I visited a basement-finishing project yesterday. The walls were being framed with wood 2×4’s but using metal channel rather than top and bottom plates.
I was thinking this later – that’s not the way to do it. Is it?
I have heard it before that you don’t want to use metal studs in a basement and there was no gasket material between the channel and the concrete floor. I would think that it would rust and leave a thermal bridge. Not to mention the studs were spaced at random intervals most close to 12 inches. Don’t know how he’s planning to insulate the wall with fiberglass that way when it comes precut for 16 or 24 inches.
Replies
most finished basements that I see here in chicago are framed with light gauge metal studs, which is fine because they are not load bearing.
Spacing studs, either wood or metal, at a 12" O.C. where the walls are non-load bearing is a complete waste of time, money, and material. 24" O.C. is perfectly ok.
Thats how I've always done it.
Rust??? Well not in your lifetime unless you turn it into a pool area.
Be-ing rust never sleeps
a
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A metal channel on the floor is OK? I've seen people here before post pictures using metal framing in a basement before but it seems to me they always used a sub base of treated wood. The floor next to an exterior wall would get pretty cold and wouldn't moisture condense on any metal in contact with it?
Put it this way....I've recently ripped down a basement wall that was about 15 years old of metal studs in the last house I redid and it was almost imposssible getting the metal plate up it had so many nails shot in it....It was super solid and saw no signs of rust and that was a pretty damp basement to boot.I suppose you could put down some felt paper first. If metal is going to rot so will wood and if wood starts to rot then come the termites... and I'd never use CCA "in" a house.The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means.. I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us. http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 1/10/2005 7:21 am ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
The floor next to an exterior wall would get pretty cold and wouldn't moisture condense on any metal in contact with it?
Except that, a "modern" basement wall (or floor) is not supposed to get that cold (anymore).
Then, moisture is going to be an item--cold dry air will not condense as readily as cold damp air. If the wall is sealed more than middling tight, there's going to be little air circulation to bring moisture in contact with the metal, as well. Doesn't mean it can't happen--just that it's supposed to be less likely nowadays.
I've seen sill seal put down under metal channel, but have not seen any studies on whether that's better "building science" or not.
I think all metal stud makes sense in basements, personally. First off, the framer is able to cut all the pieces to fit "right there" (or with a helper in arm's reach). This means not having to set up a chop saw and carrying lumber to the saw, and then into the basement. Second, metal framing also can be a little easier around the "fiddly" bits basements have. But, that may just be a personal preference.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
To clarify .. the walls being framed were 2x4 wood studs with top and bottom metal channels. No wooden sills. This was to finish the basement of a 1940's house with sometimes damp concrete block walls.
I don`t see any problem with it. I`ve been using metal framing in basements for years. The only time I bother with wood studs is at door frames.
12" OC is completely unnecesary though.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Its O.K. to use metal channel but a wood shoe should be put down first then a galvanized metal channel on top of the shoe . Then go .
Mike - Foxboro , Mass.
It seems to me CCA treated lumber would be more corrosive to the metal track (even galvanized) than a damp basement floor.
Theres nothing wrong with the way its being done if in fact its all non load bearing. Commercial framers /drywallers will tell you the wall system gets a good deal of its strength from the wall board.
12" O.C. is gonna be a problem when it comes time to insulate
I agree about the CCA & metal framing. It might be O.K., but why risk it when the intitial reports are not good. I've ripped Trex to use between the concrete basement floor and metal track. No CCA, non-corrosive, long life, some insulating value -- perhaps the best use for Trex. ;-)
Billy
I would think that if you were going to have a problem with the metal channel rusting, you are also going to have a bigger problem with your floor covering rotting or getting damp. In fact I don't now why you would need to use treated wood either unless this is just to break up a basement into storage areas, and not create a living space. Any dampness problems should be fixed before you build.
RobertRobert
Between the shoe and metal is a layer of Bitchuthane strip . They are not load bearing walls . So 16" o.c. is fine .
Mike - Foxboro ,Mass.