Replies

1. 
   CAGIV | Mar 25, 2004 05:26am | #1

   I don't know anything about the metalic paint, but I'd go with bondo or one of the similiar two part fillers you can find at any hardware store to fill the holes.

   

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 05:57am | #4

   "....but I'd go with bondo or one of the similiar two part fillers you can find at any hardware store to fill the holes."

   CAG,

   As a wood filler "Bondo" brand polyester is cheap, but does shrink quite a bit over time. Better choice would be Freeman "TUF-Fil" http://www.freemansupply.com/cgi-bin/ksearch.pl?terms=tuf-fil&Submit=Submit

   Used primarily in the pattern industry, it is really good stuff.

   Jon 

   Edited 3/24/2004 11:04 pm ET by WorkshopJon

2. 
   WayneL5 | Mar 25, 2004 05:31am | #2

   You can fill the screw heads with wood filler.  Make sure the screws are tight, first.  You should prime after sanding or the wood filler will show a different texture than the surrounding wood because it will absorb the topcoat differently.

3. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 25, 2004 05:37am | #3

   I would also make sure the screw heads are seated well below the surface. Whatever you pick as a filler, a real thin coat of it over a screw head is unlikely to be very robust.

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 06:00am | #5

   "Whatever you pick as a filler, a real thin coat of it over a screw head is unlikely to be very robust."

   Dunc,

   It completely depends on what you pick as a filler.  Yes some fillers are ####, but some are awesome.

   Jon

4. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 06:03am | #6

   "They primed them, and now I want to paint one gold and one silver.  (I am copying two tables that I saw that were done in gold and silver leaf.)  Can someone recommend a good metallic paint?  Do I have the same finish options "

   Joce,

   You failed to say what they primed them with.  Without that info, it is imposible to render any advice.

   Jon

1. 
   jocelyng | Mar 25, 2004 04:05pm | #7

   Well, I assume it was a water-based primer.  They didn't say.  It isn't terribly opaque, if that is any indicator.

   Jocelyn

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 04:18pm | #8

   "I assume it was a water-based primer."

   joce,

   Well, if it is, that limits your finish choices, as most solvent based paints will act like a paint remover.  Lacquers are the worst at doing this, but a bunch of others will too.

   Are you looking for a rougher "rustic" type finish, or something like the finish on a car.  Both can be done, but are done quite a bit differently.  Also, metallic finishes are best applied by spraying.

   Jon

   Edited 3/25/2004 9:25 am ET by WorkshopJon

1. 
   jocelyng | Mar 25, 2004 04:28pm | #9

   Something in between rustic and high polished like a car.  The tables that I ahem, copied, were covered in silver and gold leaf.  I can't afford the time or cost of that, so I opted to paint.  Also, I could prime again if that would be better.  If I prime over what they did, should I use an oil-based primer?

   Thanks much.

   Jocelyn

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 05:07pm | #10

   "If I prime over what they did, should I use an oil-based primer?"

   I presume you don't have access to spray equipment, so before you start repriming, go find some spray can finishes that you like, and test them in an area of the table that is easily resanded if they prove incompatible.

   There are inert barrier coatings available, 2 part (catalyzed polyester primer is one) that could laid down, but I tend to think you don't want to go down that road.

   BTW, oil based primers will be eaten away by solvent based paint.

   Jon

2. 
   jocelyng | Mar 25, 2004 05:32pm | #11

   Spray versus paint from a can?  I thought I would use a liquid so I would have more control...I saw a product called Modern Masters.  Are you familiar with that product?

   Jocelyn

3. 
   WorkshopJon | Mar 25, 2004 06:28pm | #12

   "I saw a product called Modern Masters.  Are you familiar with that product?"

   Joce,

   No, I am not

   IMO, if you know what you're doing, spraying is the way to go.  FYI, True enamel based paints are less likely to attack an underlying finish.

   An easy way to tell if one is one, is a long drying time, ie more than 6 hours, they don't really dry per say, the reducing agents evaporate out, then they catalyze (molecularly crosslink) using the oxygen in the air. 

   Again, experiment.

   Jon