Replies

1. 
   Scott | Jan 18, 2010 08:53pm | #1

   My brother put these throughout his fancy multi-millibuck place in LA. In his case I think he was more concerned with being different than with any sort of performace issue. We've visited a few times, and they seem to work well.

   If you don't get the info you need I can ask about the manufacturer.

   As for installation and roughin prep, I can't help much.

1. 
   rdesigns | Jan 20, 2010 10:03am | #10

   If this is going to be on a wood-framed floor, there is the real possibility of having it develop a leak over time.

   Not saying it can't be done successfully, but make certain that the mounting bracket is super-secured to a super-stable floor.

   The leverage on the bracket can be huge when you think of your 300-lb BIL sitting on the front edge of the toilet--especially if you install the elongated bowl.

   I had to re-set one once for a guy with a 300-lb son. The nutrient-rich ;-) leaking was nurturing a crop of small mushrooms sprouting thru the carpet at the back. (Don't ask why he was dumb enough to use carpet under a wall-mount WC.)

2. 
   DanH | Jan 18, 2010 09:56pm | #2

   Note that there are a couple of options in case you don't have large enough pipes for one:

   1) You can purchase a wall mount unit with a tank you hide in the wall -- the tank is designed to fit between studs. (This unit is designed for residential use, and has less of a commercial appearance.)

   2) You can use a regular wall mount unit and then hide a pressure tank (like used in a well system) somewhere nearby, with a large pipe between tank and toilet.

   Also note that there are fully wall-hung units and also units that attach through the wall but still have "feet" to relieve some of the weight. These lose the big advantage of wall-hung units commercially -- you can't swish a mop under them -- but they still have "the look" and have the rear exit, if that's needed for some structural reason.

   The critical thing with a wall-hung unit is (obviously) secure mounting. Generally there's a bracket that goes in the wall and bolts to the floor, or to a frame behind the wall. The toilet hangs on that, not the wall itself.

1. 
   gfretwell | Jan 18, 2010 10:58pm | #3

   Thanks guys.

   We are looking for one that is completely wall mounted, nothing on the floor. We are going for a totally clean floor with a roll in shower (no door, no curb).

   It appears there are 2 wall mounting systems for the most common toilets. Geberit and Grohe.

   I am hearing the vacuum breaker valves may need 80psi water to work. I don't have that.

   I am still in the learning phase right now but I do have my plumber coming tomorrow. I just want to know enough to talk to him

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Jan 19, 2010 06:25am | #4

   I haven't looked into
   I haven't looked into residential wall hung toilet, but have a ton of maintenance experience expeience with commercial wall hung units.

   Zurn, and Slaon are the two flush valves we use. The smallest supply line for either valve is 3/4", so even the low flush volumes exceed volume for most residential toilets.

   I'll look up the pressure requirements in our literature if you like, but with the screww driver stop valve we commonly adjust the flush pressure down from full force to just enough to empty the bowl without washing someones butt(we have auto flusher on the valves so if you wiggle to much they will flush while one is still on the thrown).

   The mounting to the wall is by four bolts that are threaded through the mountingflang inside the wall and stick through the finish wall. Four cap nuts secure the toilet to the flang and wall. Backing nuts on the bolts prevent the unit from bearing on the wall at all. Virtually all the weight of the unit and user are carried by the mounting flang and transferred to the floor. The seal is a foam gasket that glues to the discharge side of the toilet with a low tack adhesive provided with the seal kit.

   Probably as inportant as securing the mounting system to the floor inside the wall is the adjust ment of the mounting bolts that project through the wall. get them right and the rest of the assmbly is easy.

   Ask away.

   I'll answer as specifics as you think of them.

1. 
   gfretwell | Jan 19, 2010 11:16am | #5

   Thanks Dave. I think we are probably not going to be able to use the flush valve because I am not sure I can get that much water to it. My wife is also not thrilled with the "bus station" look.

   We are currently looking at a Gerberit in the wall tank system. That looks like it may be the easiest way to go.

   http://www.geberit.us/CompleteDrawings/RI111-335-00-5.pdf

   I guess it is "only money" ;-)

1. 
   Scott | Jan 19, 2010 01:28pm | #6

   >>>My wife is also not thrilled with the "bus station" look.

   Hahahaha....I'll try to think of a way to work that line into conversation the next time I visit my bro. Good one.

3. 
   madmadscientist | Jan 19, 2010 02:14pm | #7

   I bought a wall hung American Standard toliet that looks very traditional...and its waaay cheaper than the options you've already looked at.

   Go here

   http://www.easycarts.net/ecarts/terrylove/American_Standard_toilets.html

   Scroll to bottom of page show's the toilet and the super beefy wall mount flange.

   Haven't installed it yet but for us I needed a back discharge toilet cause my waste line was above the level of the slab.

   Great thing about wall hungs is you can set them at any height you want. I think I've going to set mine at 18"!

1. 
   Skoorb | Jan 19, 2010 03:10pm | #8

   I regret not reading about these more before doing my basement bathroom. In actual fact a wall mount toilet would have saved me a lot of below-concrete plumbing and hassle. It's just that it seems very few people make use of these. They either go with conventional on a platform, break the concrete, or in cases where sewer is too high they get a pump-based unit.

2. 
   gfretwell | Jan 19, 2010 03:42pm | #9

   She really wants to get away from the tank. I had to buy a one piece (of crap) Kohler for the other bathroom. We call it the #1 toilet because a decent #2 plugs it up.

   I am really looking at a Toto with either the Geberit or Grohe in wall system. That is a dual flush with push button controls.

   As a percentage of the cost of this project it is really pretty insignificant, maybe $5 hundred extra.

   After all, that is the centerpiece of that particular room. ;)

4. 
   gfretwell | Jan 23, 2010 02:26pm | #11

   Update, I decided on the TotoCT418FG on a Geberit 355 bracket.

   By the time you get all the widgets it ends up being a tad over $1,000.

   Ira Woods seemed to have he best deal online. Nobody locally stocked it.

1. 
   Scott | Jan 23, 2010 03:53pm | #12

   >>>it ends up being a tad over $1,000.

   Whooooeee.... you're gonna feel like a king sittin' on that one. All hail Ye Royal Flush.

5. 
   sunsen | Jan 23, 2010 05:43pm | #13

   The last three houses I built have wall mounted toilets. Seems everybody wants 'em now.

   The best thing about them is cleaning. You don't have to clean around the base of the toilet when doing the floors. Big advantage.

   Geberit makes the toilets and, if I recall correctly, duravit makes the carriers. I'd have to ask my plumber for sure.

   They look a lot cleaner too. Less bulk.

1. 
   gfretwell | Jan 24, 2010 10:23am | #14

   Another thing that made it attractive for us was the depth is several inches smaller so it is easier to make a small bathroom accessible. The tank gets recessed into the 2x6 wall.