Replies

1. 
   dirkgently | Jun 24, 2011 06:48am | #1

   I would put drip cap over top of window.

   I would think that new trim should be wider than integrated J-channel so it could be caulked to vinyl.

   drip cap again on top of wood trim

1. 
   snowycitygirl | Jun 25, 2011 01:36pm | #3

   vinyl window

   We plan to put a drip cap over the wood trim. Should we contour the wood trim to fit inside the J channel? Also we are going to side the thouse with hardi board and we want to butt the hardi board up aginst the wood trim. I dont want the vinyl of the window to be proud of the wood trim and that is the main problem I am facing! I attache another picture so that you can see the door and the trim right next to it.

   
1. 
   Davo304 | Jul 01, 2011 01:43am | #8

   The "j" channel depth

   The "j" channel depth  is probably  5/8, 3/4 or 7/8 depending on the window manufacturer. You could install a filler strip having the same thickness as the "j" and the same width as your intended trim width. Nail your trim on top of the filler.

   Or, you could cut a rabbet on the inside edge of your window trim so that the trim will overlap the vinyl and give you something solid to caulk against. The lip need only be a 1/4 inch. If your trim is not thick enough to sit proud of the window, then pad out the back side of the trim before installing.

2. 
   DanH | Jun 24, 2011 06:58am | #2

   Do you aim to overlap the J channel, or just butt up to it?

1. 
   snowycitygirl | Jun 25, 2011 01:38pm | #4

   Overlap

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 25, 2011 02:54pm | #5

   When you say

   "integral J channel" does that mean top only, top and sides, or all the way around? 

   It sounds like it might be intended for installation with vinyl siding. If so, I would look into trimming off the J channel entirely. I have not trimmed many vinyl windows at all, but when I have, the outside edge of the vinyl all the way around has been square, so that you can lay wood trim right against it without a problem, and without notching or grooving it. 

   You need to figure out the total thickness of your siding at its thickest point (where it overlaps), and make the wood trim thicker. That will help bury the vinyl also. Trim might need to be 1" to 1-1/2" thick.

1. 
   snowycitygirl | Jun 25, 2011 03:47pm | #6

   its all the way around. Triming vinyl sound impossible to do a good job!

3. 
   Blk02 | Jun 28, 2011 03:06am | #7

   Personally I would just butt the trim up against the window and let the trim sit proud of the windows surface by 1/8" or 1/4" and then caulk the joint.  The size trim you need depends on what nail flange backset you ordered the window configured with (1-3/8" or 1" are typical for vinyl windows).  If I am doing a Hardie Siding exterior I order vinyl windows with a 1" nail flange backset so I can use Hardie 5/4 trim which is 1" thick around the window (much less expensive than Artisan).  Then I just caulk around the sides of the window before setting the trim in place because the trim in this instance is not sitting proud of the window surface but flush with the surface (cant do this with a channel around the whole window though).  I think this leaves a better finished look because your painters are going to try and paint the caulk between the window and trim which never turns out right.  You can use 1-3/8" LP Smart Trim, 1-1/2" Hardie Artisan Trim, or 5/4 Hardie Trim around your windows depending on the nail flange backset you ordered.  I would recommend Versatex trim if you can get it in your area because they make window trim that is rabbeted in the back to accept the nail flange on a window.  This will allow your window trim to sit flush all the way around the window without being kicked out by the nail flange.  Also, dont forget to place your Z-Flash on top of the 1x4 header trim not directly on top of the window frame.  Most building supply places only carry 3/4", 1-1/2", and 2-1/2" window Z-Flash.  You can typically order custom sized Z-Flash for 1" or 1-3/8" trim boards at no extra cost, which is what I do so the Z-Flash is flush with your window header trim. 

   Honestly, I have never run into a vinyl window with a channel in it like that.  I know all my aluminum windows are made with a channel like that and I just butt trim up to the sides of the window and caulk the joint where the trim sits proud of the window surface.  If you have a choice I would stay away from wood trim for the windows because it will expand and contract differently than the Hardie Siding, which might lead to premature failure of the caulk joint around the window trim.  Also, use gal or stainless 2" 16 gauge finish nails every 16" around the window trim.  It looks much better because the nail heads are invisible and it is the recommended install method for Hardie Trim.  Also, use something like Tamlyn Xtreme Plank Flash behind every field butt joint in the siding instead of caulking the joints.  Every caulk joint I have seen at field butt joints has failed within 1 or 2 years.  I have done alot of research on these topics as the owner of my own home building company.

   I would also try and lookup the window company online and see if they have any examples of how to trim that particular window with siding.