Replies

1. 
   bake | Dec 04, 2003 11:27pm | #1

   I just did my first last week and used cardboard to make a template, worked great and allowed me to include toekicks for the kitchen cabenets from one piece.

   You may try going here       http://www.quikship.com/nrha/VINYL/VINYL.HTM

   bake

2. 
   JeffBuck | Dec 05, 2003 05:55am | #2

   depends on the size/shape and obstructions of the room.

   sometimes make paper templates ...

   sometimes just cut it big ... unroll it in the room ... and start the final cut.

   If you do unroll it in the room .. just be sure to not crease it.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

3. 
   NickNukeEm | Dec 05, 2003 06:41am | #3

   Go to HD/Lowes.  In the flooring dept they have a $10/11 kit that includes a bunch of paper, notched trowel for the adhesive, razor knife, and an instruction booklet that can be helpful.  On those rooms that have a complex footprint, I will make a full sized template by taping pieces of paper together, laying it out over the vinyl, and cutting it out.  I only do it this way if there are baseboards to be applied later, because I cut the flooring slightly smaller so it will fit. 

   Key to vinyl's success is a stable/level floor beneath it.  I usually laydown 1/4" underlayment (after filling in any depressions) and then put a floor leveler down on top of that, then sand the leveler smooth prior to laying the floor.  (Vinyl can telegraph seams, etc. that are below it, so any blemishes should be worked out before laying down the flooring.)

   Gotta admit, I renovated a bathroom last month that connected to the kitchen and the HO wanted the same vinyl in the BR and kitchen.  I called a flooring company I sometimes use and didn't regret it one bit.

   BTW, I've laid down enough vinyl to know that using a J-roller to remove all the air bubbles will just make you sweat and curse.  Rent a floor roller (a steel drum).  It will do the job the J-roller wasn't really designed to do.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
4. 
   fortdh | Dec 05, 2003 09:31pm | #4

   I know of a house that had a floor redo after a major water leak problem.

   After new plywood, 1/4" board was installed and leveled. Since all base cabinents and appliances were out of the room, the owner asked for a totally seamless installation. The installer said "can do".

   He rolled the vinyl out in the drive way and rerolled it the long dimension, about 26-28 feet. Installed it wall to wall, including two pantries, breakfast room, and one bath, and the kitchen, no seams.

   Owner installed floor drains under the refrig, the sink cabinent and the dishwasher that tie together in basement and aim into laundry tub. He also put a bead of silcone caulk around perimeter before shoe molding went back. Kitchen is now a 1/2" deep "pool liner". Looks great after 12 years. Actually saved the installer some work, because of not trimming around the cabs and appliances. Paul

   Energy Consultant and author of Practical Energy Cost Reduction for the Home
5. 
   TMinor | Dec 06, 2003 06:41pm | #5

   I don't know if I'm doing it right. But it seems to have worked for me.

   I just cut a full piece almost two feet over the room dimension for slop. Orient it in place and slowly trim the over slop perimeter back to about 2in. past where you would do your final cut. I then roll half the floor back, carefully making sure the sheet does not slide. Apply the adhesive with the appropriate sized toothed trowel. Then gently roll it back into place. starting from the center then moving out so that an air bubble does not get trapped under the sheet. I repeat the process on the other half of the sheet. I then smooth the whole sheet out working out the air starting from the center. I then do my final cut carefully trimming it tight against the wall, cabinets, and or tub using a drywall taping knife and utility knife. (work slow and careful when doing the final cut) Caulk where necessary.

   -TMinor