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Wainscot panel repair questions

jcooley | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 31, 2006 05:04am

Hello all, I’m new to the forum as a poster. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
The situation is this: wood wainscot panels, many original, in a building dating from about 1820. The panels are probably white pine or possibly poplar, unfinished on the back, about 18″x36″. They were installed very close to an exterior brick wall, and after a through restoration about 6 years ago they are now in a very well conditioned environment. However, that was not always the case, and they have cupped and cracked.
So I’ve got the panels out, and I’ve gotten some good advice on flattening them using first humidity and clamping, then slow drying while still in the clamps. Experiments seem to show that this will work.
The big question is, how do I keep them flat? It seems like sealing all six sides, with a good primer and then a finish coat or two, should slow any uneven moisture conditions enough to keep the panels basically flat. Any further suggestions or comments?

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Replies

  1. YesMaam27577 | Oct 31, 2006 07:23pm | #1

    If you need to eliminate moisture absorbtion (you do), you're gonna need divine intervention. Anything short will leave you disappointed.

     

     

     

     

    Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

  2. DougU | Nov 04, 2006 04:59am | #2

    If you seal the backside of the panels you will certainly get less warp.

    You could also cut some groves into the panels, not sure that I would on 200 year old panels but it couldnt hurt.

    You probably wont get rid of all warp but you should be able to control it enough to avoid any real problems.

    Use a good oil base primer to seal the wood.

    Oh, btw, welcome to BT! Pictures of the wainscotting would be welcome.

    Doug

  3. user-221666 | Nov 04, 2006 07:42am | #3

    seal with oil .kerf into the back...
    .this feels sacriligious, but in the back could you (i don't know the thickness or size of the material) drop a 1/2 by 3/4" groove or two (or three ...) and fill in with a ( more) stable material like baltic birch plywood . that would keep things in line
    good luck, and yeah:
    pictures!!!

    1. QCInspector | Nov 05, 2006 12:25am | #6

      "seal with oil .kerf into the back....this feels sacriligious, but in the back could you (i don't know the thickness or size of the material) drop a 1/2 by 3/4" groove or two (or three ...) and fill in with a ( more) stable material like baltic birch plywood . that would keep things in line"Maybe it's just me and the things that I'm amused by, but if you think it is sacrilegious to paint or kerf, then wouldn't your solution amount to another form of the same evil? ;-)

      1. user-221666 | Nov 05, 2006 01:07am | #7

        silly goose! the sacreligous was not the oil paint, or the kerfing but recessing a different material into old panelling,,,, ; ()
        bring on them faux toes !

        1. QCInspector | Nov 05, 2006 01:32am | #8

          Oh!!! That would be Silly Canada Goose!
          I read it all wrong. :-)
          I'm faux finished now.

          1. user-221666 | Nov 05, 2006 06:18am | #9

            that's one canada goose to another a big smoke toronto to your fraser valley, ahoy thar! :0

  4. Shep | Nov 04, 2006 04:28pm | #4

    Do you have to re-use the old panels?

    If not, you may want to consider making new panels out of MDF. It won't warp, it paints great, and it's fairly inexpensive.

    If your doing a restoration job, this obviously won't fly. But it might be worth considering.

  5. kate | Nov 04, 2006 05:37pm | #5

    6-side seal is good - you must respect the cupping & cracking as the priceless patina of time, & let it be.

    Seriously, don't over-restore these- certainly, paint the backs, since you have them out, but don't get into kerfing, etc.  This is the way they are supposed to be, st this age.

    (My house was built in 1690, so I have some experience...)

    & congratulations on your wonderful old house, & for coming to BT - you will find endless amounts of great information!

     

  6. andybuildz | Nov 05, 2006 06:30am | #10

    you need to post pictures of the panels and it'd be helpful to see pictures of where you'll be reinstalling them.
    Will it be in a damp location like a bathroom? If not and the panels are flat there's no reason they wont stay that way sealed or not.
    If they are going into a wet location then by all means seal it on all six sides and let nature take its course.
    I installed some knotty 3/4" wainscott in a real damp area. A small bathroom with little venting...sealed all sides with oil and its been fine. Its been down four years....actually the front face isn't even totally sealed. It was the first room i started and probably will be the last to be finished in this circa 1680 house.
    You can't worry about little things. Do the best you can and enjoy what it does...I love creaky floors....as long as I know theyre sound (so to speak..lol). Check out some pic in my site below.

     

    Looking outward to the blackness of space, sprinkled with the glory of a universe of lights, I saw majesty -
    but no welcome. Below was a welcoming planet.

    There, contained in the thin, moving, incredibly fragile shell of the biosphere is everything that is dear to you,
    all the human drama and comedy. That's where life is; that's were all the good stuff is.
    Loren Acton - Astronaut

    http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

     
    1. jcooley | Nov 07, 2006 02:48am | #11

      Thanks andy, and everyone else, for your advice. I've chosen to take a least-intrusive approach: flattening with clamps, humidity and gentle heat, slow drying, sealing all six sides (with oil primer) etc. In this case, ultimate flatness is not as important as not messing with the original materials in an irreversible way.
      Sorry for not posting photos, but they wouldn't be particularly illuminating in this case.

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