Replies

1. 
   specs | Mar 22, 2004 07:54pm | #1

   Quite common. PEX behind the walls then transition to copper for stubbing out. Keep the PEX out of the light for UV, copper nipples/stubs also give something rigid to connect finished plumbing to.

   If mixing materials like that, if you have to sweat the fixtures to the copper stubs (sweating a toilet valve, for example), be aware of the PEX so you don't suffer a melt down.

   In basement it's common to use Cu for any long runs from the boiler to the manifold, or for cold water, from the supply (well or city supply) to tye manifold. Once out of the manifold it's PEX homeruns to minimize unions.

1. 
   ahneedhelp | Mar 22, 2004 08:16pm | #2

   Thanks for the very fast reply !

   Would be nice to keep things looking tidy/shiny in the basement utility room.

   Copper would be mainly starting from where the domestic enters the house and to the utility room, where it will mostly be copper and then start using Pex for reaching the servce points.

   Thanks for the warning about the sweating/melting dangers.

1. 
   iasm | Apr 06, 2004 07:43am | #3

   Hello

   I am building a house now and since the home I am in now is 25 years old and developing pin hole leaks in the copper I am not a copper fan.I went with wirsbo pex for both domestic and radiant.I used as little copper as I could.Once you do joints and run the pex you wont use copper just because the pex is so easy to work with.I didn't use stubs either I just used the bend supports from wirsbo.I used copper for the mechanical room and the main line from the street to the mechanical room.I also built hot and cold copper manifolds to home run pex to all the fixtures in the house.I have no couplings in the floor or walls.

1. 
   ahneedhelp | Apr 06, 2004 03:18pm | #4

   re - I went with wirsbo pex for both domestic and radiant.I used as little copper as I could.

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   If this was DIY, did you buy the tool for stretching/connecting the hoses ?

   I have everything lined up with the local supplier but haven't brought up the question of purchasing or borrowing the tool.

   Some have mentioned the tool can be 'borrowed' if enough footage of tubing and other supplies are bought.

   I am prepared to fork out the money for the manual spreader if needed.

1. 
   Mongo | Apr 06, 2004 05:49pm | #5

   You'll occasionally find them on eBay. When you're done you can put a "for sale" card up at the local plumbing supply house, or sell on eBay.

2. 
   iasm | Apr 06, 2004 08:46pm | #6

   i bought the tool.I am clad i did since i have used the pex for other projects.ie drain for hrv,drain for air handler,.I also use the pex for low voltage conduit in the walls so i could pull wire at a later date.To give you a tip on the cost, my cost on the materials is about half of retail.

3. 
   donpapenburg | Apr 07, 2004 02:32am | #7

   I went with Kitek fittings = NO special tools needed . They do have one special tool though ,that chamfers the inside of the tube so that it will slip over fitting. But you can use a regular reamer.  The fittings are Oring and compression ring all in one for a good tight fit up.

4. 
   greggo | Apr 07, 2004 03:01am | #8

   Hi Mongo:I took a couple of classes from stadler viega for $150 and at the end of the each class they give you a starter kit(crimp tool,1/2"and 3/4")not bad they list at $480

   Love that pex  stuff!!

   Stay safe greg

5. 
   Mongo | Apr 07, 2004 06:42am | #9

   Sounds like it's all coming together. If you get a chance down the road, let me know how you like their tools.

   pexidly,

   Mongo

2. 
   VtMike | Apr 07, 2004 01:50pm | #10

   I wouldn't staple the pex, too noisy!
1. 
   ahneedhelp | Apr 07, 2004 02:57pm | #11

   re -  

   I wouldn't staple the pex, too noisy!

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   Not sure if I understand....

   I'll check on alternative methods.

   Haven't read through the section in Wirsbo's manuals.