I am in the process of doing a 12X30 addition. The exterior walls are 2×6. Is it best to use paper backed insulation containing a vapor barrier or put in raw fiberglass and use a plastic vapor barrier to cover the entire wall? I am thinking the plastic vapor barrier is the best approach. However, my sheetrocker was going to glue and screw the sheetrock. With plastic on the wall the glueing is out of the question. I would think screwing should suffice. It has in the past. So, what is better: paper backed insulation and having the sheetrock glued and screwed or using a plastic vapor barrier and just screwing-in the sheetrock?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
These defensive details give homes a better chances of surviving wildfires.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Plastic is in the contrast you describe.
If you used fibreglas with kraft face, the tabs should be stitches on the face of the studs to act as a good vaporbar anyway. Don't let the rocker tell you how to insulate. His only intrest is getting the job done quicker. He'll just have to adapt to reality.
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
The paper, or kraft face on insulation is a vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Use ufaced insulation and a poly (plastic) air/vapor barrier. If the screws pull the rock tight to the wall you shouldn't have any problems.
steve
We use poly vapor barier, then cut little " footballs" out of the poly, at random, on each stud. Then fill the cutouts with drywall adhesive. Once you get used to it, this works quite well. By the way, the glue should completely cover the cutout, so the vapor barier is still effective. Also don't overcut beyond the edge of the studs, try to stay on the face.
Brudoggie
What kind of glue? Have you done any checks on whether it damages the plastice over a period of time. The solvents in some glues can't be too healthy for the plastic. I can imagine that football hole getting bigger and bigger with time.
Isn't the main reason for glue on SR to save time? All that manual football cutting and accurate glue placement must not help that time criteeeeria very much..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
The adhesive used doesn't attack the poly, as I've seen when remodeling in places where we did this a few years back. You're right though, I imagine if someone tried to use subfloor adhesive, it could be bad news. Ever seen someone try to glue foam to a foundation with that stuff? We don't use the glue to enhance the speed of the job, but to help eliminate screw pops. Yeah, it takes a little longer, but not much, once you're used to the process. Good call with the heads up on the glue! I generally use OSI drywall adhesive, in tubes.