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two ignorant plumbing questions

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 18, 2005 01:56am

I need to tee into a 3″ pvc sewer line that is buried underground and cannot be moved. How do I cut the thing and slip the tee in without cutting it too short? Is there a trick or a special gizmo for such problems?

The tee will carry another drain line that will service a toilet, a shower, a bath sink and a kitchen sink. Can I vent it with one of those air mixing valve thingys?

Thanks

 

 

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  1. User avater
    Sphere | Feb 18, 2005 03:07am | #1

    2 ways. First one is a saddle tee..like gas line installs use, it clamps a clamshell around the pipe and a fitting cuts it's own opening. Probly pretty pricey, and maybe not a DIY.

    second way is use slip coupling on the ends and short stubs of original diam pipe. Slip or repair coups are made without the center ridge..you can sometimes, slide them back enough to fit the joint, but man ya gotta be quick, once the glue is on.

     

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..

    1. Queequeg | Feb 18, 2005 03:36am | #2

      SPHERE, thanks.

      I just realized I have Peter Hemp's Plumbing a house on the shelf right  here in my office. I found the section on splicing DWV, and got my answer.

      But what about those vent thingys? Will they vent a toilet? I don't want to run a new vent line outside this re-model if I can help it.

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Feb 18, 2005 03:48am | #3

        those vent thingies? all up to your local guy who inspects the thingy..I have never saw (seen) one on a vent other than a sink..your experiances may vary.Gut feeling? NOPE.I believe a terlet at 1.6 gal per flush, in a min. 3" DVW line, exceeds the Stuter valve's cap. ( could be a Studer) but none the less, not designed for that size pipolini...more for 1.5, or 1.25..under cab situ.if ya don't have an inspector, .............don't ask me. LOL 

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..

      2. calvin | Feb 18, 2005 04:18am | #4

        I've been told no to a cheater vent on a toilet, but a brief look here seems it might be possible.  You do the careful reading.

          http://www.oatey.com/aav_public/why_vent.htmlRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        Quittin' Time

        1. User avater
          Sphere | Feb 18, 2005 04:21am | #5

          Would you second my opinion that a "no hub" or "Fernco" is a no go for underground?...I think the hose clamps would fail...just MHO.. 

          Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

          Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..

          1. calvin | Feb 18, 2005 04:30am | #6

            I second that emotion............Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

          2. User avater
            Sphere | Feb 18, 2005 04:58am | #10

            Thanks Smokey.. 

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..

        2. HeavyDuty | Feb 18, 2005 04:39am | #7

          I've been told no to a cheater vent on a toilet

          Never cheat on your toilet or it'll not be true to you.

        3. Queequeg | Feb 18, 2005 04:49am | #8

          Thanks for the link.  I am going with a 20 DFU Oatey air emission valve.  let it be written.

          I thought those hose clamps were stainless. I guess stainless also fails. I will look into the PVC coupling then. No inspection- this is my own house and I'm doing all the work (uh oh)

          1. calvin | Feb 18, 2005 04:58am | #9

            you're welcome.

            Follow the directions, on the sinks I've used them on it was a must to keep them accessible and not in a vacuum (in a sealed space).

            Spere and I were thinking possible movement or pressure on the pipe I think, rather than using the hard connection of a glued fitting.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

          2. User avater
            RichBeckman | Feb 18, 2005 07:19am | #12

            "I am going with a 20 DFU Oatey air emission valve."I would just point out that when you sell the house, an inspector might notice and tell the buyer that it is a problem.....and if local code does not support its use......Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

          3. Queequeg | Feb 18, 2005 04:04pm | #13

            Thanks Rich. Local code allows them on sinks, but I have never seen one on a toilet. At any rate re-sale is not on the horizon right now.....I just want to put in a tenant.

          4. stonefever | Feb 18, 2005 06:11pm | #14

            I just want to put in a tenant.

             

            The tenant has a venting issue?

            Now how does that get installed?

             

            Edited 2/18/2005 10:12 am ET by stonefever

  2. AXE | Feb 18, 2005 05:32am | #11

    Studor makes a big vent, a Maxivent.  It's 3" pipe I think.  I have one on my main plumbing stack since I tore the roof off and put on a second story and haven't gotten around to reconnecting stack to roof vent.

    At any rate, never had a problem with any toilet and the MaxiVent is directly above one of the toilets.

    Only problem I have is the wash machine draining in the basement pushes air back up through the toilets every now and then.  Maybe once every couple of months.  Not sure why it doesn't do it everytime, but it doesn't and I have too much else to worry about right now.

    MERC.

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