Believe it or not, I’ve never installed a replacement window. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of a zillion new construction windows… but never a vinyl replacement. Never installed vinyl siding either, for that matter.
But I’ve been asked to do so for a family member (windows, not siding). Seems like a good opportunity to learn something new and help out at the same time. So what’s the deal? Is this something I need see someone do before I do it myself? Or is it pretty straight forward? Anything to watch out for? What’s the difference between a replacement job done well and just done?
Edited 4/14/2009 8:39 pm ET by dieselpig
Replies
IMHO it what you are replacing makes all the difference.
I'd rather put replacements in 1940 wood widows with sash weights any day rather then 1980 aluminum windows in a brick facade.
1940 wood widows with sash weights
This is EXACTLY what they're going into. No brick either. I replaced all their siding and trim with Hardie and Azek last year. View Image
everyone has their own favorite way , but I remove old sashes & pulleys, open sash weight pockets, remove weights fill w/ insulation, if old frame is in good shape add caulk to exterior stops, slide new vinyl into opening & against stops, level sill, shim & plumb sides , check for square, if all good screw in place, go back & check operation, install insulation around, caulk, new interior stops, usually cap exterior w/ Aluminum trim.
Just talk them into buying the best replacement window they can afford, there is alot of garbage out there!
Good Luck
Thanks very much. I've suggested Harvey windows to them. Not sure if they're nationally available or not, but they have a good name in my area. I suggested them because I use to own a house that had Harvey replacement windows and I thought they seemed pretty decent for a vinyl window. I also suggested Anderson Renewal. I have never even seen an Anderson Renewal but I really like Anderson 400's as a good basic window and Anderson's customer service is top notch in my area. And I've obviously told them that I'm making suggestions virtually blind as I don't have experience with any of these. So I really appreciate advice and suggestions from you guys.View Image
United window is a pretty nice vinyl replacement as well. I get them through National Lumber. What I like is they have double sash locks. Not just one lock in the middle of the sash. It makes a much tighter seal. Harvey vinyl replacements might be the same way, i'm not quite sure.
Brian, they are easy that a monkey like me even has no problem. Harvey is a very good brand to use.
Only thing I would add is to make sure they get the windows that qualify for the tax credit. 30, 30 is the rule.
Thanks for the help everybody. I was doing some work up there today for them... tearing down a kitchen wall and getting ready to install a beam in it's place. He said he's going with Anderson replacement units from Home Depot. I forget the model #'s, but HD is running a sale where you get the next series up for the same price as the basic series or some such deal. These are the ones that do in fact qualify for the tax credit.
He has done all the measuring and ordering, but I did check with him to see that he was measuring appropriately and not measuring stop to stop.View Image
I just ordered 2 today, no special price to me. I think I had better call them!
Brian, I have put in many, many of them. If you get stuck, which I can't imagine.
Edited 4/15/2009 6:54 pm ET by frammer52
Maybe you have to order a certain number of 'em? I dunno. He's ordering about 16 of them I think.View Image
could be.
after he gets his price, have him take it to the pro desk. They will work with you on volume pricing.
That's a good idea. The Pro Desk has actually been pretty good to me in the past...specifically when I was replacing tools after the trailer theft.View Image
Brian - I can't believe you'd need my advice but I just installed over 20 vinyl replacement windows a couple months ago so this is all fresh in my mind. I agree with virtually all of the advice given to this point ... maybe a step-by-step summary would be helpful:
1. Buying - I intended to go the HD route as I have in the past but on a whim decided to randomly call a guy advertising in the paper to see if the installed price might approach the HD price (as it often does, for example on insulation). The first guy I called did in fact offer to install windows at the same cost as buying them at HD and installing them myself. Since I had the time and wanted to save a buck I asked if he would just sell me the windows - he quoted a price that blew me away - about 60% of the HD price IIRC and he seemed happy for the business. Worth looking into.
My guy (I've now used him for two jobs) is in the Boston area (Melrose) and delivers. The brand he sells is "Alside Geneva", lowE argon, all custom sizes (nothing in stock), can get them with or without grids (inside of glass), delivered. The quality has been excellent to my eye but I don't claim to be an expert. Let me know if you want his name - I have no connection to him other than finding him reliable and credible and just a generally good guy.
2. Measuring - well covered in previous posts.
3. Notes
a)I kit-up my tools on a rolling cart and cruise window to window - very efficient
b)My pace is about 1 per hour - I'm sure anyone can do it faster. My supplier says he does about 1.5 per hour. Says the fastest he's heard is 20 / day but it's shoddy work.
4. Steps
a) remove side stops (as mentioned, expect to excavate screw heads). Suggest running a razor along paint line to get these off in good shape.
b) remove outer sash (cut weight ropes- I suppose I should also insert in here all my mistakes - slash razor away from yourself in this step!)
c) carefully remove one parting bead, outer sash, then other parting bead, then inner sash. Remove storms. Try to get the parting beads out whole - they may have another application (see below). Often somebody has driven a finish nail into the parting bead and it snaps when you try to pull it out.
d) remove top stop - usually attached with finish nails.
e) open cavities and remove weights, remove pulleys above
f) stuff cavites with insulation - I use one of the parting beads - usually a broken one because a whole one is too long - to slide the insulation in. I cut a strip of insulation about 4" wide x the height of the cavity (which is taller than it looks - poke around). I can usually slide it about 3/4 in before it all binds up - then I tear off the piece that doesn't fit and try to drive it down through the pulley holes - I think this is reasonably effective but far from perfect.
g) test fit - Seems unnecessary because of course you would never mis-measure and they would never ship you the wrong size, but it also helps you make sure it's right side up and right side in before you get it all gooped up with caulk (hint - screen goes out. I only installed the heaviest, hardest to reach ones the wrong way!)
h) there are 2 parts supplied with the window - a 1" vinyl strip that snaps into the bottom outside edge to close the gap in the sloping pan, and a press-on channel on top that gives you a nice snug fit top to bottom. I fill the cavities created by both of these with more fiberglass (there is some foam on top but I think the extra fiberglass helps.
i) when you are finally ready to install, remove the plastic covers to allow access to the screw holes, run a nice bead of caulk around the entire perimeter on the outer stop (I caulk there rather than on the window because it's less messy). I'd use silicone or a 40 year latex). I also run a bead of caulk along the top, where that top channel will go against the opening. Tilt it into place with the sash locked so it's square. Check for square and level if you want (this sounds nuts but I stopped doing this after a couple - it was ALWAYS square and level). Press very hard at the top and drive in the top screws. The ones provided are junk and the heads will strip if you don't get a good position on them and keep good pressure on your driver. I found it's easiest to open the window and screen at this point so my driver was squared up to the screw. I used an impact driver but kept a few 3" galvy screws handy to replace stripped ones. Check window operation to make sure everything opens smoothly.
j) there is usually a gap between the stool and the new window - it's unlikely that the thickness will be exactly the same as the combined thickness of the original two sashes. I cut the beads to length and slipped two of them into the gap to fill that space. YMMV. Usually I had to pound them in which drove the window snug against the outer beads. Then I drive in the two bottom screws and replace the plastic covers. Check window operation to make sure everything opens smoothly.
k) Reinstalling the stops presents an interesting problem. If you want the stop to go back in the same location where it was there will be a gap to fill between it and the window. I found this annoying, so I move the stops tight to the new window, which meant the trim detail wasn't the same as before, but once it was painted it looked fine. The upper stop will need to be ripped (the off-cut is another source of material to fill the gap in the previous step).
l) caulk and paint.
Have fun ... Bill.
It's pretty straight forward. The only difference from what your used to, is removing the old window. Pull of the blind stop carefully, cause it has to be reused. If it's an old window w/weights, chances are it is screwed on w/3 or 4 wood screws. This makes it nice to remove, you just have to clean the paint out of the slot first. Then remove the sashes along with the parting bead. Next pull the access panel in the frame to remove the weights.
Once the weights are removed I stuff the cavity with insulation. A piece of the old parting bead works well to push the insulation up the cavity. To me insulating that huge air pocket is the most important thing in a window replacement being done right. I also like to put a good bead of caulk all the way around the inside of the opening where the window will butt the back side of the exterior casing.
I forgot to mention that I find removing the storm windows first is easier. This way you can see what's going on with the exterior of the window while your trying to install it.
I hope this info helps, sorry if I stated some of the obvious. Once you start on the first one it will all make sense. Any other questions just let me know.
Plan for the first one to take about 10 times as long as the next one.
The different brands all have different install methods but should come with pretty complete instructions.
If they're 1940's wood windows and you need to remove/replace any wood part?
Make sure you have a small pry bar, SHARP knife, sharp 5-1 painters tool, good nailsets and a good set of screwdrivers handy. I think someone else said it....the wood's gonna be dry and brittle.
Other than that? If you can frame a house you can drop in some replacement windows. In most cases the hardest part is measuring and ordering them properly.
Thanks Robert. I like the hand tool checklist too... I've got that covered.View Image
Go on Jeld-Wen's website and you can see how to put in their Zap Packs ( I think the easiest of all). Or try American Craftsmans/Silverline for a full replacement.
I've done vinyl retro's more than a few times Both in the block and stucco flange in sliders, casement and single hung, I prefer the Jeld Wen over IWC. Jeld Wen available at H.D.. Some instock sizes at some stores. IWC lets you order some larger windows pre-mulled. Jeldwen are a cleaner looking install. HD's pricing is pretty good and you can get volume pricing for a regular size home order.
Use the Vulcum style urethane adhesives. I can't remember the other one I get at the HVAC shop.
Two limeades and tequila and the brain don't work too well.
I've had good luck using Simonton brand replacement windows.
Everyone here has given you good info regarding insulating the sash weight cavities and being careful with removing the parting beads etc. The main difference with a vinyl replacement window is that you normally get these custom made at the factory to fit your existing window opening...so measuring is the key.
You need to measure the horizontal opening from jamb to jamb and the vertical opening from sill to header jamb. When measuring the width, I string out my tape near the bottom, near the top, and near the middle. The smallest reading of these 3 measurements is what I record. I take 3 measurements for the vertical height as well, and again record the smallest reading. These 2 readings are what you give to the sales person taking your order.
Please be aware that all companies will fabricate the window size slightly smaller than the dimensions you give so to insure the window will indeed fit in the existing opening. How much they cut down the window is determined by each individual manufacturer. Simonton usually cuts the overall width and height by at least a 1/4 inch unless you instruct otherwise.
Most manufacturers cut their windows either on the 1/8th inch scale or many use 1/4 inch increments. There are several ways in which you can place your order to the sales person. You can order it so that each window is cut down from your desired given measurement, or you can ask that no adjustments be made to the dimensions you are giving. Make sure you and your salesperson who is writing down your order are on the same page...so to speak.
Most sloppy looking window jobs are due to placing improper orders...many times the window units are too small...requiring the use of thicker trim stops or using vinyl head expander trim, that gets pop riveted to the top of the window unit...which looks horrible. If measured right, the window should fit properly using the existing jamb stops and only require very light caulking.
Hope this helps.
Davo
I have some Caradco brand replacements that have wood on the inside and are clad on the outside. IMHO they look a lot better that all vinyl, as you can stain the wood on the inside.
Be careful taking the first strip off the inside of the window - The old wood can be pretty brittle, and you need to reuse the pieces.
[Rod Stewart, 50, on his plans for more kids with his wife, Rachel Hunter, 25]
Just a quick emphasis on what Dave mentioned about measuring the height. Make sure you measure to the JAMB and not the stop. The head stop is sometimes wider than the side stops so it can be easy to make the mistake of only measuring to the underside of the head stop.
Harvey has a nice replacement with wood interior & alum clad exterior.(more expensive)
Pella has a replacement window built with a composite fiberglass designed to compete with vinyl & is supposed to be more durable.
Don't forget to consider ordering windows that meet the tax refund requirements.
Good luck
George