Using a Brad Nailer on baseboards and…
netrate
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I am using a brad nailer on baseboards I am installing – never used one before so there is going to be some test boards and trial and error.
The baseboards are 7/8 depth X 5 inches in height. Now, should I be putting the nail in the top of the baseboard or the bottom or both when installing? The middle perhaps? The wall isn’t true and neither is the floor, so I am not sure how to proceed.
Do I need to fill the holes after wards that the brad nailer leaves?
Replies
david
An 18 ga. brad nailer will work, but nail length is the important part. The nail itself is thin, head pretty darn small-drawing in power is minimal.
7/8" + wallboard thickness? + 1-1/4" into the stud/plate.
You've got at least an inch and 3/8's b/4 you get to the meat. Most brad nailers max out at 2-1/8".
What I would advise-a finish gun capable of 2-1/2" nail 15 or16 ga. Use the brad nailer on wood to wood connections-trim to jamb for instance.
Nail up high into studs to draw the base to the wall. Down low for the same reason. 2 nails are enough, 3 are way plenty. With base that tall and thick-brad nailer will be undersized.
Especially with the uneven wall and floor I'd suggest trim screws.
I want to avoid using screws because I hate the look of screw heads - my dad has them all over his baseboards and I never really liked them.
The brad nailer I have does up to 2 inches. The baseboards are closer to 3/4 when I measure them - and I will have to drill a hole in the wall to see how far until it reaches the wood. I am a little stuck then with the nailer - the package says up to 2 inches, so I assume I can't insert anything longer than that.
I think a 16ga straight finish (brad) nailer would be more appropriate for the baseboards, but the 18ga brad nailers are really useful too. The 16ga nailers take up to 2 1/2 inch brads, which is what you will need, and the brads are a good bit thicker than 18ga.
I don't have a 16ga brad nailer, so I use my 15ga finish nailer. They are a fairly substantial nail that can split trim, and they do leave a larger mar on the surface. But I mainly putter around, you just can't have everything.
And another thing, never forget to release the trigger, which can happen when you're tired or distracteed, that leads to an unpleasant situation. Also remember that a nail can and does sometimes go squirrely when it hits something hard that deflects it. So don't nail near your hand. I've had them shoot out the side and even the top on occasion.
Try to hit the studs and bottom plate.
The wall has a 2X something, Typically 2X4 frame, covered with drywall. The 2X is typically at 16-inch on center vertically, and there are top and bottom plates. You can pull the cover off any receptacle to investigate how thick the drywall is. If you look closely you should be able to see which side of the receptacle box the 2X is, and start the spacing from there.
You need a long enough brad to penetrate the baseboard and drywall, and still have at least an inch into the 2Xs.
You nail into the studs on the top of your baseboard, and into the bottom plate of the wall at the bottom.
David
Blobs of PL Premium adhesive on the backside-shoot into the studs and plate and hope for the best.
Don't put the blobs up too high, so you have them ooze out the top edge of base.
Not my preferred method, but should work.
Have Mineral Spirits or Thinner readily available for cleanup and a pc. of cardboard to lay the caulk gun on so when it keeps oozing out the tube you don't make a mess-back off the handle after using each time. Can shove a 16d sinker in the end of the spout, wrapped around with a paper towell (to act as the handle) and shove up against something that won't move.
They often coupled finish nailers with brad nailers and compressor-has your outfit been used, could you trade it in for the different setup?
Best of luck.
It was on sale 3 gallon compressor and the nailer for $88.00. The nailer alone is around $150.00 and didn't want to fork out that kind of dough for it. Sigh, just my luck.
Do you think the brad nail will go into the MDF to make up for the extra 1/2 an inch?
No way........
Even with a deep depth adjustment.
Be carefull with the mdf, face nail only-glue the corners-tough to cope, but can be done-do not come into it via the edge-it'll "split" real easy. The paper is glued up in layers to make up the thickness-and the layers are fragile.
I will take that into account. I am still on the fence with the nailer, being a good deal, I don't really want to take it back because of its obvious usefulness on many accounts. Just trying to decide whether I should rent a nailer like you suggested for this particular job.
David
Check out Porter Cable-they used to have deals all the time-compressor-finish gun, brad nailer............among others.
I've got an older PC pancake, among other brands of compressors. It's loud, it's heavy and it still runs.
Or as some would say-go to harbor freight-it's bout 10.00 us. beats me, I once bought a bag of gloves from 'em. Those were good.
By the way, what brand stuff did you get?
Try CPO tools (online) for factory reconditioned Porter-Cable.
You may find a nailer that will fit your budget.
Jim
I think you meant your post for David. The day I need another nailer is the day I start driving by hand again.
LOL!!!
Yep, posted reply to the wrong message. Sorry.
Go For It
1/2 inch isn't much "bite", but it will hold. There really aren't any forces pulling the baseboard away from the wall. I might be inclined to double-up the nails wherever there's a smal gap that needs closing. If it's a significant gap, add a little bit of glue.
There are some good water-based glues (such as Loctite Power Grab) which will work just fine.
I would rather use a 16 gauge finish nailer with a 2-1/2 inch nail, but in my opinion, you'll be fine with an 18 gauge and 2 inch nails. If you do double-nail for extra insurance, angle the nails slightly towards (or away) from each other to resist pull out.
Experiment on some scrap, I think you'll be surprised at the holding power of an 18 gauge nail.
yo Don
How you been?
It seems he's gained some depth, what the base was in the original post (7/8") is now 5/8. With rock lath and a skim coat-like you said, he should be good.
Been Fine
Hey Calvin,
I'm doing well and very busy. I do check in here now and again, but the response time and format discourage me.
I do plan on attending the proposed upcoming fest. I hope to see you there... that is, if you can tear yourself away from this forum for a couple of days :)
barring death or dismemberment-
We'll be there.
And here's a reminder............
No one wears white pants to fests.
Thanks for the reminder
No one wears white pants to fests
You mean no one LEAVES a fest wearing white pants
Can you rent?
Can you rent the proper nailer?
Or, countersink and fill screws.
Or, nail by hand?
As a diy-er, I try to overbuild. It helps counter what I don't yet know.
Good luck.
I still say that trim screws are the way to go. The heads are no larger than a casing nail's.
Ok, well I have been patient and maybe that paid off. At Canadian Tire, this week, here is the sale :
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443322479&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672077&bmUID=1361741399789
For $189.00 it comes with four different nailers, but no compressor. So do you think this is going to suit me better (although a $100 more) and take back the other one I have which is just the brad nailer? I guess my hestitation comes from wondering if I will ever use all of the other nailers in the set - I just don't know. I have the whole house to do, but whether or not I need them is to be seen...
Campbell Hausfeld Nailer Kit, 4-pk
Tools include 34 degree clipped head framing nailer, 2 ½" finish nailer, 1 ¼" brad nailer, and 1 ¼" crown stapler
The only one in question is the clipped heat framer
In a lot of areas, they don't allow the use of the clipped heads due to concerns with them pulling through due to the reduced head size.
The other three can see quite a bit of use on a remodel.
Nailing baseboard
Hey there, If you don't have a lot to do why not use hammer and 8 penny finish nails? If you really want holding power and draw strength use hot dipped galvanized finish nails - the extra texture definitely adds withdrawal strength. That being said, baseboard generally looks a lot better if it's straight even if the wall isn't. Base that follows a wavy wall really accentuates the waviness. This of course leads to more caulking at the top, but a much better looking job after paint. If you really want to use a nail gun check out Harbor Freight for a $14.99 16 guage finish gun that will shoot 2.5"s.
I went ahead and bought the 4 pack nailer. I couldn't pass it up. And since I want to do a deck this summer, I thought I might as well. So now I have a 2.5 inch nailer!
david
Be careful, don't shoot yourself.
And read the directions and care and maintainance manuals as well.
Tool investment requires some due dilligence.