Replies

1. 
   JohnSprung | Mar 25, 2005 01:19am | #1

   A lot of the guys who re-saw old wood prefer a band saw to a table saw.  It's safer because they don't kick back and they're a bit more forgiving of embedded junk.

    

   -- J.S.

    

2. 
   Luka | Mar 25, 2005 01:33am | #2

   What is this cd and where did you get it ?

   : )

   The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow

   It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.

1. 
   Techaddict | Mar 25, 2005 03:29am | #7

   I bought the CD on Ebay from a seller called warznorth. It gives you all the info. on how to build a bandsaw for cutting logs etc.

1. 
   Luka | Mar 25, 2005 04:22am | #8

   Thank you Murr.The name there is actually Wareznorth.The word "Warez" is slang for pirated software.Dunno if that means anything here...I do know you got me googling on homemade bandsaws again.: )Thanks.

   The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.

3. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 01:41am | #3

   It ain't so much the saw, its the blade.

   When you say a 14" wide throat, you mean a 14" resaw cap? ( that is table to blade guides) or 14" from blade to upper wheel support?

   Either way, yes..A BS is the choice for resawing posts or boards safely, and with less kerf loss.

   If the motor is 3/4 hp or larger, be looking for a "woodslicer" blade..a 1/2" wideX 3TPI, or a 3/4"wide X  3TPI is what yer after.

   I get mine from highland hardware in Atlanta.

   It's fun..get some roller stands and be careful.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

1. 
   mikerooney | Mar 25, 2005 02:42am | #4

   Most 14" saws say they'll take a 3/4" blade, but they can't tension it properly.

    6 16 17 97 99   

    

                                                       

    

1. 
   exhibitor | Mar 25, 2005 02:48am | #5

   As Sphere said, 1/2" 3tpi is what you need...

2. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 03:29pm | #10

   Suprisingly, the woodslicer needs a lot less tension, my 5 YO 14" Rigid does fine with it....best blade out there IMO. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

4. 
   Miami | Mar 25, 2005 03:18am | #6

   Bandsaw's the way to go - safer, less kerf loss, all as said above.  You may get some twisting or other bad behavior from these, as the internal tensions are released when you resaw.  Be sure to leave yourself some planing room between the bandsaw setting and desired final dimension, and let them set in the shop a few days, at least, before flattening/using them.

    

   If this is first resawing or new blade, you'll want to set the fence to correct for 'blade drift.'  Below is text from a DIY page, and the link has the pictures and other bandsaw setup info.  Every blade is different, but once set, it doesn't change for that blade.

   "Band Saw: Adjusting for Blade Drift

   The final phase of the band-saw tune-up is to adjust for drift. Unlike table saws, band saws possess a nuance called drift. This term refers to the fact that every blade has a tendency to cut slightly in one direction or the other. Fortunately, the drift for a particular blade remains consistent throughout the life of the blade. Therefore, the fence on the band saw can be adjusted slightly to compensate for that angle.

   • The first step is to determine the angle of the drift. Use a jointed piece of kiln-dried stock that is 24 inches long by 2 inches thick. Draw a line down the length of the stock 1/8-inch from the jointed edge (figure P).
   • Use the band saw to freehand a cut along the line, stopping a third of the way down the length. Set the sliding bevel gauge against the jointed edge and lock in the angle. Continue cutting along the line, occasionally checking the angle with the bevel gauge to confirm the angle of the cut (figure Q).
   • Once you've determined the exact angle, adjust the fence on the band saw to that angle. The angle can be adjusted by first loosening the bolts beneath the front of the fence (figure R).
   • Once the bolts have been loosened, tap the fence gently until it lines up with the bevel gauge to get the proper adjustment (figure S), then re-tighten the bolts.
   • This adjustment should ensure straight cuts -- until you change the blade. Setting the blade to compensate for the drift is the most important step in fine-tuning a band saw. Once the adjustment is set up, you'll be able to slice off thin sheets of veneer with confidence."

   http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wk_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_14429_2278285,00.html

    

   The above is a good idea for all bandsawing, but for resawing specifically, some folks swear by an alternative, a 'point' fence.  This is a dowel or 'nose' set up vertically so that it only contacts the board at one point opposite the blade, instead of all along a regular fence.  With this, you correct for the blade drift by feed angle (and end up at the same angle as the fence adjustment above).

    

   Have fun!  Resawing cedar 6x6s could be an aromatic day ...

    

   Clay
1. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 03:36pm | #11

   There was an article in FWW a few months back about setting up yer saw better.

   One of the points was "eliminate" drift altogether. I have my saw tweaked for this with a Woodslicer blade..I don't have a factory fence, but I can clamp a fence parrallel to either edge of the table, and get a tablesaw like cut..NO drift at all.

   Drift is caused mostly by not tracking in the true center of the wheel or a dull/bad blade, or improperly set guides( no matter what type you have , bearing, pinch etc.). 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

1. 
   JohnSr | Mar 25, 2005 03:45pm | #12

   Used the same info from the FWW article to set up my Ridgid 14" BS.  Perfect cuts - no drift.  I also use the 1/2" 3 TPI Woodslicer from Highland Hdw. - great blade.

   I did install roller guides on the BS - like them much better than the stock metal guides or Cool Blocks.

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 03:51pm | #13

   Truely a great blade and article..I still have the stock guides and , like you, perfect cuts. Anything imperfect is operator error on my part. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

1. 
   jimblodgett | Mar 25, 2005 03:57pm | #14

   You guys don't happen to remember which issue that was, do you? Free speech leads to a free society.

2. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 04:00pm | #15

   Let me look in the porcelin library..gotta be there.

    

    

   edit: Dec/  #173.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

   Edited 3/25/2005 9:02 am ET by SPHERE

2. 
   Techaddict | Mar 27, 2005 03:50am | #19

   Miami. I read the article at the DIY site and I see what you and everyone are talking about re: drift and risers.

   The article mentioned using a $1 bill to set bearing to blade clearance. I'm in Ontario, Canada and we only have "Loonies and Toonies" for our $1 & $2 dollars which are coins. Guess I'll have to go the expensive route and use our $5 bill which is still paper !:):):)

   Have a good week-end and thanks for your information.

   Murr

1. 
   MarkH | Mar 27, 2005 04:29am | #20

   I think $5 Canadian is worth about $1 US so you'd be OK with the 5 spot.

1. 
   jimblodgett | Mar 27, 2005 05:15am | #21

   That was cold Martha.  Funny, but cold. 

5. 
   Shep | Mar 25, 2005 04:29am | #9

   If you've got a Delta bandsaw, you can buy the riser kit to give you a 12"  ( high) resaw capacity. I have one on mine and its well worth it.

   I think it will fit on some other brands, as well.

1. 
   Techaddict | Mar 25, 2005 05:36pm | #16

   Shep...excuse my ignorance, but could you explain what a 12" riser is on a bandsaw. I think I know what you mean but would be better off if you would explain.

   Thanks.

   Murr

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 05:44pm | #17

   I can help you out here. A riser block is actually about 5"..it increases your resaw capacity to about 11" (vs. the 5.5 on most 14" saws) it also dictates a 105" blade vs. a 93.5 thatis common. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

2. 
   Shep | Mar 26, 2005 02:36am | #18

   What Sphere said.

   The kit comes with the riser bolck, as well as all the necessary hardware and blade guard extensions.

   With the kit installed, and after a little fine tuning of your bandsaw and the right blade, you can easily resaw 10-11" wide boards.