Hello,
I had two coffee tables built by local carpenters. They primed them, and now I want to paint one gold and one silver. (I am copying two tables that I saw that were done in gold and silver leaf.) Can someone recommend a good metallic paint? Do I have the same finish options with metallic paint as I do with regular paint? If so, what finish should I use. I would prefer to apply the paint rather than spraying it on.
The second question is this: rather than use finish nails, they screwed some of the parts together with Phillips head screws. Can I fill the screw heads will putty, sand and paint over them?
Thanks much,
Jocelyn
Replies
I don't know anything about the metalic paint, but I'd go with bondo or one of the similiar two part fillers you can find at any hardware store to fill the holes.
"....but I'd go with bondo or one of the similiar two part fillers you can find at any hardware store to fill the holes."
CAG,
As a wood filler "Bondo" brand polyester is cheap, but does shrink quite a bit over time. Better choice would be Freeman "TUF-Fil" http://www.freemansupply.com/cgi-bin/ksearch.pl?terms=tuf-fil&Submit=Submit
Used primarily in the pattern industry, it is really good stuff.
Jon
Edited 3/24/2004 11:04 pm ET by WorkshopJon
You can fill the screw heads with wood filler. Make sure the screws are tight, first. You should prime after sanding or the wood filler will show a different texture than the surrounding wood because it will absorb the topcoat differently.
I would also make sure the screw heads are seated well below the surface. Whatever you pick as a filler, a real thin coat of it over a screw head is unlikely to be very robust.
"Whatever you pick as a filler, a real thin coat of it over a screw head is unlikely to be very robust."
Dunc,
It completely depends on what you pick as a filler. Yes some fillers are ####, but some are awesome.
Jon
"They primed them, and now I want to paint one gold and one silver. (I am copying two tables that I saw that were done in gold and silver leaf.) Can someone recommend a good metallic paint? Do I have the same finish options "
Joce,
You failed to say what they primed them with. Without that info, it is imposible to render any advice.
Jon
Well, I assume it was a water-based primer. They didn't say. It isn't terribly opaque, if that is any indicator.
Jocelyn
"I assume it was a water-based primer."
joce,
Well, if it is, that limits your finish choices, as most solvent based paints will act like a paint remover. Lacquers are the worst at doing this, but a bunch of others will too.
Are you looking for a rougher "rustic" type finish, or something like the finish on a car. Both can be done, but are done quite a bit differently. Also, metallic finishes are best applied by spraying.
Jon
Edited 3/25/2004 9:25 am ET by WorkshopJon
Something in between rustic and high polished like a car. The tables that I ahem, copied, were covered in silver and gold leaf. I can't afford the time or cost of that, so I opted to paint. Also, I could prime again if that would be better. If I prime over what they did, should I use an oil-based primer?
Thanks much.
Jocelyn
"If I prime over what they did, should I use an oil-based primer?"
I presume you don't have access to spray equipment, so before you start repriming, go find some spray can finishes that you like, and test them in an area of the table that is easily resanded if they prove incompatible.
There are inert barrier coatings available, 2 part (catalyzed polyester primer is one) that could laid down, but I tend to think you don't want to go down that road.
BTW, oil based primers will be eaten away by solvent based paint.
Jon
Spray versus paint from a can? I thought I would use a liquid so I would have more control...I saw a product called Modern Masters. Are you familiar with that product?
Jocelyn
"I saw a product called Modern Masters. Are you familiar with that product?"
Joce,
No, I am not
IMO, if you know what you're doing, spraying is the way to go. FYI, True enamel based paints are less likely to attack an underlying finish.
An easy way to tell if one is one, is a long drying time, ie more than 6 hours, they don't really dry per say, the reducing agents evaporate out, then they catalyze (molecularly crosslink) using the oxygen in the air.
Again, experiment.
Jon