Hey folks, I’m brand new to this forum. Hoping you can lend some experience and ideas to a remodel I’m working on. Most of our basement is finished space. There is a 12’x15′ storage room that I’m working one converting to a home office. As it stands today, the ceiling and three of the walls are finished (drywall, electical, etc) however the opening to the room is the entire 12′ span on the one end. That 12′ span has a 3-ply 2×12 pine beam running its full length as a load bearing member (the rest of the basement along that same axis has a load bearing wall). The plan is to build in walls in that opening and add a pair of french doors in the center of it.
To accomodate proper 80′ doors, I’m replacing the pine beam with a W6x15 steel I-beam as spec’ed by my engineer. The wall and doors will run underneath. Now here’s my deliemma. The beam is 6 inches wide. Obviously a 2×4 or 2×6 wall underneath is not going to cover the full width. Additionally, I need room between the beam and the drywall for electrical to drop from above for light switches and a pair of outlets. So I’m looking for thoughts on how best to build these walls.
One thought I had was to use 2×8’s running up to the joists and just notch out the area at the top of them where the beam will be. This would give me 1.5 inches between the beam and the drywall. Another thought I had was to build 2×4 walls next to (toward the inside of the room) rather than under the beam. I could then build a soffit around the beam but obviously would be giving up a few more inches in the overall dimensions of the room.
Personally, I and the engineer would like to have the walls under the beam to help assist with deflection. However, the beam does pass L/360 without so it isn’t a requirement. I can’t have any soffit’s inside the office because I plan to run crown molding around the entire room and soffit would just look lame in that regard. So I’m looking for some creative ideas on how to approach this. Your assistance is appreciated.
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If I understand correctly.........
Build your wall proud on the non office side. This will allow you to pass your wiring for both sides of the wall.
Make up your wall thickness to allow for the above but the frame to be flush on the office side. This keeps a no soffit on that side.
As far as drywall-glue (PL PREMIUM) and cram blocks into the web of the steel to give you upright nailers that continues your stud layout up into the steel.
As far as crown, you'll have those blocks to nail to. If you wish or need blocking on the ceiling-take care of that now-b/4 drywall.
So, wire chase on one side-flush to steel on the office side.
Need a picture, I did a job like that this past fall and probably can find some.
Here you go:
View Image
Shown at steel, bottom plate (just proud of the edge of steel) plumb down from 2x nailer fastened during original construction. ) Roughly 2x2 blocks are glued and force fit upright between steel flanges.
Thanks I think I follow, but let me clarify...
The wall would have to be built proud to the office side, not the non-office side of the beam correct? Otherwise I'd have protrusion of the beam into the office which is what I'm trying to avoid (trying to kep the wall flat floor to cieling for the crown). The way I'm seeing it from your picture, the photo is taken from inside of what in my case would be the office area. Just out of curiosity, how far do the studs and plates protrude from the edge of the steel in your example (if you can recall)?
Thanks for the help and photo!!
Nope, let me clarify
View Image
The framing-plate below and above the steel and the blocks are all in plane with the bottom and top flanges of the steel.
A straight edge would be flat on the studs, kiss the plates and blocks and maybe................just maybe, touch the flanges.
Your finish would go straight up the studs, just clearing the outer most edges of the steel.
I'll see if I can crop a better detail of that.
If you want the wall beyond on the other side so you can run your wiring, add that to the width of the beam bottom-that would be your stud size-------bottom flange of steel + space needed for your wiring.
So you really only need to span the width of the door
If you are building a load bearing wall under wall everywhere except door, you might be able to down size the steel beam considerably, and end up with one that will not protrude as much and cost considerably less.
You need to talk to the engineer again.
Not building a load bearing wall
The ooriginal idea was to build load bearing walls in from either side and only span the width of the doors (2-ply microlam would have done the trick). However there is no footing under that span so I'd have had to cut, dig and pour footings. Due to other complications in the area this was going to be a majorly difficult task. So instead the plan is to replace the current beam with a smaller steel beam to span the width from footing to footing and then build non-bearing walls underneath.
Ok yeah I follow...
In your example the studs are flush with the edge of the steel. I am looking to have some space between the drywall and steel for the electrical. That's how I got to the 2x8 idea (6 inch wide flange with 2x8's would give me 1.5 inches to work in) but using a top plate and blocks in the beam web as you suggested rather than notching the studs is definitely a better approach.
intech..............
I still don't have your complete understanding.
Yes, the frame and steel on the office side is flush.
But no, you missed where I suggested placing your other side wall (Living room?) beyond your steel-to give you the space you say you need to run electric.
So, an example:
Bottom of steel = 6"
you want 1-1/2" for wiring room.
Total 2x4 width-7-1/2"...............................bogus, make it 7-1/4" (2x8) and push the envelope on the 1-1/2" normally allowed for non metalic protected wiring.
Flush on office side-projected out on the other side.
Clearer yet?
Oh I got ya....
Now I see what you're saying, still a wider than typical wall but put the spacing on the non-office side (sorry I must be more dense then usual today). That'll actually work a lot nicer with some of the other complications I'm working around. Amazing that it's such a simple idea yet I never thought to put the spacing on the away side. Cool, now I can start thinking about a lumber order :)
Ta Da!
Okay, I think I managed to convey the message.
It's Friday, there's hockey on and you're buy'n.
Nothin's free buddy.
Best of luck.
I don't care for any wall that is wider than needed for the application so I'd build the wall the same width as the beam - add blocking on the sides of the beam for sheetrock and trim.
Fair enough...
Fair enough but with drywall flush up against the beam flanges on both sides what would be your plan for getting electrical into the wall from above? The beam runs essentially the full length of the wall and being a basement it has to be dropped from above.
Electrical can't be dropped into another wall and run around the corner to this wall?