Replies

1. 
   pickings | May 04, 2006 06:33pm | #1

   Why not drywall over the ply stair door to bring it flush, then picture frame w/ a "chair rail type" profile that steps down on both sides. 

   Paint panel and trim to match ceil.

2. 
   Tomrocks21212 | May 04, 2006 11:26pm | #2

   Would it be poosible to eliminate the molding entirely? Is the drywall trimmed to the inside of the frame?
   If so, I'm thinking you could drywall the lauan ply, and apply plastic stop bead to the panel and to the existing ceiling rock, leaving a slight reveal between the two beads. It might be less obtrusive than trim.

3. 
   FlaCarpenter | May 05, 2006 03:13am | #3

   So they were installed wrong to begin with. If it is 1/2"-5/8" above the finished drywall than you can build it down and skin it with something nicer. I don't think I would attach the casing to it however. It's likely to get busted up after prolonged opening and closings.

   BTW, for simple installations of pull down staircases in the future, open the box-case it out and then install it. I actually build my picture frame on the ground next to it and then glue the crap out of it. Brad nail it to the frame and let it sit a few hours. Hook the nail gun to your tool belt, walk the stairs up the ladder and nail it up. Move ladder and carefully pull stairs down to add 3" screws and shims. MUCH easier this way and it looks better.

1. 
   jrnbj | May 05, 2006 03:27am | #4

   Darn, why didn't I think of that!!! Three dog bones to you.....that should be SOP for pull-downs....

1. 
   FlaCarpenter | May 05, 2006 03:53am | #5

   Aw crap! I could have made money by submitting that to the magazine! :-)

1. 
   Snort | May 05, 2006 05:24am | #6

   Yep that's the way we always do 'em, too...well almost always. For about six months I'd case them then set them in the hole, then prop sticks from floor to casing before I'd open the door.I had one fall on me while pulling the string...broke my hand. One of the staples that held the jambs together ran out and into the stiffener at the pull end of the door.I always check them for free movement now, and I stopped using the sticks...but I was definitly gun shy for a while...dang hand still hurts when it's cold<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

2. 
   jrnbj | May 06, 2006 07:50pm | #7

   It won't get much use...and I'm thinking, as long as the casing clears the ceiling on the hinge side when the stair's pulled down, why not skin it, with some styro. insul. for good measure, case to the skin, and gasket the casing on the back side to seal to the ceiling....seams like they should be made this way to begin with for, both for looks and for energy efficiency....retrofitting an insulated box that you have to lift out of the way in the attic seems like a total PITA...what do you think?

1. 
   FlaCarpenter | May 07, 2006 01:11am | #8

   The casing won't clear on the hinge side unless you set it inside of the hinge and even with the actual door. What are you going to do with the gap between the framing and the unit? I live in Central Florida and we don't even insulate above our garages. I guess the rising heat knows to stop when it hits above the living space? ;-)I like your idea about the insulating gasket. I have a simple scuttle hole in my hallway and I tacked a piece of R-19 to the backside of it. I am in the process now of redoing the exterior and plan to add some gable vents and maybe a attic fan.