Replies

1. 
   torn | Jul 31, 2006 06:19am | #1

   can you? yes, assuming you have successfully mastered walking on solid ground...

   should you? I would only when necessary, wearing soft-soled shoes and only putting my weight on the metal where it is supported underneath (i.e. purlins)

   what are you going up there for? repair? inspection? cleaning/painting?

2. 
   piko | Jul 31, 2006 11:01am | #2

   I'm guessing that there's strapping under the metal...walk where that is. And use the screws both as a guide and as something to stop you slipping.

   All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

3. 
   junkhound | Jul 31, 2006 03:55pm | #3

   Have a couple of 2 ft by 6 ft sheets of rigid Aluminum faced honeycomb with handles.  I use those as large snowshoes to walk on corrogated fiberglass and thin sheet metal roofing.

4. 
   DaveMason2 | Jul 31, 2006 06:38pm | #4

    Do it all the time. Watch for dust and water. Also don't worry about slipping because when you do slip you usually stop yourself right at the edge of the roof. Must be a survival instinct thing.

     Dave

1. 
   woodway | Jul 31, 2006 07:11pm | #5

   What if you don't stop at the edge?

1. 
   zak | Jul 31, 2006 07:53pm | #6

   Then you stop just a second or two later, don't worry about it.zak

   "so it goes"

1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 31, 2006 08:31pm | #7

   get you some tennis shoes and chaulk line, great for metal roofs, especially 5 /12 slopes

1. 
   RichBeckman | Aug 01, 2006 01:03am | #11

   "get you some tennis shoes and chaulk line, great for metal roofs, especially 5 /12 slopes"What's the chalk line for??And why 5/12 slopes in particular?Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

2. 
   brownbagg | Aug 01, 2006 01:39am | #12

   What's the chalk line for?traction

3. 
   IMERC | Aug 01, 2006 01:46am | #13

   safety lanyard....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

4. 
   bhackford | Aug 01, 2006 06:14am | #14

   I only need to walk on it to install the ridge cap. The rest of the time I will be on the purlins.

5. 
   DaveMason2 | Aug 01, 2006 07:25am | #15

   LOL to that, IMERC.

    Seriously, When you first put it down you'll have pretty good traction. Just be carefull the next day especially if it's dusty. It can be very deceiving if it's not wet and you think that you can walk around like you did the day before.

   4/12 isn't bad until your down by the overhang putting in that last screw on the Gable End trim and the screw slips out of the bit. That'll get the ticker racing.

    Not sure if your predrilling or not but if you can figure out where your ridgecap hits the ribs on the metal then it will go alot faster once you get up there.

    Just a thought, Dave

6. 
   DaveRicheson | Aug 01, 2006 01:19pm | #16

   Seriously, When you first put it down you'll have pretty good traction. Just be carefull the next day especially if it's dusty. It can be very deceiving if it's not wet and you think that you can walk around like you did the day before

   The stuff I get here has an oily film on it right off the truck.

   Like others have said; tennis shoes, stay on the screw head, and consider using fall arrest  gear. If your just putting on the ridge cap, you might want to use some soft type knee pads. Something that will get a little grip. If you straddle the ridge, the knee pads help keep you from doing the splits. If you stand and put your feet on a row of screws on each side, the purlins are normaly 2' oc and your spanning alittle less tha 4' with your legs. You'll be sore as heck at the end of the day from that position.

   In this heat, light weith cotton gloves are a must when working on steel. That stuff can reach 140+ degrees in direct sun light.

    

   Dave

7. 
   Sailfish | Aug 01, 2006 08:07pm | #17

   I've heard the Chuck Taylors are the cats meow for traction on a metal roof. I've never used them.

   I prefer Merrell hiking boots. They have a soft, sticky compound, in addition to the nubs if you need something to bite your screws (strange, I laugh every time I read that sentence).

   I've stood side by side (well, for a moment) with the Chucky fellas while they slid.

   Downside is cost and the chance of becoming to confident with them.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    

   WWPD

8. 
   DaveRicheson | Aug 02, 2006 01:22pm | #18

   Downside is cost and the chance of becoming to confident with them.

   I am on the downhill slope to 60 now. No physical problem as yet, but every time I go up on a tall wall or roof now I am reminded that my balance and cat like quickness aren't what they use to be  <G>

   Old and slow works for me now!

   Be safe.

    

   Dave

    

5. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 31, 2006 08:37pm | #8

   Metal is an extremely smooth surface for a roof.  So, as Dave mentioned, anything that gets on it, dust, water, whatever, acts just like ball bearings under your feet.  Consider using a rope grab and harness for this one. 

    

    

   -- J.S.

    

6. 
   netanyahu | Jul 31, 2006 11:28pm | #9

   wrap some of that rubber mat that goes under rugs to keep them from sliding around on the floor around your shoes to keep from slipping

1. 
   brownbagg | Aug 01, 2006 12:07am | #10

   what they call them thing, chicken ladders. yea that what I would use, chicken ladders.