Folks,
We will soon be wrapping our Habitat Westminster project in the white stuff. This seems to take volunteers forever.
Would appreciate hearing about your tips and techniques for running the stuff in a more efficient manner – especially on the second floors.
How do you do it?
ToolBear
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Replies
especially on the second floors.
Pre cut your length....alot easier to handle a 40' roll than a 100' roll.
A bad day at home is still better than a good day at work
I like that idea. Roll the precuts up on poles for handling. Scrolls, but larger.
TB
As far as working efficiently on a 2 story structure, the best thing to do is to apply the housewrap to the walls before the walls are stood up. Leave liberal amounts for overlap, and fold this extra back and tack out of the way with a slap stapler.
That aside, first, Tyvek comes in a number of different widths, including 8', 9', 10' so try to get a width that will cover your 2 story building in 2 passes. apply the housewrap to the house, bottom course first, next course second, etc. If there is going to need to be a narrow strip to fill in the full height put this narrow piece on first at the bottom. The best way to cut a narrow strip is to get a roll that is about 3/4ths (or whatever) used up and cut the rolled up roll into whatever length you need with a skill saw. Use a slap stapler to attach the housewrap, and go back over it with button cap nails. Button caps 2' O.C, both ways, is about tight. Put extra fasteners around the windows and doors, but don't put them so close to the openings that they interfere with the windows flanges, door brick mold, etc. It's easiest to have at least 3 people to install housewrap - one to hold the "beginning" at first, one to roll out the roll, and one (or more) to do the fastening. Cut out the window openings when the windows are installed, to help keep your structure dry in the meantime. The good news about housewrap and HfH is that you only need one skilled person on the "crew" and a bunch of helpers. The skilled person only has to be sure it is detailed correctly.
As far as the housewrap tape, do that after the house is fully wrapped. This is a great job for unskilled volunteers. Use only housewrap tape. I have seen other types of tape, such as duct tape tried, and it doesn't stick for more than a few rainstorms.
The main thing about installing housewrap is to "think like a drop of water" running down the side of the house and detail everything so that water is shed to the outside. Don't depend on the tape to make the seams "waterproof" - lap the housewrap correctly. This includes the proper details above the windows - assuming that the windows have nailing flanges, after they are installed, the housewrap must be proper detailed so that water is shed ON TOP of the flanges. Bituminous flashing tape is the best thing for detailing around windows and doors. There was recently a discussion here about properly detaining around flanged windows.
You said "Tyvek" (the brand) - not sure if you meant that literally, but if so fine. Otherwise, tell whoever is getting the materials that you must use Tyvek, or Typar. These 2 are actually more like a fabric, that is specifically engineered to block liquid moisture and pass vapor. Most other brands/types are actually some type of perforated polyethylene and do a substandard job as a secondary rain screen. If you look closely at the material, you can tell which kind it is - fabric or perforated plastic. Not wanting to get into another Housewrap/builders felt/etc discussion here, but there have been several studies done by building scientists that have conclusively shown that Tyvek and Typar are definitely superior to outer brands.
One last thing - Tyvek brand is recommended to be covered in 3 months or else UV rays degrade the material to where it is less effective. Typar as the advantage of a much longer exposed life.
Edited 1/29/2004 8:35:07 AM ET by DIRISHINME
Thanks for the input. I would like to reprint it in our Crew News zine, which deals with construction techniques and such.
Like the idea of adding it when the 2f walls are on the deck. On this Westminster project we applied the sheer and sheathing with the 2f walls flat for the first time. The previous practice was to wrap the building in scaffolding and do it in the air.
Interesting point on UV degradation. We use Tyvek and the stuff is exposed for weeks. The siding is hardboard and it seems to take forever to run it.
ToolBear
If you want to use it, fine, Go ahead. Actually, I wrote an entire book on such things for our local HfH people. It's about 200 pages. If you are really interested, maybe I can find a way to get you an E-copy. E-mail me. It's a ~5 meg .pdf file. Matt
Last summer, we were putting up Tyvek on a house on the ocean. It should have been easy. We had scafolding. But, a stong breeze came up and I thought we would all para-glide out to sea and wind up in Ireland.
Chip
I can put reefs in my sails, but I have never seen any reef points on a roll of Tyvek <g>. Too much sail; too much wind = unhappy camper.
So, how was Ireland?
ToolBear