I’m installing the wainscot application that Gary Streigler has written about in several articles (pocket screwed frames with applied moldings). The door casings are 4.5 inches wide. Should the rails/stiles of the wainscot be 4.5 inches as well to keep in proportion to the casing? Also, the casing and base are all poplar, but is there any problem making the rail/stile from MDF? To get 4.5 inch wide poplar, I’m ripping an inch off of 1x6s. Considering the wainscot is running through the common areas of much of the house, we’re looking at hundreds of feet of 1×6. That is relatively expensive and wastes a lot of wood.
Thanks in advance for your input.
Frank R.
Replies
Without all the details regarding the proportions of the wainscoting to the casing I doubt that you would need to go with stiles and rails that match your casing.
I dont think I have ever made wainscoting stile and rails anywhere near 4 1/2". Seams like 3" would be about the wides. Again, this is all without the benifit of the measurements to check proportion.
And yes, you can use MDF. There isnt going to be any problem with the two types of wood choice.
Doug
Hi Frank,
You could probably get away with MDF - but for some reason, the thought of MDF rails/stiles gives me the willies...I'd stick with poplar.
To solve your waste problem: Rather than getting 1x6's, buy 1x10's (which are actually 9 1/4" wide) and rip them down the middle - subtract an 1/8" for the saw kerf, and you're only physically throwing out the remaining 1/8" of stock after all is said and done.
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
For a young guy, you are sounding an awful lot like an old dog.Seems to me that would be an excellant use of mdf - no edges to deal with or seal and a flat perfect surface for painting.Dust collection on the circ saw with an ezsmart and you'd be good to go.JT
I agree with you on the nice flat surface for paint, but mdf isn't anywhere near as stiff as poplar, and doesn't hold pocket screws as well as poplar - two hindrances if you are trying to assemble the framework then lift it in place on the wall.
You would need to be screwing around to fix sags, etc. -
Of course, just like with anything, the cost savings could outweigh the annoyances. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
It's be a helluva cost savings...JT
Everyone,
My casing is thick enough that the wainscot, rail cap and base can die into the casing without projecting beyond it. I do not recall seeing 4.5 inch rails/stiles, but I thought I read they should correspond to the casing. I'll listen to Justin and use the 3 or 3.5 rails/stiles that I've used on past projects. Finally, I'm going to eat the cost and use the poplar. I keep wanting to try out MDF on these projects, but the time commitment is such that I keep going back to what I'm comfortable with. (i.e. poplar). By the way, Jim Chestnut's clamps are excellent. I tried them out on my bedroom remodel and will be using them with biscuits for all casing on this project (11 doors).
Thanks again for all of the input.
Frank R.
What is the going price of Jim's miter clamps these days? I think I saw them for like $60 or so? Pretty steep...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Justin,
Agreed. The clamps are not cheap and I'm certain some guys can just assemble the casing on the wall and get a great miter. But the miters on my last project were perfect, so for me the clamps were well worth the money. Also, they are really solid, heavy clamps and the cam works smoothly. While some of the guys may not feel they would get sufficient use out of them to justify their cost, I don't think anyone would say they were overpriced in terms of quality or construction.
FR
I'll second that Frank.
They may seam high until you use them.
Doug
<< some of the guys may not feel they would get sufficient use out of them to justify their cost, I don't think anyone would say they were overpriced in terms of quality or construction. >>
Very well put.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
I was using a set of Jims clamp this last weekend. That is the best way I've found to make a nice perfectly tight 45.
I love em.
Tipi fest 06. The island is gonna bounce, Ese.
By the way, have you doublechecked that the chair rail/top cap on the wainscot won't end up being thicker than the door casing? This is a very common problem with adding wainscot/chair rail after the fact.
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Justin,
Sorry for the delayed response but I miscalculated. My base extends beyond my casing by just under 1/4 inch. I have four options. The first is to use a 1/4 inch plywood backer instead of a 1/2 inch. Because I'm going right onto the studs, I'm not sure the 1/4 inch is sturdy enough for the field. Second, I could add a 1/4 inch piece of poplar around the back perimeter of the casing which would be invisible after painting. (The casing is 4.5 inches wide so a 1/4 inch piece across the entire back of the casing would be more difficult.) Third, I could trim each base piece back at a 45 degree angle where it meets the casing. (This seems like the most popular). Fourth, I could eat the cost of 5/4 poplar, but that would be really expensive. I have a lot of doors to case. After months of looking, my wife has settled on this exact casing configuration so I'm really trying to avoid a backband or other change to the look of the casing. Making it a bit deeper is not a big deal. I' previously dismissed using 1 inch MDF. Maybe I should put that back on the table.
Thanks Justin.
Frank Racaniello
I have built this type of wainscot with ripping styles and rails out of furniture grade plywood-with great results- all edges were covered by pm6- picture frame type moulding -- obviously you have to deal or plan around the 8' length