Grant will be putting the copper roof on my beach house this June, hopefully. For the porch roof, I want to look up at something with more character, not plywood. I was thinking of v groove cedar, but the lumber salesman thought 2×6 v groove doug fir would do fine, it would be covered with copper standing seam. Got me to thinking, no v groove, just 2×6 doug fir, cuts down on cost. If there’s slight gapping, I don’t mind that, but I don’t want problems with the roof as a result.
What do you guys think?
Kevin
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I've often made Vee and center beaded work from "stock" lumber. Fer instance, exposed underside flooring, I ran a bead witha champher on the tongue edges and and the other half of the Vee on the groove edges. That finishes out as a Bead and Vee.
Adding a center bead can be done with a table saw and molding head. The edge bead and Vee parts can be done with a router.
Lots a ways to get what you want if you have a few cutters. And yes, I have done it with hand planes, but you do NOT want to go there. LOL.
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Edited 5/8/2009 7:40 pm ET by Sphere
"Fer instance, exposed underside flooring"So the flooring is the ceiling to the room below? That's more or less what this job will be, roof decking for standing seam. 2x instead of 1x so the nails don't show.I was looking at some shapers at harbor freight, not that expensive. With the cutting heads it'll get close to the price of already milled stuff, but at the end of the day, you end up with a new tool. Not bad.Think Doug fir is OK for my application? No direct weather exposure, unless you count moisture in the air.
Exactly.
I'd say you could use 3/4" and lay 1/2" ply over that. The nails he uses are 1 1/4" so it's close.
I'm iffy on a tool like that from HF, a sears molding head is reasonable, and versatile. That is only if you want a center bead, you can rip the bevels and just rout the edge bead, or skip that and just bevel both edges.
You can also T&G with just a table saw and dado.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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You are installing a copper roof and you want to buy a cutter at Harbor Freight! Avoid the pain and go to a professional supply house for a real tool. Better yet, just purchase the material ready nade.
LOL. I bought the Bostich pneumatic floor stapler instead of renting to install about 700 sq ft. After I had bought it, people here told me about Harbor reight, there tool would have worked fine and cost less. I wouldn't use the tool like a guy doing it everyday.
Having said all the above, I'll probably just buy ready made, the time it would take to mill my own takes away from time with the kids.
Thanks
Kevin
I think you are on the right track now. Although what you are proposing as far as making the deck boards is a straight-forward operation it will nevertheless take time to procure, prep and run the material. Things always look easier than they seem. Buy it ready made and maybe spend your time selecting out the best pieces for the job at the lumberyard.
If you have a router table, you can get a v-joint t&g set on ebay for about 30$
And if you don't have a router table, you can get that on ebay too, for about $200. Also check CraigsList.org, maybe someone selling one in your area.
~ Ted W ~
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Edited 5/8/2009 10:53 pm by Ted W.
It would take some time with a router, I'm leaning towards a shaper, something with some serious HP. Of course, I could just buy the straightest boards I can find and butt them up tight, forget the V groove all together.
You don't need that much HP to cut slots and grooves on the edge of even big boards like the 2x's you are talking about.
I have the bosch plunge/fixed deal, and the bosch router table. I think the router is 2 1/4hp.
I'd check it out. Seasonal movement might be enough for you to wish those gaps up there had tounge btw them instead of black spaces.
:-)