okay we’ve had a thread on undermount sinks on tile tops, anybody done them in laminated tops?
ive heard of it being done, and would like to try one, any suggestions?
i assume the substrate would have to be routered out and replaced with something, corian? or some other solid surface material?
i make a lot of laminated tops and it might be a good option for clients
caulking is not a piece of trim
Engineered-stone shower panels are waterproof, but proper installation relies on tight seams and silicone sealing.
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Replies
Interesting. Never seen it done and never thought of doing it. I don't understand the part
>>i assume the substrate would have to be routered out and replaced with something, corian?
Do you mean you cut out a section of the laminate and insert a solid material in
which you rout the sink outline?
Must find a way to isolate the water from any cut laminate edge.
Tom
Seen it done....it aint pretty. Theoretically you could put an outlet in the shower as well. Why even attempt it? Are you getting that many calls for high end fixtures on low end projects?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Steve, I have installed six undermount sinks in plam tops so far this year.
The ring is solid surface material, and put into the blank before the laminate goes on. The sink is attached afterwards.
The sink rings come in a couple colors and some speckled finishes as well.
Here is a picture. I don't pick the colors, I just install them.
Dahoo --
What is the glue underneath the formica? Do you use the same glue at the formica/corian bond as the formica/plywood bond? If it is good ol' contact cement in both places, does it seem to make a waterproof bond between the corian and the formica?
Jamie, in order to get the manufacturers warranty, the sink has to be installed by a " Factory Trained Technician"
Some of the blanks I make, the one in the picture was made by a counter top shop. The blank is particle board, the ring is glued in with what looks like a hot melt adhesive. Solvent based contact cement for the plam, both on the blank and the ring.
The sink is siliconed to the underside of the ring, then screwed to the under side of the blank with a toggle type clamp.
Hope this helps, Darren.
ps here is the rest of the kitchen.
Darren --
When you say "manfacturers warranty", which manufacturer are you talking about? The sink, the plam, or the solid-surface?
Jamie
The counter top manufacturers warranty,that the sink will not leak and damage the top.
Darren.
Cool Question!
I've done lots of undermounts with laminate tops. The next time I do one, I'm going to try to get FHB to let me do an article.
I don't mess with mixing solid surface material and substrate.
I begin by installing a structural frame within the cabinet to support the sink. I dado out the support lumber so the top edge of the sink is in the same plane as the top of the cabinets. This eliminates the need for the countertop to support the sink which can be a problem along the front and rear edges. Typically, I haven't used regular undermount style sinks but rather recycled (or bought new) porclean coated cast iron drop in sinks. This may sound weird but it's usually a lot cheaper than undermount models - go figure.
I fabricate the top. Somethimes I use regular countertop grade particle board but lately I've taken a fancy to exterior grade MDF (Medex is one brand). I use a full double thickness for at least 2 feet on either side of the sink centerline for full structural thickness.
I precisely locate and mark out the sink cutout. I mark radius corners with 2" to 3" radius and start my cuts there. Using a like sized hole saw, I plunge all 4 corners. I take great care making the straight line cutouts from the corner holes since it will be the finish edge. Plumb cut is critical for the inside edge edge banding to work. I clean up the cutout with a belt sander.
Then I start the laminating sequence. Beginning with the BOTTOM of the countertop, I laminate scraps that are at least 2 in. wide all around the perimeter of the cutout. This waterproofs the bottom edge where the seal is to the sink. After trimming out the cutout edge with a straight cutter, I dry fit the inside perimeter of the cutout. To get the tight radii I use a heat gun to form the edge banding strip. I locate the joint along the front edge so it won't be as visible. Once glued up and installed I trim and file the bottom and top edges.
Finally, I drop the top sheet on and route it out to the cutout.
With the sink in place on the frame, I spread a double bead of elastomeric window and door sealant (like DAP SideWinder) and drop the top in place.
I prefer to have the full 1 1/2" countertop depth to the sink but the same princples can be used to achieve a 3/4" (single thickness) reveal. The only change to the steps is to raise the structural sink frame up 3/4" above the top of the cabinets.
I used the system on my own house 7 years ago and have not had any leaks. And since I used particle board on my top, I know that it would swell if there were leaks. Second try was on my mother's top 6 years ago. Only problem I had was my father watching over my shoulder and trying to help. Her's is fine. And I've had no complaints from any clients.
Mike Guertin
so you are laminating all visible edges and underneath in the sink area with laminate?
sounds interesting and having lasted 6 years, it must be waterproof
the laminate around the sinkedge, do you use contact cement?
by the way, it would be a great article, im working on one right now on laminating c'tops, just waiting for a photo shoot site
contact brian p at taunton, he's been a big helpcaulking is not a piece of trim
Yup,
Laminate 2" on the underside with pieces (color doesn't matter either since it's not seen) I just use 'scrap' but make sure any joints are close.
I use regular contact cement - lately I've been using latex based low VOC - it's slower drying but sticks just as well and doesn't get me high.
Will this be your first FHB article or have you done others? Brian's a great guy. I've done 3 or 4 articles with him so far. He asks lots of questions which is good for me as an author - keeps me from missing the finer points of a process.
Mike Guertin
Edited 8/30/2003 11:22:01 AM ET by MIKEGUERTIN