I’ve installed plenty of vinyl siding over the years but all has been on new construction, OSB. A client contacted me the other day about installing vinyl over concrete block. My only thought is to strap the entire block building with furring strips and hang the vinyl on that. However I have some concerns with this procedure, due to the lack of backing for the vinyl between the furring strips.
Anybody have first hand experience hanging vinyl in this manner that can shed some light on my concerns or have a (cost effective) alternative?
Scott R.
Replies
Scott,
I have done a number of jobs as you described both new and remodel.
I used to fur out and foam in between, which would generally be considered the best way. I'm not so sure about that anymore. We have furred alot of foundations, and skipped the foam in between contrary to most manufacturers recommendations that the siding have continuous backing. I generally use the upper end siding materials that are both thicker in guage, and have some type of horizontal reinforcement. Alside Charter Oak, and a Wolverine product with a fiberglass reinforcement rod are two that come to mind although any product with a 5/8" or thicker butt would be in that category. I can assure you that many years later you cannot tell the difference between either method.
About 10 or 12 years ago we did an addition where the siding on the foundation had been nailed on with 1" fluted masonry nails. We were surprised by this because there was no indication that these areas looked any different thatn the rest of the house. I thought this method looked like a real chore, driving that quantity of masonry nails.
A few years ago we did some siding work for a very large builder in our area and they insisted that we nail directly to the masonry using this method as they have been doing it for twenty years. To make a long story short, that is the method we generally use now and I am kicking myself in the butt for all the additional energy and supplies I expended doing it the "right" way. I specifically remember a house we did that was all block and we spent about a week tapconing and gluing furring to it. Looking back now, I think I spent alot of my customers money unnecessarily.
One thing I will guarantee is that if the masonry is decent, it will generally lay much flatter and stay much flatter than siding nailed over wood framing, or for that matter furring.
A good tip is that since nailing the accessories on requires the closest nail spacing, we nail a little looser, say 24" o.c. and glue in beween using a good tripolymer caulk such as Geocel 2300.
Tom
Tom, I’m surprised by what you say about nailing directly to the masonry, but I like the idea. The block on the building is in good shape just need to close in a couple windows and doors that don’t get used any more.
With the 1” fluted masonry nails did you find it better to nail into the block or the mortar joints?
When you say “accessories” I’m assuming J-channel, corners and such?
Scott R.
Youl have to trust me on this one. I've put up quite a bit of siding this way.
As far as nailing into the morter, depends on the quality of the joint, and its age. If the joints are heavily tooled, may need a slightly longer nail. Either/or, use your best judgment.
Yep, thats what accesories means.Tom