Hi all, I am building a large’ish shed; 12 x 16, and am planning to use T1-11 siding as my exterior finish. I have a couple of questions.
- Does it qualify as wall sheathing?
If so, are the windows attached to the framing and then the T1-11 applied? Or is the T1-11 applied to the wall and then the window attached and the window trim; brickmold etc. used to cover the nailing strip for the windows?
If T1-11 doesn’t qualify as wall sheathing then I assume I have to sheath with an approved material, cut my window openings, etc.
Just want to make sure…!
Thanks all!
David
Edited 9/25/2006 3:24 pm by DavidR8
Replies
The thicker (5/8") T-111 is okay as sheathing in many jurisdictions, and in a shed, it's probably not an issue.
Either way, the most difficult part of the job will be to get the flashing detail done right. Don't rely on caulk, and I'd probably prime all the cut edges of the siding where it abuts the window.
If I were doing it, I'd think about installing the glazing, flashing, and the T-111 while the wall was flat on the deck. Never tried it, it sounds easy, but you know how that goes.....
I think, given a good flashing job, brickmold might just be an extra joint to have to worry about sealing from the weather.
I never knew there was a T1-11 thinner than 5/8"No way to do a proper flashing job with single sheet materials though. What goes under at top has to go over at bottom, and that just can't happen in the same plane.
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I never knew there was a T1-11 thinner than 5/8"
See what ya miss by not useing the bigboxes? snortYou can hear happiness staggering on down the street
I have been estimating using 3/8" T1-11, like Piffin I always thought it was the standard...
D.
Well, like ya know, if they think you might buy it they'll make it :o)
be heading for 11/32nds.
You can hear happiness staggering on down the street
"I have been estimating using 3/8" T1-11, like Piffin I always thought it was the standard.."Are talking about t1-11 or another product that has a pattern similar to t1-11.
No, I thought 5/8" is standard. That is all I have ever used
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3/4x4x9 - 12 or 8" OC can still be had here...
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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
i've had it 4", 8" or 12" OC, but never 3/4" thickness. That would be some good stuff! Almost always 9' loing, but can order it ten feet, and can order in fir, pine, or cedar
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haven't seen the 4" for some time... cedar is what ya get at 60$ a sheet retail... haven't seen the fir or pine in some time either..
serious arm twisting can get it for ya for at about 38$...
10's and 12's are available if ya really - really gotta have them...
make sure you put yur pants on backwards... saves getting them torn...
those sheets are heavy.. bring help...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
As others have mentioned, we can get 3/8" here in Maryland. Pretty whippy stuff, there's not a lot of meat left after the grooves are cut. I've probably used T-111 more as interior paneling for basements than I have for any outdoor use.
As fas as the flashing goes, you're absolutely right. I've run the head flashing out and bent a lip over the top of the window. The sill can be flashed reasonably well so it drips out, but the side jambs are an issue. No good way to flash the entire window, that's for sure.
I try to do it this way - which is similar for some B&BI do the siding, then install the window with flanges over the T1-11, adhesive caulk behind flange, and then use 1x4 or whatever to case it out, but here is the key - I try to plan things so that the frieze is the head casing as well, along witha decent roof overhang, there is not too much chance of water getting to the head flashing and at the bottom of the window, the flage is shedding over the t1-11
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I think they make it in 1/4", at least it appears that way on some houses. I wouldn't use T1-11 for a doghouse.
For years now, sheds is all I have used it on, but it was more common once. I did use it on a really nice place. The sheathing was 1/2" CDX and then the Cedar T1-11 over it up to waist line at bottom of windows, then a synthetic stucco above to the frieze. He keeps it well painted too
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I don't mean to be prejudiced against it, I've just seen it badly applied to often. I once used cedar T1-11 and then applied cedar battens over it. Looked pretty good.
For things like sheds, it is usuallu used for sheathing, but you hjave to chck your local permitting/inspection authority. I doubt it makes a seismic shear wall for California or Dade County.
Windows are a bit of a sore [point, because it is impossible to do them accordong to best standards and practices. You have to rely on some caulk and good luck. Either way works. You can install the window flages to the framing and then cut the T1-11 carefully around them and caulk or you can instal the flages to the T1-11 and then caulk and rrim out with casing and more caulk.
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Wether it's T-111 or 3/8" fir you'll have to use a bit of caulking and maybe a wider eave or higher roof line to move most of the wet weather away.
On mine here I haven't put the windows yet just faked out with mullions and screening but I intend to build a couple of windows this winter.
View Image
Edited 9/25/2006 3:21 pm by jagwah
I did use celotex under the siding.
That is along the lines if what I am looking for.
I have decided to install CDX wall sheathing first, windows along with appropriate weather protection then the T1-11. I am planning to install "genuine" battens over the grooves in the T1-11 for additional shadow line.
The textured T1-11 is providing the base for the overall wood effect in a more efficient & less costly manner than actual board & batten. It may turn out that the grooves in the T1-11 provide sufficient shadow... I will wait and see how it looks. Or rather SWMBO will determine the course of action :)
D.
David,
Might I make a suggestion? Have you ever considered using LP's inner seal siding called Smartpanel? It's basically an OSB siding with a textured hardboard face 8" o/c. I've been building sheds exclusively now for 8 years and I can't say enough about this stuff over T1-11. I personally love the look of T1-11 but have had it bubble up because of voids between the plys. Even with the A grade stuff. That's never been an issue with the Smartpanel......just a thought.
Hey, I'm building a 12x16 tomorrow :)
Vester
i'm glad to hear about that. I've seen more voids in t1-11 over the years .Generally I am no fan of LP products tho, but I keep an open mind. Well, cracked half open anyway, LOL
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Well, ya got the cracked part right, anyway (|;>)SamT
Hmmm ok I have been educated... upon further inspection of my materials quote, I am going to be using the LP SmartPanel II. I actually thought all T1-11 was essentially the same thing.
T-1-11 works as a sheathing and siding in combo - its whole purpose. If you use vinyl windows (nailing fin), then you have to route out the back of the board for 1 x 4 trim, to fit it over the flange and behind the window trim itself. If its just a shed, easier to use wood windows and trim them out the old fashioned way. Why have thermal pane glass on a shed anyway?
Here in Northern Calif. 5/8ths
t1-11 can be used as 3/8ths shear. Most of the nailing pattern is 6" on edges and 12" in the field. Although I have seen it on 4" edge nailing shear panels.
I know the stuff does not hold up very well if the wall has any kind of sun/wind /rain exposure.
Not my personal choice. But I've put up a few hundred sheets.
matt
David - if you aren't looking for the stained effect, hardie panel looks just like T111 and doesn't rot. Battens over the grooves look even better. A piece of osb inside each corner and racking problems are solved.