there for a reason.  For a 2 floor house I would suspect that wall is there so the second floor joists don't have to be full width, or rated to span the width of the house."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

        "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

  2. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Oct 31, 2008 02:54am | #2

    If you can stick your head up in the attic space and take a photo or two of one truss, then post them, you'll get more accurate answers. 

  3. arcflash | Oct 31, 2008 03:22am | #3

    Trusses nowadays are designed to send the roof load to exterior walls. Chances are, your trusses are doing the same. However, over time the house could have settled enough to where that partition is actually carrying a significant load. Pictures would help, and even a floor plan might help. Also, how close is the interior wall to an exterior one? Are there any joints with gusset plates in the bottom chords?

    Even if that wall carries a load, alterations to that wall aren't out of the question. What type of alterations are you considering? If anything, we might ask the right questions for Boss.

    1. frontiercc2 | Oct 31, 2008 03:37am | #4

      No gusset plates in bottom chord. The wall that divides the two rooms and runs perpendicular to the bottom chords has one wide doorway (7') opening from the LR into the DR. The wall splits the bottom cord exactly in half (12' on each side) I will try to get a picture this weekend. As for floorplan. Picture a rectangle 24' wide by 22' long. The recatangle is split down the middle of the 24' dimension to make two rooms 12' wide by 22' long. The trusses span the 24' dimension. The truss is of ordinary design. There is a vertical piece from the peak to the bottom cord. Then two angled pieces from the bottom chord to the top chords- 1 one each side. Like an inverted "W"Like I said- I'll try to get a picture this weekend. I thought about checking the opening with a stud finder to see if there is a header in there. And I know that even if it is load bearing, I can do this. But the design (and execution) is MUCH easier for DIY if there is no load to engineer for. Don't want to remove the wall entirely, just open the kitchen to the living room. So I could always design it with a bulkhead and columns for support.Edited 10/30/2008 8:38 pm ET by frontiercc2

      Edited 10/30/2008 8:41 pm ET by frontiercc2

      1. arcflash | Oct 31, 2008 03:50am | #5

        It doesn't sound like it is LB. But, just assume that it is for now. If the ceiling isn't textured, just shore it up with temporary studs. There isn't even a reason to get crazy with the fasteners, especially if you use 2x6's. Fasten the top plate ever so often, and shoot a couple of screws in each stud. With a 2x6, 24" spacing would be just fine. Make sure you extend the shoring several feet past the wall that is getting moved. Or, you could go stud by stud, until you get to your header, and shore several trusses past where your header goes. There are many ways to do it, and none of them are that hard. If you like what you do, you might actually have a little fun doing it.

         

      2. cliffy | Oct 31, 2008 04:07am | #6

        Go wild, 24 feet wide, that wall is just a partition.

        Have a good day.

        Cliffy

        1. Piffin | Nov 09, 2008 09:01pm | #15

          ditto 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      3. atrident | Oct 31, 2008 06:14am | #8

          Is there a header at the 7 foot opening?

      4. Tyr | Oct 31, 2008 09:12am | #9

        I have a similar layout. No loadbearing by inside walls. Totally freespan. If the attic is used for storage, etc. then bottom chord is beefed up. Does't sound like the attic is used. Designed up a garage where client wanted to use attic. If used it needs to support the junk stored there, and flooring weight and your weight. You don't have a problem pulling your wall. One house with an unused attic that has a lightly framed ceiling (cut roof) was improved considerably by running 3/8 all thread from custom attachment (nuts welded to nailing strap) to similar attachment in ceiling joists. It was just to improve structure because we had to have people up there for additional wiring, etc. Tyr

      5. Framer | Nov 09, 2008 03:38am | #12

        Without getting someone in there to look at it, just put a header in and you will be safe. If not pay someone to come out and look. It will cost you to pay someone probably the same amount you would spend in material to put a header in.

         Joe Carola

  4. oops | Oct 31, 2008 04:08am | #7

    If it is a truss, a real and honest to goodness  truss, then any of the walls and or partitions below should not be load bearing. A 24'-0" span is not a long span at all for a truss and I can't see any reason for any intermediate supports. Just make sure it is a truss.

  5. BossHogLives | Nov 08, 2008 03:18pm | #10

    I got your email this morning with the picture in it. I created a new profile so I could get in here today and post.

    And I have a few questions.

    I have never seen a 24' long truss with only one web joint on the bottom chord. The picture you sent me was of a 20' truss, and it's commom with a truss of that span. A 24' truss would typically have webs that looked like a "W".

    What kind of live loads for snow do you typically have in Maryland?

    Can you take a look in the attic and give me an idea what size plate is on the heel of the truss? (On the end, out at the wall) It will likely be about 3" by 5" or so.

    I don't recall ever seing a 24' span roof truss that was NOT designed for a clear span. But stranger things have happened. So hearing what your loading requirements are and the plate size at the heel will give me some clues.

    1. frontiercc2 | Nov 09, 2008 12:54am | #11

      Boss-Just climbed down out of the attic. The trusses do indeed look just like the drawing I sent you. The plate at the center of the bottom chord is 5" by 6". I can't really get out to the eaves to see the heel plate. With the shallow roof pitch, I don't fit.It appears that the bottom chord is continuous, but hard to tell while holding a flashlight and standing on my head. Very dark up there so I could not get a picture~the camera didn't cooperate.The trusses on my recent addition were spec'd for 30psf Live Load for the top chords. The Dead load spec'd on the drawings is 10psf. I assume the trusses in question were designed for the same live and dead loads.

      1. frammer52 | Nov 09, 2008 08:26pm | #13

        Ron has been banned from the site.

        Do what Joe the framer told you, and you can't go wrong!

        1. Framer | Nov 09, 2008 11:12pm | #18

          When in doubt, header it out.............;-)

           Joe Carola

          1. frammer52 | Nov 10, 2008 02:47am | #19

            Bingo!!!!!!!>G<

  6. brucet9 | Nov 09, 2008 10:11pm | #17

    Trusses often do not bear on interior partition walls. In California such partition walls must be framed a little shorter than the outside walls or have 1x4 instead of 2x4 for the cap plate. Presumably the same rules apply in most areas.

    Can you slide something between the trusses and cap plate of that center wall? If so, it is not bearing any load. If it were load bearing, the truss cords should be toe nailed to the cap plate of the wall, same as the outside walls. If you find truss clips connecting the wall to trusses for lateral stability,
    http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/t_clips.html
    then it is definitely not a load bearing wall.

    BruceT

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Picture-Perfect Pergola

Built from locally sawn hemlock, this functional outdoor feature uses structural screws and metal connectors for fast, sturdy construction.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade
  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data