I need to run an extra 240 volt outlet for a power tool in my basement off an existing line. In the past I used either BX or Nomex wire with a red outer sheath and red/black wire inside.
Can I use regular wire and mark the ends of the white wire to show its live (since I have a whole spool of it)?
A high-performance single-family home builder shares tips from his early experience with two apartment buildings.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
You can, I did it. Works like a charm, electric don't care if the wire is red or white. Could be against code though.
Oh I know it will work and its safe, and stuff that I did 30 years ago, when I taught myself to wire, probably is sill working fine and is safe, but the stuff I did back then would fail inspection.I wanted to know if this way would pass inspection. Rules keep changing - I got told recently that brass wire nuts with set screws are no longer allowed.
>>>Can I use regular wire and mark the ends of the white wire to show its live (since I have a whole spool of it)?
Yup. Around here we put a bit of black tape on the end to show that it's hot.
Scott.
I might get flamed for this, but here it goes.
Yes you can color code your wire.
What everyone refers to as "electrical tape" is more correctly called "phase tape" & the color of that tape takes precedence over the color of the wire.
It must cover at least 2" of the insulation at each end of the wire.
Yeah I've done that before with 3 way switches and black tape- but not 2"Thanks
The only part I question is the "2 inch" thing.The code says
"a cable assembly ... where the insulation is permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded conductor, by painting or other effective means at its termination, and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than white, gray, or green."Some inspectors are happy with a single wrap of tape, others want the white completely covered wherever it is "visible and accessible".
I imagine there are inspectors who pick a spot in between. Personally I like it to be identified at the termination end and also up close to the base of the cable (so if the end gets cut off it is still identified). I am flexible with whether you tape it in between.
The 2" was from an inspector, I didn't question her.
I know a heck of a lot more about theory and aplication than I ever will about code.
Welcome to the world of inspectors. Her spot in between "where the conductor is visible and accessible" and just the "termination" is 2". I am not sure where she gets that. It may be the AHJs interpretation.
I mainly deal with plumbing inspectors, & I'll tell ya on more than one occasion I have rolled my eyes & thought "where on Earth did you dream that one up".
Now that everyone has said "yes," I'm going to say "no."
First, you have a requirement that wires be in a conduit or cable assembly. Since you 'have a lot of white wire,' it sounds like these are loose, individual wires. They need to be in a conduit of some sort, and most likely you will also need a green wire as a ground. (You are not allowed to re-identify a white wire green).
To be technical, the code forbids you marking a white wire as 'hot,' unless that wire is eilher part of a cable assembly, or larger than #6.
We don't know the current needs for this new outlet, or the size of the existing circuit. Therefor, we can;t speak as to the size of the wire. In general, this new wire has to be at least as large as the existing wire - AND the circuit has to be appropriate for what it's powering. For example, it is both wrong, and dangerous, to tie the clothes dryer into the range circuit.
Finally, most 240v appliances these days - dryers and ranges are prime examples - require four-prong plugs and a neutral wire as well as a ground wire. If that's the case, the old circuit ought to be upgraded as well.
Perhaps my info was not clear - I have a lot of standard nomex 14/2 standard wire, black/white/bare ground - not loose wire.I have a existing 240 circuit - feeding a hard wired 240 volt lathe and plug used to run a plug in 240 volt shaper. The machine I'm adding is a 240 volt small motor/buffer low amperage ( I forget what) 1/6 HP However if you are telling me that I now need a cable with a green ground then it would require a complete rewiring of all the existing.My understanding of the requirement of 4 wires for a dryer is that they use 240 for the heating elmeent and perhaps the main motor, and only 120 for the timer. I have a circuit for that, but its on a different breaker.
From your additional information, it looks like you can use the Romex for the additional receptacle, assuming the #14 wire is large enough.
Is it large enough? I can't tell without looking at the motor nameplates. Motors have their circuits sized by a different set of rules than general use circuits. Odds are, you'll be OK with a 15 amp breaker.
Since Romex is a 'cable assembly,' you can re-identify the white and use the ground wire provided.
If you spray painted or dyed the entire white wire with the appropriate colors, wouldn't that be acceptable?
Technically, No. The NEC, strictly speaking, does not allow for a white wire to be re-identified as a 'hot' or ground wire (apart from the two exceptions I listed).
You are allowed to re-identify a colored wire white - unless it's a green wire.
OK, it's code trivia ... but it's the way the code reads.
Did I miss sumptin?
First you said:
>>To be technical, the code forbids you marking a white wire as 'hot,' unless that wire is eilher part of a cable assembly, or larger than #6.<<
OP is dealing with Romex, i.e., white conductor in question is "part of a cable assembly", and therefore, permitted to be re-identified as "hot".
Then in a later post you said:
>> NEC......does not allow for a white wire to be re-identified as a 'hot' or ground wire (apart from the two exceptions I listed).<<
This is in reference to loose wire in conduit?
Therefore, the restriction does not apply to the OP's question since he is dealing with Romex?
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Yes, you missed a few details- mainly applying the answers to the wrong questions.
It was not clear in the original post that he was using Romex. The OP simply stated he had a lot of wire.
Further, a cable, such as Romex, is one of the two exceptions listed. Painting you dying the entire length of a white wire is not.
Dat's what I thought you were saying, just making sure.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
What I usually do in a basement is run the Romex through the ceiling to a point above the new receptacle.
Then run a length of EMT from the new metal receptacle box up to the ceiling and tie into another metal junction box with the Romex. This complies with code and is neat.