I am planning to wainscot a wall with a 13 foot L by 60 inch H frame and panel. I prebuilt the wainscot and it ready to lift and attach. While I knew the wall was uneven I underestimated the severity of the bumps and valleys. I was thinking that the wainscot would conform and span them with the panel trim top cap tidying everything up. Not going to happen, I need to flatten out this wall. A horizontal string stretched across the wall and touching the high spots reveals valleys ranging from 1/4 to 5/8 inch. A couple of out of place studs are causing most of the issue. What is the best way to proceed?
Shim out the low spots with filler strips? Put up 1/2inch plywood across the wall shimmed flat and install the wainscot to that? A pro contractor suggested taking out the drywall and working from the studs out. I am a DYI guy but have done a lot of interior remodeling at my house and family homes. But drywall teardown is not an option. This is a real rookie mistake on my part, so I am going to have to flatten that wall without cutting out the drywall. Any suggestions would be really appreciated (and might restore my confidence level).
Thanks,
Ted
FYI the wainscot stiles and rails are 3/4 inch. The panel is 1/4 MDF inset in a dado from the back. The trim cap (WindsorOne WOWC006) has a 3/4 dado to fit over the top rail so the intent was to have that meet the wall flat.
Replies
There are multiple ways to shim for the install. Here is an idea that might work, but it would be an experiment...
Locate the studs that are really out of plane. Use a 4" hole saw to cut holes where the studs meet the top and bottom plates. The bottom will be covered, but the top one will need to be patched (not terrible). Use a sawzall to cut the nails and free the stud. Pull / push / tap it into the right location and use screws to reattach it to the plates. You might get a few nail pops in the drywall, but those aren't too hard to address if they show.
You could try this idea at the bottom with no real risk or much extra work. Getting the stud into plane might be a bit of a science project, but I don't assume it's impossible.
Best of luck to you.
Troy
Thanks for your reply Troy. Interesting idea on straightening the wall and I think achievable in many circumstances, but not this one. There is a baseboard radiator along this wall preventing access to the bottom plate. Also, forgot to mention this is an interior wall so the other side would be impacted by any stud movement. ( of course it has its own problems)
Thanks Again!
You didn’t mention what’s on the other side of the wall.
With what you describe as a few drastic low spots and some 1/4” I would screed flat the big dips with timed bag compound and caulk those slight imperfect spots. Easiest is to locate the bad ones and take care of that before install. Added plus, you get to hone your drywall skills. Run you build ups all the way to the ceiling if you can. If not, feather it out as you go up.
I appreciate your response calvin. This wall divides two rooms so the other side is a finished wall (also out of plane of course). Your approach has a big benefit in taking out the dips above the level of the wainscot even if I don't go all the way to the ceiling. Whatever other method used to shim the wall up to the top height of the wainscot would still leave the dips just above the top rail, at the level of the top trim cap to deal with.
Thanks!
P.S. I have put up just enough drywall to know that building drywall skills is not on my bucket list. But I can do this task. Nothing but respect for drywall and plaster pro's. Doing that work correctly with fine finish outcome takes real skill.
Remember the other side if you opt for cutting studs. The method works prior to sheeting the walls, finished both sides …. nail/screw pops for sure.
The. screed need not be perfect, you are looking for a flat bedding on the first pass. Couple more coats would be like finishing a wide taped joint. I use timed bag compound so I can easily and quickly pad out and finish. I’d start even a ways down from the top of the cap, not paying attention to beauty, just try to backfill the hollow in case somebody big backs into the panel.
Cut through the drywall + into the stud about 1/2 way on an angle. Then screw through drywall+ into the 2” x 4”. It will straighten the studs
Thanks for that technique to straighten studs. I ave seen that being done but forgot all about it as an option for this problem.
A few choices if you don’t want to tear into the drywall/studs.
1. Use your string line and add pieces of wood/shims at studs to make into a single plane. After installation, then deal with the open joint at top cap by either caulking, scribing cap (if enough material), or use an additional thin/flexible molding on top of cap.
2. Using string line, float new coat(s) of drywall mud to make a single plane and go beyond where top cap ends. Sand and paint new mud above cap.
Either works and not difficult.
Thanks FixEm (and all). I believe the best option is floating drywall mud to get the wall in plane. Especially since I was just informed that I won't have to paint the wall above the wainscot! It is going to be wallpapered. So I will get the drywall mud smooth but won't fret about perfection.
Thanks Again