FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Underground shed walls

Jasper57 | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 24, 2007 09:31am

Hi folks,

This is my first post, though I’ve been reading the list for a while. I am your basic homeowner with more tools than common sense, but one thing I have learned is that it’s better to ask questions BEFORE I screw something up, so here goes.

Our basement (which underlies half of our house) was built in the early 50’s, a slab with cinder block walls. Some time later somebody dug out, from the basement, a portion of the crawlspace under the other half of the house (which sits on a perimeter foundation). This apparently was done so they could hook up to city water and sewage. So now we have an odd-shaped dirt cavity about 10′ x 12″ x 5-6′ high. It’s a mess, but it seems harmless enough as far as structural issues (we’ve lived here 25 years). It’s dry and the earth is stable. The remaining portion of the soil that hasn’t been dug out is about 4′ high.

I would like to finish it well enough to store lumber and such back there. As it is now, anything left back there gets filthy fast. My notion is to dig down about 8″, put down 4″ of gravel, and cover the “floor” with either concrete or dry-laid solid 4″ thick cinder blocks. The “walls” are a puzzle, though. The walls would not have to support anything above them or even contact the floor joists above. I do expect that I would end up backfilling whatever earth I had to move against the outer side of the walls. I would build a 2×4 frame across the “ceiling” to cross-brace the walls.

So…what I am puzzled about is whether the walls have to be cinder block or whether they could be pressure-treated plywood and 2×6 PT frame construction (similar to a pressure-treated foundation wall).

All this is a lot of work and expense to go through for a relatively small amount of low-head clearance storage space and, maybe more trouble than it’s worth, but it’s also a matter of trying to make it less of an eyesore and maybe make it more useful. I don’t know what to make of it as far as the Code is concerned, since it seems to me that it’s still basically just a crawlspace, not living space of any sort. Also, if I could level the rest of the crawlspace with the back-filled earth, I could insulate that wing of the house more effectively.

Maybe you can see why I’ve just been staring at it for 25 years? I’d appreciate any suggestions about a better course of action or something similar anyone might have done.

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all other good thinking I’ve seen here and in the magazine.

Jasper57

 


Edited 12/24/2007 1:35 am ET by Jasper57

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. john_carroll | Dec 25, 2007 12:20am | #1

    I've never built one but they are code-approved in many areas. Download the manual from the Southern Pine Council here:

    http://www.southernpine.com/pwf.shtml

  2. User avater
    Sphere | Dec 25, 2007 04:54pm | #2

    Rebar and shot crete. Think dry swimming pool.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

    1. Bing187 | Dec 25, 2007 10:20pm | #3

      cool. Gunite waterproof cellar w/ diving board.

  3. User avater
    popawheelie | Dec 25, 2007 10:35pm | #4

    I've been in similar situations I think. You really don't "need" the space but it would be nice to have. And the ditch looks funky.

    The problem is that if you don't do it right it still looks like an afterthought. In order to make it look like someone thought it through and there is a good reason for doing it you have to do it right.

    That means not doing it half way and spending money. Otherwise it will look like an afterthought and someone (you) will look cheap.

    I've done it both ways and I really dislike trying to explain to people why I did it half way and badly.

    Personally, and this is just my opinion, I'd dig it out full depth, put a slab in, and block walls. And make it wide enough for shelving on both sides with room to move in.

    Otherwise, just leave it alone.



    Edited 12/25/2007 2:36 pm ET by popawheelie

  4. dovetail97128 | Dec 26, 2007 12:47am | #5

    I have used "Lintel Blocks" dry stacked and with a single hor. rebar dropped into each course and a few verts. then filled the cells with grout of sack mix to build walls like this .

    Easy to do , no expertise needed and looks clean when done.

    They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
    1. dovetail97128 | Dec 26, 2007 12:48am | #6

      Meant to mention I used 6" blocks .
      They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

    2. Jasper57 | Dec 26, 2007 07:07pm | #9

      First of all, I'd like to thank you all for posting your thoughts on this at Christmastime. I know how busy I've been the last few days and I'm sure it's the same for you guys, so I appreciate it.

      Popawheelie has it right. I don't want to do it half-a**ed, but, like everything else, there's a limit to how much money and time it's worth. Also, it's true that everything has to be hand lugged down into a basement that has pretty poor access. But it is probably a good idea to keep digging down until the headroom becomes reasonable. There are cavities on either side of the main space that I can throw a lot of dirt into. A decent slab is worth doing, too.

      I like the idea of Lintel Blocks, though. Are you saying that they should be laid up like a regular vertical wall, or should each course be offset back from the one below, like a timber retaining wall?

      That reminds me, though, of another process. I remember reading somewhere long ago (FH??) about using a fiberglass impregnated concrete that you could parge onto a dry-stack wall and end up with a smooth, solid, fairly strong wall. I think I've seen it around. Has anyone ever used that?

      Thanks again and best wishes for the Holidays as well,

      Jasper57

       

       

      1. dovetail97128 | Dec 26, 2007 07:40pm | #10

        I dry stacked mine vertically, no step back against the dirt.
        Staggered the vertical joints by alternating the corner blocks . Went up a few courses, dropped a horz. bar in each course as I went then a few short vertical bars (just long enough to tie into the next two courses) then filled the courses. I have some planting beds here I made the same way. 18 or so year old now and I have dragged them, pushed them , and lifted them many times with my bobcat and they are still in one piece.
        They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

  5. DonK | Dec 26, 2007 04:03am | #7

    I don't see any reason that you can't do it with the PT lumber in the manner you suggest. 

    OTOH, the post about doing it right, so that it looks good (instead of so-so) makes more sense.

    Think it boils down to what are you really going to do with the space and how much you want to spend. Price it out both ways. You might be surprised.

    Don K.

    EJG Homes    Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

     

  6. User avater
    PeterJ | Dec 26, 2007 07:03am | #8

    Probably overkill, but you could use a retaining wall system like Keystone. Downside is you'd have to haul it all through your basement if I'm getting the picture.

    http://keystonewalls.com/pages/Contractor_pages/C_prod.struct.html

    PJ

    Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Landscape Lighting Essentials
  • Podcast Episode 694: Bath Fans, Too Many Minisplits, and Second-Story Additions
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Can You Have Too Many Minisplits?

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data