Hi everyone. I’ve been working on my bathroom, and we’re going to install tile. I was checking the floor for low spots, and found that it’s out of level by 5/8 inch over 5 feet going towards the middle of the house. I assume this in mostly due to the house settling, but I’m concerned about this mostly because I’m building my own shower pan. At 1/4 inch per foot for draining, I’m worried there won’t be enough pitch to drain the water appropriately. The room in 5×9 feet, and the shower is at the back, 5’Wx30″D. Should I just not worry about this? Should I try to level the whole floor? Or should I just shim the curb level for the pan, and leave the floor alone? Thanks for your answers in advance!
Ryan
Replies
Shim the curb.
If the floor is flat but unlevel, leave it alone. Especially 5/8" in 5'. You would have a problem if there were a 5/8" dip or rise in part of the floor.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
When you float your mud is where you make the pitch towards the drain. It has little or nothing to do with whats there now.
My concern with the pan is that if I don't correct the floor or the curb, then the pan will be off 5/8" in relation to the curb, and then the tile will be off as well. I don't think we would notice any difference at the top of the shower. I wasn't sure if correcting the whole floor would be better, or just the curb. I also need to make sure things are square so the door fits as well.
Ryan
Is the curb pre-formed, or will it be site built?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Site built. Three 2x4s stacked.
I was thinking of cutting shims in 1/8" increments from 5/8" to 1/8" and nailing them to the first 2x4, then fill the spaces with compound. I'd then screw the second 2x4 to the first, and nail the last one.
Ryan
"Site built. Three 2x4s stacked"
Doesn't seem sufficient even with a level floor.
Yeah, with the preslope and setting bed and all, seems a little short.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
The door sill needs to be perfectly level regardless of the floor. The floor can be corrected after you complete the shower. What kind of material are you planning for the floor?
And I hope your not using "joint" compound to fill the void between the 2x4s. I use construction adhesive to fill voids. Its waterproof and it doesnt shrink or crack. just keep weight off it until it sets up
The door I'm worried about is the shower door. If I don't correct the 5/8" difference, the opening won't be very square. I got the three 2x4s idea for the curb from both the "Renovating a Bathroom" by Taunton, and another book by Black and Decker. Both used a stack of three 2x4s. As far as materials, I'm tiling the whole shower and the bathroom floor. I plan to use Ditra for the floor tiles on the main floor, and I have Durock for the shower, with RedGard to waterproof the pan and walls. I wasn't planning to use joint compound to fill the gap, but I have some floor leveling compound I was thinking of using, though I also though about cutting another 2x4 to bridge the difference. That would be tricky, since I don't have a table saw to make cuts like that.
Ryan
After reading your first post and the replies, it seems to me that it wouldn't be that hard (but then, again, I'm not the one doing the work!) to level the floor--it's only 5' x 9'. Seems like you could cut tapered shims and put plywood over them. Just a thought. Then your floor would be good, flat and solid.
On the other hand, since you are tiling, you might be better off to use tile backer (maybe run thinset under it to get it level?). (You might even be able to cut tapered screed boards and use them at the edges with mortar or thinset between.) These are just thoughts--I've never done it myself.
Both good ideas, but I already installed the subfloor. I discovered it was not level when I was checking for low spots to fill. I was going to use some backerboard, but even the 1/4" would make the tile too far above the adjacent floor by 3/16". Thanks though.
Ryan
Ryan, you don't need a table saw, if you have a half way decent steady hand you can rip yourself some tapered shims easily with a circ saw. simply chalk or draw your line from 0" to 5/8" and away you go. Use your finger as a steadying guide as you make the cut. Simular to using your finger as a guide to making a straight rip, but you slowy adjust your finger as you go. You can make the cut also without your finger, but I find that it helps to keep the saw steady.