I am installing 41″ long 3/4″ pine wainscot in my bathroom. I have already installed 3/8″ plywood on the wall for attaching the wainscot and will be priming all sides and ends of the wainscot before installing it. What is the best way to attach – at each groove side w/6 or 8 finish nail? Do I leave some space for expansion and if so how much. Do I use glue or just dry install. Do I paint the plywood before installing the wainscot. Just want to to do it the right way.
Thanks
Frank
Replies
Hey Frank,
If I was going to use pine for wainscoating I'd use a good stainkilling primer first, underneath a quality acrylic latex paint. I'd prime and paint the panels on the horses, then install and shoot them on with no glue. I have noticed that some people on the board here use glue for this but I've never done it where it wasn't necessary, and you can just fill in the nail holes easily with paint-grade.
If you have good coverage with one coat of paint (not real likely with pine) then just fill in your nail holes and touch up over that. Otherwise do a finish coat after it's installed but before you add whatever trim you use.
If it's t&g, nail through the tongues on an angle to hide the nails. Then slip the next panel over the tongue, do the same thing. How wide are they? sounds like you're not talking about sheets but pieces like 6-12" wide by the 41" height?
A good idea to keep it all level is to use a laser or a water level around the room. Don't rely on a bubble level to keep it right.
Saude',
Hello Mad Dog,
Yes, I am putting 4lB cut shellac over the knot holes and then will coat entire piece with Bin primer before installing. The panels are 5.25" wide. Probably leave some space in each panel? I was thinking about 1/16" to allow for expansion.
Thanks
Frank
Just slip the together and tap into place....don't set them against one another as tight as can be...that way the expansion/contraction will take care of it's self.
I almost always run 3 beads of liquid nails horizontally. Not that ya need to....just the way I was taught. Habit now. Top, midlevel, and bottom. We used to put this datail into older row houses with real old and think plaster. The glue was a backup.
If the base and rail cap are gonna cover where I can nail......I'd just face nail at the top and bottom.......then the occasional tongue nail to correct a bow. With a proper nailing surface the whole way...it'd be a toss up.
Plumb the first one in a run perfectly. Then ....if a large area is to be covered......slip in a few sticks......plumb the end piece......tongue the last piece....and face nail thse locked in. A quick check with a torpedo level , a tap with the hammer or prybar...and nail away.
Don't sweat it too much.......most anyway it stays on the wall is the right way...just remember to perfectly plumb some along the way...and check the other quick before you nail off.
Usually keeping the top level is almost as important as staying plumb. Don't worry about the bottom........run your level line....measure the shortest part of the wall...and use that measurement.....as long as the base....and more important the shoe...if that's all you are using...will cover any gap.
That's what the final trim is for.......hide the gaps ya left when making quick work of it. Jeff * Jeff J. Buck/ Buck Construction/ Pittsburgh, PA *
2nd Generation Buck Const, 3rd generation Craftsman