Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jul 21, 2006 05:48am | #1

   safety glasses ...

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   PeteDraganic | Aug 07, 2006 05:58pm | #20

   Safety Glasses?

   I was going to tell him to squint.

   The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. -Albert Einstein

   http://www.peteforgovernor.com

2. 
   trout | Jul 21, 2006 05:56am | #2

   Just go slow and carefully.  If it binds on the blade the kickback is quick so keep it against the fence and watch those fingers.

   Safety glasses are a must.

3. 
   BruceT999 | Jul 21, 2006 07:09am | #3

   Cut slowly.

   Aluminum likes slower saw blade speed. If you can't change rpm's, you might try a smaller blade - smaller blade has the same effect as slowing a big blade.

   If you can't go with EZSmart, how about a piece of plywood on top of the window frame for your circ saw table to run on and a straight edge clamped on that for a saw guide?

   Good luck

   BruceT

4. 
   james | Jul 21, 2006 07:15am | #4

   Probably bad for your TS, I killed a bosch TS cutting alloy sheet ( .060 ), somehow got into the motor and well, alloy is conductive and sharp... end result dead saw >(.

    

   james

5. 
   jarhead | Jul 21, 2006 10:44am | #5

   As James said, I would worry about the metal getting into the motor of the table saw. I have used miter saws to cut alum. and had no problems, just cut slow. Obviously a miter saw wouldn't work in your situation...... How about using a circular saw and tape where the saw would rest on the windows? I have done this same method with aluminum doors. Worked very good. I had a circular saw with a guide built into the saw, adjusted the guide to the width you need to cut then cut slowly.

   Edited: to add that I used a new carbide blade and the aluminum will build up on the blade.

                                           Semper Fi

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/21/2006 3:47 am ET by Jarhead

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 22, 2006 03:14am | #14

   I'm surprised a TS came with anything other than a TEFC motor.  Even with wood, dust buildup would eventually overheat and fry an open motor. 

   In metalworking, bees waxs is what I used to use for aluminum.  Never did run a carbide blade backwards, though.  I'd be afraid of breaking the carbide off.  But maybe that's less of a problem now than it was in the early days of carbide.   

    

   -- J.S.

    

6. 
   43Billh | Jul 21, 2006 01:16pm | #6

   This might be a good job for the router table ( if you have one ) and a straight cutting bit. As others have said back your cut with a piece of scrap.

   Safety glasses, and hearing protection mandatory. Long selves optional ( chips are hot )

   Bill

7. 
   gb93433 | Jul 21, 2006 08:54pm | #7

   Button up your shirt all the way and wear good eye protection. The chips do not feel good coming down your chest.

1. 
   Farmdog | Jul 21, 2006 09:24pm | #8

   Even one of those face masks helps.  Those chips on the face aren't fun.

   A good carbide blade is very versatile.

1. 
   wane | Jul 21, 2006 10:34pm | #9

   I'm missing something, is this alu brick mold??, who didn't order the correct size to fit your opening .. its going to look like crap, the blade won't cut 1/16, it will just grind ... hmm buy a $600 window and hack it to bits??

2. 
   RobWes | Jul 21, 2006 10:35pm | #10

   A little light oil like kero or even WD40 will help.

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 21, 2006 10:45pm | #11

   actually wax, either parrafin or bees, is the recommended lube for cutting or routing aluminum of this nature.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " I am not an Activist, I am, a Catalyst. I lay around and do nothing, until another ingredient is added"

1. 
   RobWes | Jul 22, 2006 12:56am | #12

   As a former prototype and tool and die maker I respectfully disagree. I left out cutting fluids for a reason. Most people do not have access to them at a reasonable cost.

   We all may have differant methods for our projects.

8. 
   Brian | Jul 22, 2006 01:43am | #13

   When I was learning and cutting sheet metal for pole barns we would use the saw with blades reversed - less chance of kickback.  I'm not sure that would work on thicker aluminum, but I have used the miter saw (blade normal) to cut aluminum with no precautions except slowing the cut - it does a great job. 

   Do you have a piece to practice on?

   What about sandwiching it between pieces of wood?

   The Ezsmart would indeed be great for this job.

    

   Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
9. 
   willyx2 | Aug 03, 2006 05:54am | #15

   Thanks for all your responses regarding the window trim.  I've plunked down alot of money for the replacement windows and want to do this right.  Safety issues - metal shavings......go slow, seems to be the common thread.. a metal working buddy said cutting the aluminum on a table saw makes a lot of racket... ear protection also a must. 

   CHEERS WILLYX2

    

1. 
   apiersma | Aug 03, 2006 01:19pm | #16

   Never done it myself, but I have heard that reversing the blade works wonders. Test it on scap to verify.

1. 
   willyx2 | Aug 07, 2006 04:36am | #17

   Thanks for the heads up, on the blade.  Ive heard that option also, when I practice on some pieces i'll definetly give that a shot, since I have 8" carbide blades.

   willy

    

10. 
    OverKnight | Aug 07, 2006 02:30pm | #18

    My father used to moonlight installing aluminum windows and doors. He always used what appeared to be a simple non-carbide plywood blade (he had them sharpened frequently) and he always lubricated the blade with beeswax; this was on an early 1960's 10" Craftsman table saw that my brother is still using. It was a little louder than cutting wood, but he never used hearing or eye protection (not to say that he shouldn't have...).

1. 
   bjr | Aug 07, 2006 04:16pm | #19

   I've successfully and safely ripped 1/2" aluminum on my makita 8" table saw several times with your standard issue carbide blade for general cutting from the lumber yard. I covered myself all up with long sleeves, safety glasses/face shield and ear plugs cause it's LOUD and messy !!!!

   If you have a helper have them spray on WD40 to cool the blade as it cuts through the material. For the thick stuff I made a couple of passes at shallow blade depths and raised the blade a little each pass. It sounds like you are cutting through a window flange of some sorts and if it's about 1/16" you should have no problem but do hold you materiel tight to the fence and as always watch for kickback.

   BjR

1. 
   willyx2 | Aug 07, 2006 06:53pm | #22

   Will do thanks

2. 
   willyx2 | Aug 07, 2006 06:52pm | #21

   Thank you for your reply.  Sounds like the table saw is the way to go using it slowly and deliberately, will use the bees wax