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Under Tile Heating Problems

| Posted in General Discussion on February 18, 2007 10:15am

I just began another larger bathroom tiling job… well a large bathroom in our area, 12’x16’… 12×12 tile for floor and 4×4 tile for jacuzzi tub surround… not any different from the others I have done in years past other than the under tile heating that the electricians have installed… it is run throughout the entire bathroom floor (Warm Tile) I believe is the name of the manufacturer… well the wires snap into a spacer strip that is about 7/16″… I have never run into this before so I am looking for some advice… should I put a 1/2″ layer of thinset on the floor and when it hardens tile as I usually would with a 1/4″ x 1/4″ trowel?  Or should I find a 1/2″ x 1/2″ trowel and tile directly over top of the wires?  Any information would be useful…  thanks much…

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  1. USAnigel | Feb 18, 2007 11:06pm | #1

    safest way is to thinset over the wires and wait till it sets. when set install your tiles. I've seen it installed both ways and 2nd method as given the best result.

  2. IdahoDon | Feb 18, 2007 11:15pm | #2

    The manufacturer will have specs on installation.  The few I've read through seem to prefer a skim coat over their product, as you've suspected, prior to laying the tile.

    Make sure to check that the crazy things work before, during and after your tile.  You can't hook up the heat, but at least check the resistance.  Also, there are some problems that require digging up certain parts of the embeded system so make sure you know where under the tile the connections and any sensors are located. 

    One manual talks about "call your tile installer to replace the thingamajig" as if it's easy to pop off a tile and dig through the thinset in a way that doesn't damage the wires going to the thingamajig. 

    You may get stuck with a big backcharge if you don't follow the mfg directions and precautions, there is a problem that can't be fixed, and there turns out no way to fix the thing (your fault or not).

    The only way I'll install the things is if the client accepts the risks of it not working.  Every electrican has horor stories of these things not working.

    Good luck.

     

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

  3. User avater
    Gene_Davis | Feb 18, 2007 11:20pm | #3

    I believe that the step-by-step article with photos can be accessed over at the JLC site, or maybe at the John Bridge tile forum, I cannot recall which, but it's out there . . . I've seen it.

    Tile expert, author, and contributing editor Michael Byrne shows you how to do this, by using a pour-on leveling compound.  Quick, easy, and gives a perfect base for tilesetting.

    Michael does the heat wire work himself in the article, and you might wish to see that part as well, so you can do it yourself in future.

  4. Billy | Feb 19, 2007 06:58am | #4

    Use self leveling cement and you'll be ready to tile in no time. Be sure to seal all holes, and put some type of expansion strip such as sill seal around the perimeter of the room before you pour the SLC.

    Billy

    1. FrankRizzo | Feb 19, 2007 09:30am | #5

      I just did this in my Master Bath. I used warmly yours dot com. They supply a "siren" that attached to the heating leads (battery powered) so that if any damage occurs whilst tiling - you know immediately ..... it saved my behind because I nicked one of the wires when installing the marble threshold ... thank goodness it was in a place that was easy to repair. Mfr. was willing to send a "repair kit" free of charge (!!!) but used shrink tubing and a soldering iron after discussing it with tech support.FWIW: I used an off the shelf self leveling compund (pre mixed in 1 gal buckets) and installed 20 x 20 porcelain tiles with a 1/4 x 3/8 notch over the top. Works great..

  5. levelone | Feb 19, 2007 10:00am | #6

    You might try snapping a few pictures--it makes it easier to find things later if there ever is a problem (not that there would be...)

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