Replies

1. 
   Danusan11 | Dec 31, 2006 07:41pm | #1

   Sawzall with bayonet blade, big azz hammer and steel plate and drive the subfloor out in sections, without plates dropping. Access from below and cleats and ply.

2. 
   JDRHI | Dec 31, 2006 07:49pm | #2

   First question would be what's under the sole plates?

   Joists running perpendicular, I hope?

   If so....no problem with sawzall.

   If they're running parallel, that's another story.

   Happy

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3. 
   FLA Mike | Jan 02, 2007 01:32am | #3

   What kind of shape are the floor joist in, under these rotted areas?

    

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1. 
   mwgaines | Jan 02, 2007 03:33am | #5

   "What kind of shape are the floor joist in, under these rotted areas?"

   I crawled under the house and inspected both the flooring and the joists. The underside of the flooring is stained but not damp, and the joists appear to be in good shape. The flooring is nailed 1/2 inch plywood (no screws or adhesive) and fairly spongy when walked on, even though the joists are 16 o.c..  The bathroom floors look and feel weak, especially where the toilets, shower, and tub were located. I plan to tile the bathroom floors and I want to install a quality laminate in the kitchen area, so I really need to get this right. I've completely gutted the interior of this house and I want to remedy every problem I can before I start going back in the other direction.

   Thanks for the response,

   Michael

1. 
   cannon | Jan 07, 2007 11:03am | #6

   In my old 1950's former army barracks house i had similar problems.  the original floor was 3/4 inch fir and the spots like you mentioned were in bad shape, and there were lots of holes in places because we were moving things like the toilets to different areas so we had the old holes.  i just put down another layer of subfloor over the old one.  covered the whole house.  I used 5/8 sturdi-floor and was very happy with the results. the floor is sturdi

4. 
   Piffin | Jan 02, 2007 03:21am | #4

   First - is this plywood or one by lumber?

   And what is the "water damage"? Just staining, or rot? or in the case of plywood, separation?

   I normally use a sawzall with long blade for something like that - especially easy with studs opened up.

    

    

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5. 
   JohnT8 | Jan 07, 2007 11:11am | #7

   I've done a lot of this flush cutting in the last year.  I agree with the Sawzall crowd.  I use a 12" Ax demo blade.  It is a durable blade, but has a slight amount of flex to it, so you can keep it right up against the bottom plate.  After a few, you will get a feel for cutting the subfloor without digging into the top of the joist.

   But if you want to use this as an excuse to buy a new tool, there is also that toe-kick saw out there that would also do the trick.

   And as someone has already mentioned... keep an eye on the joists before you start flush cutting.  Perpendicular isn't a problem.  Parallel might mean cutting wider.

    

    

   jt8

   "Holding on to anger is like grasping a hot coal with the intent of throwing it at someone else; you are the one getting burned."
   -- Buddha 

1. 
   mwgaines | Jan 07, 2007 06:06pm | #9

   "But if you want to use this as an excuse to buy a new tool, there is also that toe-kick saw out there that would also do the trick."

   Can you be more specific? Brand or item number?

   Thanks.New knowledge is priceless. 

   Used knowledge is even more valuable.

1. 
   JohnT8 | Mar 24, 2007 12:17am | #11

   Do an eBay search for toe kick saw.   Several out there.  I've been fighting off the urge to buy one for a few years now.

   Here's a manuf site:

   http://www.craintools.com/pages/more_pages/795_more.html

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   jt8

   "Some of the best lessons we ever learn are learned from past mistakes. The error of the past is the wisdom and success of the future."  -- Dr. Dale Turner

   Edited 3/23/2007 5:26 pm by JohnT8

1. 
   mwgaines | Mar 24, 2007 03:13am | #12

   Cool tool. Thanks for the link.New knowledge is priceless. 

   Used knowledge is even more valuable.

1. 
   ckorto | Mar 24, 2007 04:23am | #13

   I use to put a biscuit jointer blade on my angle grinder to do the job.  thirteen stiches later I'm glad to know this tool exists, thank you very much for the site.

    

   Chuck

6. 
   Shep | Jan 07, 2007 03:56pm | #8

   If the subfloor under the plates isn't rotted, just use a circ. saw and cut 2-3" away from the plate. Install 2x blocking to support the joint, and install new subfloor.

   Or, if you want to go to a heavier subfloor, cut along the plate, add blocking, and install new. If the floor joists are parallel to the plate, its best to add another joist to catch the plate and the new floor. If not, I'll use 2x4 blocks between the joists, and glue and screw them in place.

7. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Jan 07, 2007 06:09pm | #10

   I'd probably sawzall the bottom plate out first. The studs will hang around for a bit while you get the floor repaired.

   blue

   "...if you just do what you think is best testing those limits... it's pretty easy to find exactly where the line is...."

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