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Discussion Forum

walls in the basement

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 6, 2002 06:24am

*
I have had a few people give me advice on putting walls in a basement and want to run some of these past you guys to see what would be the best way.

1) make the wall a 1/4′ shorter, that way you can stand it up in place. Then you just shim the 1/4′

2)use a double bottom plate, attaching the first one to the floor. Build your wall normally, subtracting the 1-1/2 for the plate the has been secured to the floor. Then lift the wall up onto the bottom plate.

3) Then I heard you attach the top plate to the joists, get a plumb bob to find out where the bottom plate goes, then cut the studs to fit in between.

All these make sense, but what is the best way and why?

Any advice would prove helpful…Thanks

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Replies

  1. Mike_Smith | Jan 23, 2002 01:04am | #1

    *
    there is no "best" way.. it depeds on what you are trying to do.. the 3d method is only called for if you are trying to get solid bearing... cut each stud snug to fit...

    the 1st method is the most common...

    the 2d one is the easiest to screw up... what looked like a level floor usually isn't , so the wall might not fit..

    1. Matthew_Steadman | Jan 23, 2002 03:51am | #2

      *I like the third way when I'm not pressed for time. It makes for extra sturdy walls. I always start from the bottom and work up though. It's easier to lay out on the floor nail the bottom plate down and plumb up.

      1. pantango | Jan 23, 2002 02:20pm | #3

        *What do you use to plumb up? I see how you would attach the upper plate and hang a plumb bob. what do you use to line the top plate with the bottom plate?

        1. Matthew_Steadman | Jan 24, 2002 05:49am | #4

          *I use two levels. I put my 6' against the plate, 4' against the 6' and be careful to mark the right side of the level. I mark both ends then chalk a line. It's quick and easy.

          1. Steve_Weeks | Jan 24, 2002 06:50am | #5

            *Most of us don't have six foot levels. My current longest is two feet, though I did have a four footer when I thought I could learn to lay bricks from a book on the subject. I was most successful in buying the tools and later in writing a check to correct my mistakes. Luka is right -- plumb bobs work both ways. But Luka has no money, so her solutions may not adequately tweak male urges for tools. So go out and buy those levels. The yellow one claims it can be thrown on a concrete floor and still be true, so I'd do that in the store. If they don't blink, it's probably true.

          2. Luka_ | Jan 24, 2002 08:11am | #6

            *ROFLMFAOLuka doesn't have any money. This is true. And his urge for tools is never adequately tweaked. Even if Luka had the money to spend on some fine levels, (and believe me, he would in a heartbeat), he would still get out the plumb bob for this job. It is one thing to lust after tools, it is another to waste time trying to find some kludgey way to use those tools just so you can justify them. I would find plenty enough uses for a 6 or 8 foot level, to justify having spent the money on it. I would not waste my time trying to hold it and another level together whilst trying to keep them plumb and make a mark, all at the same time. Just lay the bottom plate, then hang the plunb bob. When it is centered on the edge of the plate at the bottom, make a mark on the joist where the string contacts it at the top. Simple, one step, and you don't have to have three hands.

          3. nathan_wegemer | Jan 24, 2002 10:10am | #7

            *a fast way with bob is to set a nail and hang the bob close to where you think the plate is, but don't waste a second getting the thing hanging. Steady the bob, and measure the difference between plate edge and bob. Go back to the nail and transfer this measurement over and mark. this is still much slower than two levels. Six seconds or so with two levels. How are things up there? Got a 4wheeler now, can I come up and say hi sometime?

          4. Luka_ | Jan 24, 2002 10:35am | #8

            *Nathan you're welcome anytime. Absolutely. Let me know ahead of time, is all I ask. I've spent the vast majority of the past couple months sleeping. S.A.D. Doesn't make getting any real work done, very easy. I haven't even had enough emotional and mental strength left over after getting the normal daily stuff done, to write up a good update lately. I spend my time where the experience is the best for just plain survival.... Here at Taunton. The days are getting longer though, and I am hoping that within a month, I'll be getting back to getting things done again.Met up face to face with a one-eyed bear the other night, after dark. Told about it over in Sprout-off. The 'january is off and running' discussion.b : )Yer spending too much time trying to get that bob perfectly still. If yer up there at the top. you move it over to where the bob hits the plate, then very slowly move the string back until the bob basicaly straightens out, and make yer mark. Takes twenty or thirty times as long to describe it as to do it.

          5. Matthew_Steadman | Jan 25, 2002 05:31am | #9

            *Plum bobs are great when when you need them, like for long drops or in between level sizes. I've just found the two level method lots faster. Anyway, the point I was going for was to work from the ground up. Bobs or levels its's faster to build from the ground up.

          6. Mike_Maines_ | Jan 25, 2002 07:47am | #10

            *Another vote for two levels, starting at the bottom. Tried every other way and two levels works quickly and accurately for me. And the 6' yellow one does take a hell of a beating.

          7. nathan_wegemer | Jan 25, 2002 08:49am | #11

            *Luka. I noticed the days were getting longer the other night. Heartening.That bear is probably talking about running into you as well...I think you might finish when I do, but you'll be off a little. Unless you be sooo smooooth with the helping the bob to stop wobbling. Don't forget winding the string back onto yer little stick, either. Ever seen plum Barbara? I mean plumb Parabara?

          8. Luka_ | Jan 25, 2002 10:11am | #12

            *Yup, At least an hour and a half longer now than they were in mid-december.Aw shaddup, you think I'm proud knowing that I am the brunt of 'stupid human' jokes between a couple bears ?Nathan, yer being entirely too congenial. Tis the season for flames. It's the time of year that everyone breaks out in flame-fests here on the forums. Here I am trying to start something, and you are just being agreeable. Hmph. I guess I'll have to go start something in the shed.Never heard of a parabara.

          9. nathan_wegemer | Jan 26, 2002 09:08am | #13

            *Barbara. ....... plumb Barbara.....it was a typo.... which you would have noticed if you were able to take your eyes off the gently swinging, back and forth, back and forth, so shiny and pointy and nice shiny brass plumb Bob.....

          10. Randy_Rogers | Feb 05, 2002 09:56pm | #14

            *There is nothing like a simple, heavy, plumb bob for establishing a dependable, accurate line (2 points then snap chalk). I've got a couple of those "yellow levels" all marked up with arrows pointing to vial that is still accurate. Have new Stabila level that is to last longer - we'll see. Just some thoughts. Randy

          11. Mark_"if_I_were_a_carpenter | Feb 06, 2002 03:43am | #15

            *I agree that although a plumb bob will work, it's slow. If you don't have two levels, just use the one you have and a good straight 2x4 cut to length. Just make sure you hold the level as close to the center of the 2x4 as you can to improve accuracy.

          12. The_Sweaty_Carpenter | Feb 06, 2002 06:24am | #16

            *I remodel in the Kansas City area where the building codes require that walls constructed in the basement be built in such a way that there is a one inch expansion gap between the wall and the floor joists above. This gap is supposed to prevent heaving basement floors from pushing up the walls, and conaequently the floor joists above. Don't as k me if this makes sense - it is the code and I must adhere to it.Wnat I do is layout the walls on the floor, plumb up with a plumb bob, install a top plate directly to the bottom of the floor joists, then build a stud wall in entirety exactly 1" less than the height to the bottom of the newly attached top top-plate. I then raise the wall, shoot down the bottom plate, then using my trusty Paslode framing nailer, shoot through th top plate of the wall section - into the top plate already attached to the floor joists. I use lots of nails, leaving the 1" gap, but stabilized by the extra nails. Eventually the drywall bridges the gap,. and is itself capable of buckling under pressure if, indeed, the floor heaves upwards. This method proves simple, satisfies code, and is surprisingly easy.Hope this helps!Ken - the Sweaty Carpenter

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