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tuckpointing on limestone block

hammer | Posted in General Discussion on October 11, 2002 07:30am

I’m looking at doing some tuckpointing on a limestone exterior on a 1945 story and ahalf. Since some of the limestone is delaminating I would like to color the mortor to match the limestone and also match the older mortor. Any ideas on coloring mortor?

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  1. eborg2 | Oct 11, 2002 09:20pm | #1

    First figure out why the limestone is delaminating.  Got moisture wicking up into the stone?  Plugged weep holes? Brown stains?  Deicing salts in contact with stone?  If this is the case, what makes you think mortar will stick for any length of time?

    Let's assume none of the above are true.  There is no way you'll get the "sugar cube" texture of cut limestone with mortar.  Even using white portland cement and careful finishing you probably won't come close on the color either.  There are products available that come pretty close (epoxy based) but I think they still stand out like a sore thumb, even on fresh cut limestone.  Weathering only makes them stand out more.

    How about some more information on exactly what the problems are and how close a match you really need.  A picture perhaps?

    Eric

    1. hammer | Oct 11, 2002 09:57pm | #2

      Eric,

      The delaminating is caused by damaged flashing located on top of the stone. The stone only covers the first floor and the gable ends of the roof is setback (stick built) approximately 6". I've corrected the flashing problem and I don't expect anymore damage to the stone... I have found additional bricks at the site that are in good shape and could possibly replace the bad ones. All bricks are different lengths.

       

      The main concern with new mortor, what I've used, is it's chalk white color and the existing color on the house is a weathered gray. Could a pigmented grout be added?

       

      Bruce

      1. calvin | Oct 12, 2002 02:34pm | #3

        A good brick/block supply will have a dry mortar sample of their dyes.  If you can find a shade that's close, you can fine tune the color on site.  Measure all things carefully on a small test batch so you can reproduce the proper amounts when you get the match.  This is time consuming because a little dye goes along way and you need to let it dry to give it the final test.  Best of luck.__________________________________________

        Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        http://www.quittintime.com/

         

      2. eborg2 | Oct 14, 2002 03:01pm | #4

        NONE,

        Restoration experts will tell you that performing a little detective work on the mortar is the key to matching old mortar.  One of the keys is to identifiy the sand source and match it as close as possible.  Second, you need to mix some test batches and let them cure to determine how they'll look when you're done.  Also, using the same mix components and proportions, lime, cement, etc. will help to increase the likelyhood that your tuckpointing will match as it weathers and not be too hard for the stone.  Finishing is also a concern.  Tooling the joints early will leave a "whiter" joint.  Tooling late leaves a darker joint.  If you're tuckpointing the whole structure, color is not as great a concern.

        There's a lot of information out there if your willing to look for it.

        Eric

  2. User avater
    Mongo | Oct 15, 2002 08:24am | #5

    Take a gander at this regarding matching mortar:

    http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=19273.6

    If it's not the sand lending the color t the mortar, then you can try colored mortar, or coloring the mortar on your own.

    A restoration pro may be able to point you in the right direction, preventing a blemished wall...

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