I’ve got a vinyl deck over a living area – basement – with a door that leads to the main floor living area.
What is the best practice for installing the door and the exterior wall with respect to the vinyl if I am rebuilding that exterior wall at the same time as the deck?
Should the vinyl be installed first and come underneath the threshold of the door such that the threshold weep will weep onto the vinyl? In that case how do you terminiate the vinyl on the inside? Keep it a flush cut with the interior side of the bottom plate that you cut out for the door? and have the vinyl up the side of the jamb on each side of the door? or possibly leave a little extra vinyl at the interior side of the removed section of bottom plate that is pulled up and glue to the interior face of the threshold?
Sorry kind of hard to describe the details that I am interested in. I hope that I articulated the finer points well enough.
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Sounds like this is an existing, and one important detail you don't mention is how high the RO for door is above the finished elevation of the deck, regardless of materials used, that should be a min 4" max 7"
Then I run roof membrane up and in.
Seat a door pan over it with appropriate caulk, then install door into a couple beads of caulk.
Reason for mentioning "appropriate" for caulk is that not all caulks are right for all membranes, all climates, and all door threshold materials.
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I subbed out this work and what I got was the kitchen sub floor level with the exterior deck floor. The joists underneath were replaced and these joists support 3' of the kitchen and 6' of deck. Without changing the joist direction how would you have achieved your 4" difference in floor and deck height? Keep in mind that the ceiling below should remain the same. You can't really notch 4" out of a 2x8 joist to keep the exterior deck 4" lower. Even if you ran the joists such that the kitchen and the deck were different your underdeck ceiling would no longer be the flush with your under kitchen ceiling. The only option I can see to achieve the 4" different would be to accept a non-flush under ceiling or perhaps use something structurally equivalent to a 2x8 that is 4" tall - steel?I see decks built all the time that have their elevation the same as the interior - I take it these would violate your best practice of 4" height difference?I am in the pacific northwest so we don't typically get snow - which might be the main reason for wanting a 4-7" difference in height. I do agree that a non-trivial height difference does make the most amount of sense.Thank you for the reply.
With what you have, your only recourse is to caulk the snot out of it and hope for the best. No roofer will warrantee something like what you have. It's bad design from the start.There are ways to achieve it, but I do not have all the other info about your job, and I've sure you don't want to backtrack now.
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I've got a vinyl deck over a living area - basement
Should the vinyl be installed first?
Maybe you do not have this vinyl on already and it is possible to backtrack...???
Is the deck only 6' out? Of so 2x6 framing could handle it depending on other factors.
Is it cantilevered or does it bear on a wall at the outside?
Is there a wall directly under the door?
Is this new or a rebuild?
what other pertinent structural details are we missing?
can you post a digital photo of the area above and below?
regardless of the above, I still regard this as poor design. extending joists through from inside to outside is bad practice that almost always causes problems.
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One thing to bear in mind is that the vinyl decking lifetime is really only around 10-15 years so this will have to be redone in the future. I am also interested in case this project comes up again. I think the next time I'd go for a concrete deck as that should last indefinitely - I didn't realize the vinyl was such a short lived product.The deck is about 7'x7' in area.The 2x8 are running perpendicular to the rough opening of the door and are about 10' long. They are not cantilevered. Underneath the deck is inside and under the kitchen is inside so the joists aren't really going outside.This is a renovation to existing but the foundation under the deck is new. The portion of the kitchen floor that was replaced used to be cantilevered now it is part of the deck joists.No wall directly under the door but there is a built up beam 3' back and the joists are hung off that with full bearing on a wall with a concrete foundation on the other end.You are correct that I probably could have had 2x6s supporting the deck. I guess 2" difference would be better than what I have now - next time - that still doesn't give you your 4" minimum.I don't have any pictures on me right now, I'll see if I can dig some up.Given my current situation you'd caulk the outside face of the door threshold to the deck and then hope that the door weep is never needed? Thanks for the discussion and advice.
"Given my current situation you'd caulk the outside face of the door threshold to the deck and then hope that the door weep is never needed? "No - would caulk under the thresh as the door is installed, and at bottom corner of jamb in the shim space for a few inches up.What you describe sounds bad from a structural POV also, not just the water situation.Gotta get off to work or I'd scketch up a current as described and a properly designed for this situation. Is the wall this door is in a load bearing wall of in a gable end of the house?
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I took a look at the graphic guide to frame construction for the deck details and it looks like they say the level can be the same but should be lower to account for snow loads. Given we get almost no snow and that this corner of the house is heavily sheltered I think this shouldn't be an issue - not to say that it shouldn't have been made lower.So for the caulking you would caulk the inside face of the threshold and inside corner when the door is installed which would allow the outside weep face of the threshold to weep, correct?The structural question is a little more difficult to answer. In 1920 the door would have been overtop of the wall below and it is in the wall that supports the rake of the roof. In 1950 an extension was added and the door was moved out the 3 feet, thus the built up beam 3 feet before the door. So the door wall should be alright as it is really supporting just a 3' horz span of the roof + 3' of overhanging roof.
no again.I would caulk UNDER the thresh before installing the door and seat that threshold INTO the caulk. This is the detail that every door company shows in their install directions.IS this wall a load bearing wall???????
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Yes the wall is load bearing it is 6' long. The rake of the roof sits on it but the total length of the rafters are 6' long, 18" oc and there is no structure above the wall except the roof. There is no direct load path below this wall into the foundation but given it isn't bearing much of a roof load I don't see this as an issue - I could be wrong.Thank you for the discussion sorry if I am missing your points or doing a poor job answering your questions.Here is an example of a door installation detail for caulking. Is this how you typically do it? I found the instructions a little surprising as I expected the threshold weep to extend back further than one inch.>>Apply two generous beads of caulk along the subsill an inch inside the front and rear edges of where the sill will be placed. Extend the caulk a couple of inches up the sides of the rough framing.
Yes on the caulk.Since this is a rake wallon the roof, it might not bear load. If it were aneave of roof, it would bear that roof load and would almost certainly make the floor joists sag there and create a puddle right where you don'
t want it.As is, you have a 50-50 chance that it won't
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