I seem to recall a discussion on this topic earlier but can’t find any reference in a quick search of past posts.
In our existing house we have 20 year old or so semi-gloss latex painted drywall with a light texture spray. Due to all the remodeling we’re doing, about half the wall surfaces end up being replaced with new drywall.
I realize it would be a lot easier to texture the new stuff to match the old but I’m not a real fan of textured walls in the first place. In the kitchen there was much less old wall surface than ew so I troweled out the old texture with general purpase Beadex taping mud with very good results. But taping mud is, for me, difficult to work with compared to plaster materials. I’m much handier with a hock & trowel than I am with a taping knife and mud pan. Plus I hate sanding as much as it takes me to get a smooth wall.
Thus the question (finally) – is there a product out there like veneer plaster that will adhere faithfully to the painted surface of the old walls? Regular veneer plaster with a bonding agent perhaps. Given that the paint is sound, etc. – I’d be much more comfy working with a plster based/typ of material than I am with taping mud.
Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
Oh – the other option of course would be to simply go over all the existing walls with a new layer of 1/4″ drywall screwed and glued (using drywall bud & a knotched trowel).
Replies
Dennis,
Since you mention that you feel uncorfortable with taping mud, why then would you consider installing 1/4 inch drywall overtop of everything? You would then have to tape all the seams, and even skim coat the drywall to prevent "ghosting." All of this would involve extensive mud work.
As for using a hawk and a trowel, go ahead. You can install mud using these tools; especially when skimming out large areas. You do not have to use a pan and a taping knife to get results.
When you said "taping mud," I'm assuming you are using fast-dry joint compound( such as the 20 minute/ 45 minute and or 90 minute dry-mix bags) that you mix with water? If so, mix it a little on the stiff side if you like the weight and feel of it that way ( similar to plaster). But, put the mud coat on THIN...build up the coats...that way, no sanding ( or at least very little sanding) is involved. By using the fast dry kind of mixes, you can skim several coats overtop in a few hours time; unlike using regular all- purpose joint compound; which takes all day to set up properly.
If you have good plaster techniques with a trowel, then you really should not be having any problems with substituting joint compound for plaster. The same techniques should carry you through.
Davo
Thanks for the reply, Davo.
I don't have too much trouble with all new drywall, taping and finishing. It's when I'm working with existing stuff and trying to blend out joints where the old stuff is at times as much as 1/8" proud of new work, feathering out that 'hump' in the wall to be as unnoticable as possible.
Yesterday I tried using platering techniques on part of a wall that had had time to pretty much dry out. This was patching in an opening where a door was removed. Again, there were some horrific joint offsets to contend with. By sprinkling the surface with a water brush and troweling over and over I could 'bring back' a slight surface skin and move the finish around a little to produce a pretty good wall.
Now that I think about it, I realize the better way to approach this would be to shim the new board to meet the old stuff more closely.
I'll try a bit of the hot mud and see if it works any better.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
"Now that I think about it, I realize the better way to approach this would be to shim the new board to meet the old stuff more closely...."
Absolutely! If you are using 1/2 inch and you are shy an 1/8th, then definately staple shims to your studs before installing the board....or, if you are continously just 1/8th shy throughout, substitute 5/8 drywall for the 1/2 inch. The 5/8s will cost a lil more and be a bit heavier, but if it would meet up to the old stuff OK, then that would be the ticket I would opt for.
LOL.
Davo
When I work with my father-in-law, a retired plasterer with 40+ years on the job, he uses Weldbond under the veneer as a bonding agent.
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/weldbond1.htm
I think I would check with USG on this one. I've worked quite a bit with a plasterer who uses USG Diamond Finish interior plaster over all sorts of stuff with great results. He often primes surfaces with existing finishes on them, and sometimes installs fiberglass mesh as well. I don't know the specifics but there are doubtless bonding agents you can use, and USG has tech reps that will tell you. After you finish your house, c'mon over here and help me out.