Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 14, 2005 08:22pm | #1

   I've never seen it, but that doesn't prove anything. How much do you save with a framed wall, after sheetrock, sheathing, insulation, and siding? (Of course you're probably going to want to insulate the concrete walls, too, so I guess the insulation is a wash.) If the difference is small, just the simplicity of keeping all the basement walls the same might argue against the one frame wall.

   Strength is not a problem. People have been building two story houses with 2x4 framing on the lower floor for well over 100 years now.

2. 
   djj | Jan 14, 2005 08:39pm | #2

   I can't remember the last time I saw a new construction of a full walk-out where the back wall was was poured. They are all framed.  

   Regards,

   Dennis

3. 
   Piffin | Jan 14, 2005 08:56pm | #3

   RE: strength, when you backfill against the two side walls, they do not have as much strength to resist lateral forces of the soil and frost exerted on them unless you turn the corner to make a butress flank as prt of the fourth wall. IMO, you are less likely to have leaks that way too.

   RE: cost, i tend to doubt there will be much difference, all depending on the level of finish reqd for either.

   RE: plans guy - how far you go in taking his advice should depend a LOT on what his background and experience is. If just a draftsman, forget anythig he says on cost and possibly on strnegth.

    

    

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4. 
   BossHog | Jan 14, 2005 09:00pm | #4

   Like DJJ, I've never seen a walkout with a poured wall in the walkout area. Seems to me that having framed walls is much more desirable.

   Here at First National, you're not just a number - you're two numbers, a dash, three more numbers, another dash, and another number.
1. 
   Piffin | Jan 14, 2005 09:15pm | #5

   I se it probably 50/50% 

    

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1. 
   dieselpig | Jan 14, 2005 09:21pm | #6

   I don't think I've come across a walk-out that wasn't framed for 5 or 6 years..... in Massachusetts anyway.

   I'd say that as long as it's built properly, he's fine with either.  Personally, I prefer a framed walkout as I like siding better than concrete.

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 14, 2005 09:31pm | #8

   I'm not arguing in favour or against, just reporting that in my experience, I do see both. Personally, I would prefer the framed, but it all depends on the terrain slopes and planned landscaping. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   dieselpig | Jan 14, 2005 09:57pm | #9

   Me too.  I was just sharing my experience and preference.  :)

2. 
   FramerT | Jan 14, 2005 10:10pm | #10

   Mostly framed [2x6] walls here,too. Seems they would be better suited if windows are involved.
   I didn't do it....the buck does NOT stop here.

5. 
   SamT | Jan 14, 2005 09:26pm | #7

   ANything to be concerned about here?  Depends on the soil engineer.

   SamT

6. 
   Sasquatch | Jan 15, 2005 12:05am | #11

   It's done here all the time, usually with 2X4s, although I like to frame with 2X6s.

    

7. 
   AndyEngel | Jan 15, 2005 12:09am | #12

   One possible concern is whether your walkout basement will count as living space. I don't know where you live, or what the codes are there, or if you intend to finish the basement anyway. In CT, if more than half the area of a basement's walls are above grade, it counts as a floor of the house. That can have tax ramifications. And, if you were building a two story house, such a basement would count as a third story, which would get you out of the 1 and 2 story dwelling code. The issue here becomes fire protection. In CT, you'd have to install sprinklers or a one hour ceiling between floors.

   Andy

   Andy Engel

   Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine

   Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig

8. 
   byrnesie | Jan 15, 2005 01:03am | #13

   Just because you decide on a walkout doesn't mean you don't need a foundation wall that goes below your frost line- in Mass. thats 4'-0, which would add some confusion to the excavation/ stepped concrete placement of ftg./foundation. I agree with Piffin about the backfill- corners are the strength. Our town now requires brace inspection prior to backfill because of a wall that broke during backfilling.

   I just drafted an addition to go beside a ranch that has a walkout. The back of the (existing) house sits on the footing which only goes the foot of it's thickness below grade. It has heaved over the years and the plan is to trench, small sections  at a time to 4'-0 below grade and pour concrete, reinforcing with re-bar, under the existing footing. Obviously, it's cheaper to do it right the first time.

   Also, our code requires 8" min. concrete exposure @ base of wall.