Replies

1. 
   HRoerig | Aug 05, 2003 01:51am | #1

   BC--

   About 3 weeks ago I posted a message asking for recommendations for my kitchen/dining room floor, which is 2-1/4" red oak strip.  I got a number of strong recommedations for the Waterlox tung oil blend, and that's what I ended up using.  My DW wanted a gloss finish this time, so I applied 2 coats of their sealer/finish which has a satin sheen, then 2 coats of their high gloss (which used to be called gym finish--and it looks like it!)  The floor came out looking beautiful, and the product is incredibly forgiving to work with.  No sanding between coats (unless you need to remove imperfections), and readily repairable as you noted.  Leaves you with a hand-rubbed look rather than the "plastic coat" look of many urethanes.  I'm very pleased with the product and the results--of course now I have to see how well it holds up!  Here is the link for the Waterlox tung oil blend:

   http://www.waterlox.com/products.cfm?categoryid=1

   I bought mine through the distributor they list on their webpage, you can also buy it direct from Waterlox.  I could not find it in stock at any store in Denver--only in quart cans.

   Good luck!

   Howard

1. 
   ClevelandEd | Aug 06, 2003 01:55am | #7

   my ... floor ...  is .... red oak strip.    ..... I applied 2 coats of ... (Waterlox) ... sealer/finish which has a satin sheen, then 2 coats of their high gloss (which used to be called gym finish--

   Would you feel comfortable applying the same materials to a softer wood floor? 

1. 
   deblacksmith | Aug 06, 2003 05:17am | #8

   I very happy with Waterlox but don't have a lot of service time on it yet.  I have used it on both our red oak hardwood floor and on our yellow pine stairs.  Those stairs to the basement our getting a lot of hard traffic and it is holding up well and looks great.  Waterlox recomends 4 coats for the pine vs. 3 for the hardwood.  It is a very easy finish to work with.  I did the stairs myself, but had to really push my hardwood floor guy to use it on the oak.  Wish I had done it all myself.  I obtain my Waterlox direct from them via their website.

   (added)  I forgot -- I like this stuff well enough that I am using it for all of the pine trim in this timber frame house.  I do not find that it darken very much, and I like the color on pine (and oak) better than the yellow I get from poly.  It is not "water white" like lacquer but I like the result very well.

   deblacksmith

   Edited 8/5/2003 10:21:39 PM ET by deblacksmith

2. 
   Piffin | Aug 05, 2003 03:02am | #2

   If the tung doesn't appeal to her in colour, it is because she likes the plastic look, IMO. As for water topping over oil, Sounds goofy to me but what do I know. I'd want her to prove that it works and looks good before I'd count on it.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   diddidit | Aug 05, 2003 07:43pm | #5

   How does tung oil compare to boiled linseed oil, in terms of color, durability, water resistance, etc.? I'm considering finishes for a pine floor that currently has a light application of linseed oil.

   didBlah, yada, whatever, Hi how are you today

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 06, 2003 12:25am | #6

   They're more or less compatable with each other. The Tung is a little darker and more amber than linseed. Tung was the prefered base a hundred and some years ago for boat painting aropund here so it must be OK with water.

   neither of these are "waterproof" though in the way that poly is. They don't set up on top of the wood and skin over. The oil fits down into the wood, wiggling down into the pores and cuddling up to the wood cells..

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Davo304 | Aug 05, 2003 09:13am | #3

   Waterlox....number 1 in my book. I think they still manufacture the gym floor finish as well as the satin....least, I think so.

   Davo

1. 
   edwardh1 | Aug 05, 2003 06:38pm | #4

   can waterlox be applied over an existing tung oil finish?

4. 
   RichBeckman | Aug 06, 2003 05:19am | #9

   I have a small amount of experience with the Waterlox in the past year (on oak and on maple). All of the above I agree with.

   I haven't found anything on the can about this (doesn't mean it isn't there), but the web site notes that it takes seven days for a full cure.

   Rich Beckman

   Another day, another tool.