What is the correct way to install angle-stops or shut-off valves for a wall-mounted faucet? I can’t put an access panel in the wall for valves in the copper, so should I go outside the wall to use angle-stops, then flex lines back to more copper inside the wall (meaning 4 wall penetrations), or is it o.k. to bury ball valves (with long handles) inside the wall and tile them in?
Thanks
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Replies
First, mount your sink to the wall following the manufacturer's directions...pretty straightforward, really.
Second, the water supply lines should be stubbed out through the wall directly underneath the sink. Attach your shut-off valves at this location, and then run supply lnes up to the faucet; underneath the sink.
For a neat look, you can use chrome shut-offs, and then attach ridgid, chrome supply lines from the stops to the faucet....... Or, you can instead run stainless flex lines from the shut-offs if this is easier for you to do.
If you dont want the copper colored stubs penetrating thru the wall, you can hide these by terminating the copper supply lines just inside the wall cavity, and sweat a threaded coupling on each line . Chrome nipples can then be screwed into the couplings.... , then attach the chrome shut-offs, then the chrome supply lines. Or, to avoid a possible future leak between the nipple and the threaded coupling, simply paint the copper colored stub with chrome spray paint.
Basically, the plumbing layout for a wall mounted sink is no different than if you were installing a pedestal sink....the supply lines and drain line will be visible when viewed underneath.
Under no circumstances should you "half-bury" a shut-off valve into a wall cavity.
When ceramic tiling, you should tile around each wall penetration as close as possible and use decorative chrome escutheon plates to hide the gaps.
Davo
I have seen it done two ways. One is to just do without a stop or have the stop at a manifold as mentioned earlier. If that will pass inspection where you are that would be my choice. The other way is to put the stops under the basin or sink run back through the wall and come out where the faucet will mount. I would not recommend covering any stop in the wall. I would go without stops if your inspection will allow it. It will be no different than a tub and shower valve as far as not having a stop at the fixture. Edit to add that this reply was meant to go to the original poster.
Edited 8/20/2006 11:29 pm by ccal
I need to know what you are trying to hook-up. Wall mounted faucets valves most of the time go under the sink; the tube is then run solid to the faucet, I need more info. There has got to be a place where the water line comes up where you can add valves.
Edited 8/20/2006 10:42 am ET by Shacko
I'm guessing you are installing a wall type faucet for a bath vessel sink or a pot filler type faucet for kitchen...
I've just ran into this and got an ok from the inspector to run the water lines in PEX and home run them back to a manifold with cut offs there... he was actually cool with us putting the cut offs anywhere we could get to them... anyway this kept everything in tha wall....
p
Why can't you put an access panel in the wall? Wall tiles are generally 4" or smaller with grout lines of 1/8" or less (read on as to why I mention this).
Assuming this is a bathroom installation, for the access panel, position it next to the nearest stud and tight to the underside of the sink. (By tight, I mean leave one partial or full tile under the sink, then the access panel.) The access panel should be as small as possible, certainly no larger than 8" square, but I would likely make it 4"x4" (1 tile) or 4"x8" (two tiles hung vertically).
To make the panel, screw and mastic a scrap of clear, straight 2x2 along one edge of one side of a piece of 1/2" plywood cut to the size of the panel. (If the panel is 4x4, I'd probably use 3/8" plywood.) Then screw and mastic regular tile backerboard to the opposite (front) side of the plywood, thus covering that side. Use Soss hidden hinges to fix the access panel to the stud. Soss hinges are very strong and will not sag when properly installed. Install the tile(s) to the backerboard as you normally would. Don't grout around the access panel. Tucked up close under a wall-mount sink, it won't be visible unless you're really looking for it.
I would also suggest keeping the fill tubes between the stops and faucets (manifold or individual faucets) solid (i.e., no joints in the tubes themselves). Joints are where leaks are most likely to occur, so have as few as possible inside your walls. For a short run, use either PEX or standard stainless clad flex tubing. For a longer run, use either PEX or a dishwasher fill tube (they're 6' long stainless clad flex).
Regarding the stops, only use 1/4 turn ball stops. Old style stops always fail (the bib washer in the valve deteriorates over time and then you can't turn them off completely when you need to).
The only other advice I'd proffer is that you check with your local inspector prior to the installation just to make sure it meets code in your area (that is unless you want to have to do the job twice! LOL!!).
If you are in Oakland, CA and are interested, I would be happy to get together face to face to discuss the issue. I live in Berkeley. You can reply via e-mail and we can meet.
Good luck what ever you choose.
Edited 8/20/2006 4:48 pm by luckymudster