Replies

1. 
   briankeith | Jul 06, 2003 06:52pm | #1

   Hi Tom,

   Personally I think you can just forget the glue. I've done many coverups and even on new construction, I just staple it down. And I mean staple it down a lot. Every four inches or so. We use luan underlayment. Nice smooth service. I use a senco SKS to "nail" it down. 3/16 crown and usually a 1-1/4" leg. Only thing you need to be careful of is that you are not setting the staples too deep.

   Any irregularities in the edges can be taken care of with a quick pass of a belt or disc sander. And if there are any little gaps, the flooring guy will fill them if he needs too.

1. 
   GUNN308 | Jul 06, 2003 09:42pm | #2

   Luan is not accepted by vinyl mfgs anymore it will void warrantee baltic birch is the recomended product stapled 3"x3" in field and 1 1/2" on edges APM and Halex are 2 names I use they come in 4'x5' sheets I pay about $11.00 a sheet nice surface and no voids in sub plys.

1. 
   briankeith | Jul 06, 2003 09:59pm | #3

   Hey Gunn308,

   Thanks for the info.....

   Have to have a talk with the flooring guys 'bout this.

   You agree that no adhesive is needed?

1. 
   GUNN308 | Jul 06, 2003 10:05pm | #5

   Never have used it, but have skim coated embossed vinyl with Webcrete 98 portland based patch and installed right over.

2. 
   TomT226 | Jul 07, 2003 02:16pm | #15

   The floor place requires this type of underlayment for them to warranty the installation, so it doesn't look like I have a choice.

   I do think that the staples sound like a good idea, so I'll run it by them.

   Still no ideas on glue?

1. 
   wrick2003 | Jul 07, 2003 02:37pm | #16

   try to think about the guy who has to follow you in twenty years.  a stapled underlayment is efficient and it always works.   you don't need to glue it down. if you've ever had to demo an existing vinyl floor and it's underlayment, and had to spend 2-3 hours hand chiselling the chunks of glue off, you know what i mean.  

   ditto on the lauan.  the last lauan u/l i laid was covered with the cheapest vinyl i've ever seen. there were brown spots leeching through only a couple of days after it was installed.

   good luck     rg

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 06, 2003 10:04pm | #4

   Skip the glue.  Use the 1/4" underlayment birch plywood.  I usually nail it off with ring-shanks, 4-6".  After it's nailed down, I top it with a leveling compound to fill in the seams and hammer dents.  When dry, belt sand it smooth.  (A fan blowing on the surface speeds srying time.)  Vinyl telegraphs any imperfections in the subfloor, so make sure your nails (or staples) are set below the surface.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
1. 
   Qtrmeg | Jul 06, 2003 10:08pm | #6

   I won't battle the choice of underlayment, but hand nails? Holy prepwork Batman.

   And ya, no glue. Try to pull this stuff up when it is properly fastened.

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 06, 2003 10:57pm | #9

   I'll admit that staples would be faster.  So now I'm trying to figure out why I should nail down another subfloor.

   A good excuse to buy another tool.  Cool.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

1. 
   Qtrmeg | Jul 07, 2003 12:37am | #12

   Ya, I use a narrow crown, 7/8 or whatever is needed. I have a Bostitch, but would rather have gotten a Duofast when my first one got stolen, (they might be overkill for occasional use), but B's were all I could get, and you know the deal, I didn't have a week to wait.

   I hate the Bostitch, but it can work, and the prep is zip. The speed is to die for installing, new tool is right. What, maybe $100ish?

2. 
   GUNN308 | Jul 06, 2003 10:08pm | #7

   That's the reason for staples no rosettes, just make sure they're divergent points.

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 06, 2003 10:54pm | #8

   Got to admit I've never used staples before because I never bought a staple gun.  (I assume you're using something larger than 1/4", right?)  It (staple gun) would definitely be faster.  But even with staples, I'd cover with a leveler.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

1. 
   GUNN308 | Jul 08, 2003 06:08am | #17

   1/4" crown is the standard 7/8"-1 1/4" lengths and DouFast lasts the longest for day in day out use. Divergent points are; one leg is chiseled in the opposite direction from the other leg so when the staple goes in the legs go in opposite directions. The heads are small enough that you only have to patch and sand your seams.

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 06, 2003 10:58pm | #10

   And while I'm thinking about it, which stapler do you recommend?

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

3. 
   TRIGGER | Jul 06, 2003 11:04pm | #11

   What is a divergen point?

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 07, 2003 12:54am | #13

   I believe it means the points of the staples are cut with opposing bevels, so when the staple enters the wood, the two points splay out in opposite directions, creating a tight joint that is a bear to pull up.  Think of the points as legs doing the splits and you get the idea.

   If I got it right, that is.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Jul 07, 2003 01:27am | #14

   I use 1.5" narrow crown staples in a 4" grid in the field (center of sheet) and 2" on the edges, but if you decide to hand nail, be sure to use underlayment nails.  They are a little different than RS common, etc, more like a box nail, and the last thing you want is nail pops in the middle of your vinyl floor from using the wrong nails.Matt