Here’s some pics of a raised panel wainscote I did last year. The room is the 2-story foyer of a very large house. The foyer is about 16′ by 30′.
Sorry about the size. I thought I had them reduced. I guess not.
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Hey, Steve-
here's a few pics. I hope you're not on dial-up.
Computer Q- I have Adobe Photoshop Starter Addition 3.2, that came with the computer. Do you know if there's any easy way to resize pics with that, or should I just get Photoshop Elements? Or something else?
I don't mind spending a few bucks for a decent photo program.
Hey Shep,No pics attached.I've got a fat pipe coming in for my servers, so any file size is fine for me.You should be able to resize easily with your Photoshop version. But, I've found that Irfanview makes it a snap with their batch conversion if you have a whole bunch to do at once. http://www.irfanview.com/Unless you are pushing pixels for a living, you don't need a big photo editing suite. The Elements one should be fine. Irfanview is free. So is Gimp. http://www.gimp.org/windows/Any of those should do what you need. If you've got questions, let me know.Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Huh. When I click on the files, I get pics. Granted, they're almost life-size, but they're there for me.
I've tried resizing with the Photoshop I have, with very little luck. Its really a very, very basic photo program.
Part of my problem is that I have that Photoshop, the PictureProject I got with my Nikon, and the My Pictures that's part of windows.
I really need to spend some time and organize my pic files. I should save a lot of them to disc.
Never mind. I was looking at Post#2 and not #1Here they are resized.Nice stuff indeed. Did you do the stairs, too?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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I trimmed the house when it was originally built 9 years ago, but someone else did the stairs. They're pretty nice.
I've got some pics of ceiling treatments in the master bedroom and bath that I'll have to resize and post one day. And I did the tile backsplash in the kitchen, which, if I say so myself, turned out pretty nicely.
Thanks for the 'puter tips. Looks like I'll be getting Elements soon.
Just reread your earlier message. I thought you had Elements already.Before you rush out to buy that, try the Gimp for Windows. It's free and should do a nice job of photo editing for you. I'm pretty sure CU is using it now. And I just learned about Image Pipes.http://www.gimp.org/windows/Look forward to the ceiling and tile photos!'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Really nice stuff there Shep.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks. I don't get too many jobs like that, where I can stretch my skills.
And where the HO is willing to pay for that. LOL
really nice, eye catching work.
Photoshop's probably the best choice of those three to resize with.Here's a step by step on resizing a folder full of photos on Photoshop Elements. http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/pselements/ss/processmultiple.htm'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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HHmmmm.
I just noticed that I posted 2 very similar pics. I have to put some up of the other walls.
Nice work.
Ties in very well with the columns, good balance.
That was my thought as well (tie to columns).Nice work, thanks for posting the pics.
Very nice work!
"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I can look at whatever sized pics you post... Show me the ceilings, etc... :-) I'm always looking for cool ideas.
Wanna talk a little about how the waynscoting was constructed? Are those panels routed MDF or what?
Matt-
The frames of the wainscot is Windsor One pine. I ripped a lot of it out of 1x6. My goal was to keep all the spacing between panel moulding, cap, and baseboards the same- 4". I came very close.
The frames are biscuited at the joints. I ended up shimming some of the runs to minimize the dips in the walls. I then had to shim some of the panels when I set them to keep the face of the panels flush with the frames.
The panels are routed MDF. I used a large horizontal raised panel bit in my router table. I ended up removing the bearing, to get a little more width on the cut. I also primed the panels with an oil-base primer while I had them in my shop so there wouldn't be that smell in the customers home.
I cut, then assembled the bolection moulding frames on a bench before I installed them. I like doing that because I think I can keep the miters much tighter that way. Plus when you come in the house, and start popping the finished frames in place, the HO thinks you're a genius <G>
I'll post more pics of the wainscote, and pics of the ceilings soon.
Shep,That is some very nice work. Thanx for sharing.After you route the mdf, how much sanding do you have to do. My supplier has a "door and moulding" grade of mdf that requires less sanding. I can start with 150 rather than 100.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I wonder what the history of wainscoting is.... Was it originally just decorative, or was it to give a more durable wall treatment - I guess usually it is from chair-rail height down. I might almost call your job "double wainscoting" - if that makes any sense...
It is one of the original carpenters words. It comes from a german word, I think, that meant wagon referring the body of the wagon, which was sometimes partitions or panels like this wall for the sides of it.now picture in your mind, the Conestoga wagons rolling west with there upper flanks all white canvas, and the lower body solid wood panels - not far different in look from the walls that are waiscotted today.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Well even if you made it up, that sounds pretty good!
Now you set me to do so researching. No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.
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This article does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unverifiable material may be challenged and removed. (January 2008)
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View Image39-inch (1 m) wainscoting using 3-inch (76 mm) tongue and groove pine boards.
Panelling is a wall covering constructed from rigid or semi-rigid components. These are traditionally interlocking wood, but could be plastic or other materials.
Panelling was developed in antiquity to make rooms in stone buildings more comfortable. The panels served to insulate the room from the cold stone. In more modern buildings, such panelling is often installed for decorative purposes. Panelling, such as wainscoting and boiserie in particular, may be extremely ornate and is particularly associated with seventeenth and eighteenth century interior design, Victorian architecture in Britain, and its international contemporaries.
[edit] Wainscoting
Wainscot or wainscoting (pronounced /ˈweɪnskɔti©¯/ in American English, /ˈweɪnskɒtɪ©¯/ in British English) is a panelling style applied to the lower 3' (900mm) to 5' (1500mm) of an interior wall, below the dado rail or chair rail and above the baseboard or skirting board. It is traditionally constructed from tongue-and-groove boards, though beadboard or decorative panels (such as a wooden door might have) are also common. Wainscoting may also refer to other materials used in a similar fashion.
Wainscoting was once used to cover the lower part of walls which, in houses constructed with poor or nonexistent damp-proof courses, are often affected by rising dampness; it now mainly serves a decorative purpose, however. Its most notable cultural appearance is perhaps as part of a sketch in episode 20 of the comedy program Monty Python's Flying Circus, in which a sheep with a gun is discovered in a home's wainscoting.
[edit] Boiserie
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View ImageElaborate boiseries in the guild hall of the Zunfthaus zu Kaufleuten, Kramgasse 29, Berne.
Boiserie (often used in the plural boiseries) is the term used to define ornate and intricately carved wood panelling. Early examples of boiseries were unpainted, but later the raised mouldings were often painted or gilded. Boiseries were popular in seventeenth and eighteenth century French interior design and the Palace of Versailles has many fine examples. The panels were not confined just to the walls of a room but were also used to decorate doors, frames, cupboards and shelves. Often pictures would be set into the boiseries, the carving framing the picture rather like a conventional frame
Hope this helps No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.
Sounds like what shep did could almost be considered "boiseries". BTW - how do you pronounce that word?
I'm not sure, I just say "boiseries" LOL
Thats a new word for me. No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.
Shep,
Where the basebd/skirt connect at the top and bottom of the stairs: Did you give any thought to framing the panel frame to mimmic that transition's shape?
If you did and discarded that idea or if not-think it would be a #### ty look?
thanks.
Nice, fun work I bet.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
You're talking about where the baseboards make that jog into the frames?
Yeah, I wasn't real crazy about how those 2 areas turned out. I thought about making the panels jog to match, but realized that routing the inside corners would require a fair amount of hand work to finish. And I'm not sure if having those jogs in the panels would look good.
I did talk to the HO about both choices, and did some mock-ups for them. We all decided this was the best compromise.
But I still wish I could have come up with something different.
How are you feeling these days? Are you fully recovered from your surgery?
Yes, where the basebd transitions at the stair. I had a stair job where the customer wanted just applied mouldings-no rail/stile that started in the foyer and made it's way up the stairs to resemble panel trim around flat panels. The pleasing layout included a panel that encroached on that transition. I placed the moulding to parallel the transition. They like it.
I wasn't sure how it would have looked with rails/stiles and raised panels, not sure I would have liked it because of the raised panel. I dunno, beats me-just thought I'd ask your opinion. I really would like to see the finish shots also-that makes half the difference.
Currently feel two weeks later like a million bucks-with 25% mortgaged. Going to start back at it Monday. The excitement mounts. Really want to go whack 'em. Might have to suffice my desire at the dome. Doesn't look like a warm up through the next week. You tend to get good roll in weather like this. Decent roll on the ponds too.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Seeing as how you are a professional, give me an idea of how much materials cost. Without including labor, what did they pay a square foot? I know you have all of that information memorized, so come off with it...........looks really good, by the way.Also, as far as installation, did you hit studs, or just use plenty of glue and tack it to the sheetrock?
Edited 1/3/2009 1:59 pm ET by arcflash
I do remember it took me about 160 hours to complete everything. I'll have to look up the materials costs.
OK, I looked up the materials. For everything, it ran about $2,500. But there's really not a whole lot of material there. I think it was 8 or 9 sheets of MDF, and something like 20 pieces of 1x 12 WindsorOne pine.
As far as a sq. ft. price? I'm not sure how much sq. ft. are there.
IIRC, there are 51 panels in the foyer.
The pine frames are nailed into the studs, thru the sheetrock. The MDF panels are glued with construction adhesive, and nailed into studs where possible.
I hope that $2500 figure was just for the materials. I don't see you doing that kinda work for fifteen bucks an hour, LOL....
Did you find it faster to biscuit the frame joints than to cope-and-stick them on the router table? For that many frames, I would think the extra set-up time cope-and-stick takes would kinda disappear into the gross.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Yeah, the $2500 is just materials. I'm crazy, not stupid. LOL
The pine frames on the walls are all square edged. I calculated how much the bolection moulding would cover inside the frames, and made the panels about a 1/4" larger all around than that measurement.
The moulding bridges the gap between the panels, and the wall frames.
I did think about running a groove on the edges and ends of every piece of the frames, and then splining things together, but that just seemed like overkill. Even to me.
Somewhere I've got pics of the frames before I put the panels in. I'm not allowed to use the computer for very long on Saturdays, because Sandi has to write her sermon for tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll post more pics over the next couple of days.
Nice work brotha.
If you ever get the chance to photo the painted completion, I'd love to see the shadowlines created.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I haven't been back to the house since its all been painted. My wife has (she's his accountant) and says it looks great.
She also asks why we don't have anything like that in our house. LOL
BTW - you said the panels are routed MDF. I know the stuff routs well (if you can stand the dust) but I've noticed that sometimes the finished product is a little rough - almost like endgrain.... What's the secret to making it come out nice and smooth? I'm guessing you are going to say it's the oil primer you referred to above - or, what else? Maybe it's dull router bits that is making it rough?
A dull router bit will make a lot more work for you. I didn't have the profile of raised panel bit they wanted to use, so I bought a new one, charged it off to the job, and have it for the next time I need it.
I used the Zinnser oil base primer, then sanded the routed edges with 150 grit. It came out quite well. And a latex-base primer will raise the grain. It can be sanded smooth once dry, but its a lot more work.
Were you able to leave the existing baseboard in place or did you have to remove and reinstall after the frames were installed?
Also, how did you deal with the intersections at the casing, stool, up-easing, etc.?
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I removed the existing base, and reinstalled it over the new panel frames. I was able to reuse most of it, but did have to use some new. Fortunately, he doesn't throw anything out, and there was some left over from when I originally trimmed the house.
Its not solid behind the base. I ran the lower rail for the frames, and then just nailed scrap 1x along the floor.
I've got some pics on how I did along the casings, etc. I'll post them soon. I did build the frames and panels out 3/4" under the window at the stair landing. I thought that would look better at the window, rather than having that whole wall on one plane.
The top cap on the waincote is 5/4 OG window stool, ripped to width. It creates a very nice profile for that application.
Very well done! I hope you charged as well as your excellent skills are worth.
i guess not ......
Fatroman resized the ones I've posted. I really gotta learn how to do this again. I used to know.