I have a wall cap with an overhang. I would like to hinge the wall cap such that I could have a storage compartment hidden in the wall. I would like the wall cap to open parallel to the wall. If you imagine a toolbox as the wall, I want the lid of the wall to open exactly like that.
The problem I am having is selecting an appropriate hinge. I have a very hard time visualizing how the hinge will work given the thickness of the material ( 1 5/8″ ) and how the overhang will interfer. I would like the hinge to not be visible when the wall cap is closed.
Any ideas?
I could put the drawing into sketchup or draw and scan if anyone has a hard time picturing what I am hoping to accomplish.
Thanks for any advice !
Replies
I think your two choices are Soss hinges and "European" cabinet hinges. Either is hidden when closed and can open 180 degrees or better.
However, the Soss is a mortised hinge, and you may not have enough thickness in your lid to mortise for a large-enough unit.
OTOH, the "European" hinge may not provide enough clearance for the overhang (though there are lots of variations on the European hinge, with different clearance capabilities).
A lot depends on the details of the geometry, and careful planning is called for.
You can, of course, use a regular leaf hinge and have it ALMOST hidden, but the knuckle will be exposed (to some one looking under the overhang).
Thank you for the reply !!.
I am currently prototyping it with a euro hinge and a scrap of the final material. The clearance - I didn't quite know what to call this before - is the limiting factor as you point out. It appears with a standard euro hinge then I am looking at needing to carve out the top of the wall for the compartment approximately the width of a standard cabinet side (1/2-3/4"). The wall is made of drywall on the outside and then dimensional lumber on the inside. With only this amount of clearance I think it makes it difficult to attach the hinge inside the wall cavity as I'd need to remove the drywall and then possibly add wood and blend the wood in with the surrounding drywall.
This wall is a 1/2 wall that separates a staircase that goes up and one that goes down with a landing at the bottom so you can see under the cap quite easily.
I've attached a few pictures to make this less a mental exercise.
Do you know if there are modifications to the euro hinge that give it more clearance?
The lid is quite thick 1-5/8" so possibly the SOSS hinge would work better?
It needs to hinge to the right as the left has a hand rail going up.
Thanks again !
wall cap?
Yes, a sketch would be good. I think I understand, but I have a simple mind.
If you are talking about a wall that tops out short of a ceiling or one that is shorter, say 3-4' tall.............then maybe here's an idea.
Provide a rabbited opening in the top, and just drop in a lid. There are push type releases that would keep it flush when closed, but a push would lift it enough to get hold and remove.
or fit the top and apron trim (if any) so stinking good that it lifts off, but just looks like a slightly "airy" joint when in place.
Introducing hardware sometimes means cobbling something together with what's "available".
I was considering a pop out type option as well I'd still want it to be hinged as the lid is heavy and I have very limited space so I'd like this to be a quite function opening.
I attached two pictures to the previous reply. Hopefully this provides a good idea of what I'd like to accomplish.
Thanks again !
blue
Go to Blum, a euro hinge manufacturer. You'll have to look at their line drawings for your application.
The thickness of the cap shouldn't be a problem, the cup part of the hinge will only go do deep. The mounting of the bracket for the cup, that will be the hard part-you might have to play with the corner bead (change it to L bead) which only covers the 1/2" drywall edge-the rest you'd have to find the proper bracket for the hinge-that you could fasten inside that drywall.
They make mounting brackets for face frames, besides frameless cabs-that's where you'll be looking.
And for a full or partial overlay door probably.
Study the drawings, apply them to what you got.
Next time do the figuring then the construction-so you don't have to reconstruct............unless you aren't finished with the area in question.
Best of luck.
Soss should work also-I think they have up and out hinges (sort of double acting) which might help in a backset problem with the overhang.
faceframe is what i need
Thanks for the reply !
I tried some euro hinges that have the mount screw holes 90 degrees rotated from typical. This allows me to screw to something that runs perpendicular to the wall instead of parallel.
Here is the result. The problems are:
1. The overlap of the cap to the wall if 1/4" on the hinge side due to the 1/2" offset from the edge for the hinge hole in the cap and 1/2" drywall being as close to the edge as I can get the hinge fastener plate. The other side it is 1/2".
2. The hole for the hinge fastener plate is too close to the drywall and I can't use a fastener in it.
After re-reading your message I agree that what I need are face frame hinges. What I have below is probably a frameless euro hinge. I had to do the cutting work anyway so not much really wasted.
So what I think I need are 3/4" overlay, 100 degree opening, 90 fastener plate, faceframe euro hinges.
The hardest part is probably going to be the fastener plate. I checked out rockler but the hinges they display all seem to require a mounting that would need to go into the drywall or have me replace the drywall.
rockler.com/c/face-frame-overlay-hinges.cfm
Possibly I am stuck with SOSS.
blue
Whenever there's a bastard situation, it takes a keen eye and a hell of alot of thought to pull it off.
My suggestion, get in touch with Blum (via email has worked for me) Include your pictures and hope for the best.
If you can draw something up, show dimensions and again-hope for the best.
Keep at it and of course, report back in case someone else has the same or similar bastardization of lid opening problem..........
thanks