WANTED – end nippers from Hell
@@@
The crew is pulling fascia and the roofers leave a lot of nails that have to be cut flush. We use – sawsall, compound nail cutter, grinder, end nippers and, on occasion, naughty language.
The end nippers are not sized for manly nails. I see some with 8″ handles but wonder if anyone makes a serious set of nippers that can snip thicker nails all day without wearing out a hand.
Moi – I like the grinder, but it depends on access.
The ToolBear
“You can’t save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice.” Dogbert
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please. Click Here for a complete selection.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Looks like the nail jack. Seem to recall a review in Tool Snob. Probably not for a fascia crew. Pulling roofing nails thru...Anyone ever used one? The boys come with dull cats paws, nail pullers that - to moi - seem too short for much leverage and small side cutters.I cast about and found that Channelock makes 10 and 14" end cutters. Those might work. I am inclined to the 14"The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I've salvaged a lot of barn wood over the years. You don't always have to nip all the way thru, just enough to snap off the nail after a deep score.
Hoof trimmers I have, great for the leverage and reach, lousy for staying sharp, hooves and shoe nails are soft, so the trimmers are soft steel too. And exp. unless yardsale finds or cast offs from a farrier.
So far the best I found and use most are Channel lock Tile nippers.
That nail jack looks like it would be enough to cut and snap, and the off set handles seem like a good idea. I may get a pr. ( I just got the email before you posted) and give em a whirl.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Superior tile tools make a compound tile nipper. That may be just what you are looking for.Craig
So far the best I found and use most are Channel lock Tile nippers.@@@I will take a look. Got a pair of Channelock 10" end nippers and Young Rob is using them. He was liking them. I think the tile nippers have an offset cutter head, which is a point he raised. Hope they have 10" handles.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
those look like Knipex brand. Do you know if they are?
I have great luck with everything from Knipex.
Might be, they do make serious cutters.
some one liked my Channel locks as much as I, and they vanished , my roof pair, I have a pr. in the shop too.
GW is often spendy, but them I linked are a decent price.
I had a set of horsehoof trimmers with dovetailed in hardend ends, they were in the shop fire and lost, never saw another Pr. like them since, I miss them babies.
Most shoe nails are pewter like, and get clinched over or snapped off and rasped flush, so the cutters aren't very hard steel. I got about 5 pr of them, great for pulling, not so good for cutting comon nails.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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pricy......nice but I think I'll pass
What 30 bucks or so?
You must not shop much. Thats about a 1/4 of the hoof nippers posted!
The offset handles look inviting, but awkward in a tool pouch.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
why couldn't you just heat up your straight one and bend it?
I've done stuff like that, even turned old hoofnippers into blacksmith tongs. The problem is the temper is then gone. and some you can't retemper just the handles w/out losing the edge temper from phantom heat. And also the steels used don't like being work hardened again and can break.
I have a set of fret nippers (real nice Japanese quality) and they only cut soft fret wire, think they ran about 70 bucks. I just suck it up and buy the right tool when I can.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
fret nippers? do you fret guitars? my Strat is past due :)
Yup. and an authorized repairman for Guild,Martin, Gibson, Kaaman, Ibanez and Fender. Anoung others that require auth.
I built Smith Bass's and Ibanez USA RG's, and was production eng. for the now defunct PBC Guitar Tech.
Short stint at Martin and been making custom Danelectro copies in my spare time. MAde a few Hamer knock offs and Rickenbacker styles too.
where ya live? shipping is a killer for a fret job.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
HOLY SMOKES!! I wish you where my neighbor, St. Louis
I'll check and see if I can find an ASIA member there.
Assoc.of Stringed.Instrument.Artisans. I have a dirctory somewhere in a box.
Frets on a Strat with set up, vary if its a maple or rosewood, and with set up and strings, shouldn't exceed about 175. A severe wire size change can up that cost, new slots cut and all.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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thanks!
Don't let just any one have at it, even a Squire strat, needs a decent fret job, and god knows, and old one, needs TLC or you have ruined it.
I get up in the boxes in a bit...and get back at you.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
here's some pics of her
I can't find the member directory, and mine is old any way. But searchin the site, I don't see any members in ST.Louis , Mo.
Now I have to re join, I let it lapse when I lost my shop in a fire, and haven't reupped. Time to do that I guess.
Heres the site. http://www.guitarmaker.org/index.php?option=com_cb_search&Itemid=56
Yor next option is find a GOOD music store / repair shop and know what questions to ask.
You have a rosewood board, they don't get damaged as easily as Maple when refretting. And any chipping at the slots is easily fixed. I heat my frets with a solder iron before I go to yanking. And I glue the new in with cyanoacrylate, so's to not have a void under the fret tang in the slot. Affects the tone greatly.
Nice axe..that you? You don't look like a republican (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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thats me jamin in prime blues country, Soulard (in st. louis)it is a fine guitar, 79, it says "the strat" on the headstock, gold plated hardware and weighs a ton. You should hear it in 60's vibrolux!!me no repub. where you at?
I'm across the big muddy in the center of Ky. ( depending on which side you are on).
If you liked the OEM frets, I'd mic. them and order them. I use Stewart -MacDonald http://www.stewmac.com for parts and supplies, great bunch of guys up there in Ohio. If ya run into a conundrum, they are there to answer any questions and suggest new stuff.
Thats where to buy the fret nippers!!! Now we're back on track..LOL.
I got my good ones from Hoshino, the parent co. of Ibanez, when we made them at PBC.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
actually there are about a half dozen guys around that do refrets
for about the price range you said. Thats a good tip about heating
them up. I am going up to a bigger size, it has the thin ones on it
and they just wear to quick for radical blues bending LOL
I just opened the big pics on my gooder computer, yeah, I'd say ya needed frets on the LAST set, not this one coming up..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
heres another of the crew, I wish you could hear these cats..
Do I see an Alembic Bass back there?
You ever see Ken Smith? Man, they are the coolest, well, were, when it was me and Michael Dresdner making them..
View ImageSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Alembic Bass back there?yes I believe it is... I'm gettin in the mood I'm goin wed. nightever make to st. louis lemme know.
Will do.
Ok, I wasted enough morning here..LOL I GOTTA get some work going in the shop..I'm like 3 weeks behind.
Later dude.
Play loud.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Those are good for pulling nails, but these would be better for cutting them off. Garrett wade Item 62K15.07 30° Offset-Head Industrial Nail/Wire CuttersI can't make the link work
Edited 11/21/2009 8:19 am ET by Dam_inspector
I sometimes do the , PULL, squeeze hard enough to partly cut, snap it off, and tap back till buried.
works for me.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
You might try something like this:
http://www.bikepartsplace.com/discount/spoke-end-nippers-c-216/
Used for cutting stainless-steel bike spokes.
You might try something like this:http://www.bikepartsplace.com/discount/spoke-end-nippers-c-216/Used for cutting stainless-steel bike spokes@@@@ Thanks...Interesting tool. I assume that if you can cut a SS spoke, a cheap roofing nail is mere child's play, but I don't know. Never cut one.Like the compound action.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Yeah, I have no idea how easy they'd work for your job (or how large a nail they'd be able to handle), but they're designed for cutting fairly hard stuff flush.
A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter
I own a really big pair of end nippers, but I wouldn't want to use them all day. What about a small pair of bolt cutters and an angle grinder to finish? That would take the least muscle...
I own a really big pair of end nippers, but I wouldn't want to use them all day. What about a small pair of bolt cutters and an angle grinder to finish? That would take the least muscle...@@@@These studs have the muscle (just ask). However, I wondered about the fatigue level with a big nipper. The bolt cutters mean you have to make two passes - and power is always an issue on these jobs. Maintenance outlets - wash your mouth out! Cart with gen set - and that's on another job.I really have to find what happened to my little bolt cutters. I was inspired by trying to cut a chain link fence. It was not happening.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
toolbear
Hoof trimmers work great.
http://www.hoof-trimmers.com/osCommerce/product_reviews.php?cPath=8&products_id=475&osCsid=e7a1d60b9dc9b68ff7deb97040a2ca0f
KK
Never would have though of a hoof trimmer. The value of Breaktime - all sorts of ideas on tap.@@@Guys, isn't anyone watching TV on a Thur. night instead of roaming the web?I have an excuse. Both my RCA - a once proud name - converter boxes have died after a few months. The second one passed away at 0503 yesterday. Probably CCC - Cheap Chinese C**p. No TV. DW likes it. I don't watch it much. Will watch the Xmas and Post Xmas sales for a flat screen, 32". The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Try Zenith/Insignia/LG if you buy another converter. It got the best ratings from the converter blogs I read. We bought an RCA also, just to spend gov't coupon and experiment. The RCA is in storage, as a backup I guess, its no match in number or channels received where we are (50 miles from metro).
Try Zenith/Insignia/LG if you buy another converter.@@@I think I will break down and go flat screen. Then a new antenna.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Not totally sure if thes will help I like them. they're used to reach under siding and nip the nails. They'll will cut quite a sizable nail.
http://malcoimages.com/details.php?image_id=129
We have to cut our nails that hold down the sleeves after they strip the form.
4 nails per sleeve average 350 sleeves per floor.
A whopping 1400 nails per floor multiplied by 66 floors------ 92,400 nails----- I'm sure glad I'm not a helper anymore.
A plurality of the nails were ground off by the grinding crew, the rest were left to our helpers & apprentices with end cutters.
We fabricated 4' conduit handles for the end cutters handles to slide into.
The initial purpose was for reach, but we found out that extra leverage made quick work of the cutting process.
We fabricated 4' conduit handles for the end cutters handles to slide into.The initial purpose was for reach, but we found out that extra leverage made quick work of the cutting process.@@@@Plumbbill - still working up in the NorthWet? Der Bear is down in SoCal, wearing shorts.The idea of handles is very interesting. I suspect it might be possible to walk along and nip instead of moving ladders. (At least in the case of car ports and first story flat stuff. How do you secure the conduit to the handles? Set screw? Coupler?The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Yup, still at the BRAVERN ---- if it weren't for stupid plumbers I wouldn't have a job.
I'm the "fix-it" guy right now getting plenty of use with the sawzall on finished walls ;-)
We use wedges drove in to hold the handles inside the conduit.
Yup, still at the BRAVERN ---- if it weren't for stupid plumbers I wouldn't have a job.I'm the "fix-it" guy right now getting plenty of use with the sawzall on finished walls ;-)@@@ Can I suggest the mulitmaster or clone? We had a whole set of repairs at Apartments X. First drill hole in the back of each furnace chase. Insert camera snake, take pix. Admire. Hooking the flue to the furnace is, I quess, optional. Make notes. And you say you've had CO issues? Really?Go back, cut out the DW above the furnace. Fix the problem - like - attach the B vent - repair the hole. I used my Dremel with half moon blade to cut out the DW. Did very well. Fine control. Not too much dust. Last unit was the Friday Unit From Hell - starting with black furniture. Glass top table in way. I am making white dust. Go from there.@@@We use wedges drove in to hold the handles inside the conduit.Bought a 10" pair of end cutters. Gave to one of the troops to try out. He was a happy camper by mid AM. Lots more leverage. Got to see about extension handles. He would like the cutter head to extend a bit more off the handles so he can get in odd spots w/out hitting the bolt.@@@@I find profit in the work of hack sparkies and sparkie wannabees. Traced an area lighting fault to a section of run under the parking lot. The Amprobe 4005 got to come out and say - There! (And it was right) Pulled the wires. The work of Lethal Electric - had two butt splices in each conductor (tape optional) in that run and one of them was a gonner. Others were giving it some thought. I admit that one just took my breath away. Now when I have another malf at that project (which has been a good provider) I have to consider that they probably have more butt splices down below. In fact, I have a list of several runs that are suspect. Or, in Lethal's case, suspecter. The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
how about horse shoe nippers? got long handles
Pneumatic nippers, made for rebar and mesh, model 8 with side cut blades.
http://genscoequip.com/materials/Rapid_Cut.pdf
Pneumatic nippers, made for rebar and mesh, model 8 with side cut blades.@@@I suspect those are a bit beyond my budget. I remember a nice set of hydraulic rigging wire cutters. Just pump them up and watch and 1/19 stainless wire part. They were spendy too.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Check out the 2000 series Klein sidecutters. http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/d248.html
I use those Klein side cutters every day. They'll cut a 16d but you don't want to do more than a few.
A couple of decades ago, I inherited a pair of nippers from a family friend. Most of his tools were fairly junky, but those nippers are a godsend. I'm pretty sure that they're a hundred years old by now -- quite dinged up and with a heavy patina of rust.
The handles are probably 14" long, and it has replaceable blades -- but after using them to cut roofers and sinkers for twenty years, there's never been a need. The blades have no chips of marks.
The only products that I've ever seen that come close are (as someone already mentioned) hoof nippers. The ones that I saw were at an agricultural supply house.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
The handles are probably 14" long, and it has replaceable blades -- but after using them to cut roofers and sinkers for twenty years, there's never been a need. The blades have no chips of marks.@@@Channel lock has 14" nippers. It seems at 10" and beyond, you have enough leverage.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Why don't you get every tool suggested, try them out and write a review. You can then sell the ones you don't want and the money from the article will pay for the others.
Trying to post a picture od 2 pairs of dykes I have for cutting nails. THe top pair is a 10 1/2" pair of ChannelLocks that I used to get at Depot for about $14, although I haven't seen them there lately. They will cut framing gun nails, but not old 20d. The other pair is from Harbor Freight and 16" El cheapo's, but they cut anything and were only $15 or so.
Kimball
Sorry for the size and double picture post, still trying to figure this out.
Edited 11/20/2009 12:49 pm ET by Kimball
Trying to post a picture od 2 pairs of dykes I have for cutting nails. THe top pair is a 10 1/2" pair of ChannelLocks that I used to get at Depot for about $14, although I haven't seen them there lately. They will cut framing gun nails, but not old 20d. The other pair is from Harbor Freight and 16" El cheapo's, but they cut anything and were only $15 or so.@@@@Tnx for taking the time to post the pix. Harbor Freight? I will hit their catalog. 16" and cheapo. Crew might like that. As noted previously, Young Rob was doing well with a pair of 10" CLs I bought for testing. Depot still has the 10" nippers - as of this a.m.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
When space and risk of fire allow, i usually resort to my cordless Makita 4 1/2 in. grinder with a metal cutoff wheel.
It works fast and easy but tends to damage the wood.
When space and risk of fire allow, i usually resort to my cordless Makita 4 1/2 in. grinder with a metal cutoff wheel.@@@Likewise - or the Milwaukee 4.5 if we have power. You can go down a row of nails, buzzing them off fairly fast.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I cut millions of spikes with my Makita power saw and Marathon blades. As long as you don't push hard, the teeth don't get knocked off or chipped.
cut millions of spikes with my Makita power saw and Marathon blades. As long as you don't push hard, the teeth don't get knocked off or chipped.@@@Tough getting at the nails with a saw up under the drip edge and other flashings. Often hard with a 4.5 grinder. Often harder to get AC power. The gen set is down at the bin, running the table saw and Skill 77.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
If you can get nippers to the nail, why wouldn't I be able to get a blade to it?
f you can get nippers to the nail, why wouldn't I be able to get a blade to it?@@@The nippers are narrow and can reach straight up into narrow spaces between flashings and joist. I often have trouble getting a 4.5" grinder into spaces.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I see. Would an air chisel do anything?
Would an air chisel do anything?@@@No. Like to try it, but have to provide compressor, hose, power for compressor, chisel, etc. Currently the crew is replacing a selected 2000 LF of fascia on an apartment complex. Painters coming behind. No power. Most of this work is done by the young bucks at lower hourly billing with small, dull nail pullers and cats paws. When I do it, I have an arsenal of tools, really sharp pullers to 13", a small wrecking bar, a large bar to lever the stuff off, etc. As Hugo noted, "You have many tools." Kid, that stuff in the van is just the tip of the iceberg.Given power (HOAs vs apartment projects), I usually cut the nails at the joints with a cordless recip, cut a V midpoint in the board and run a saw as high as possible along the board. That removes the the bulk, which goes to the saw for measurement and duplication. The kids try to split the board with their hammer claws. That works.A large crowbar up in the V is used to lever one end of the board down. The V makes it possible Once you have a gap, you work along, levering it down. When possible, set a 8-12' alum scaffold plank under the work (garages only). Walk along, crowbarring away. Then walk back cutting nails howsoever. This saves repeated ladder resets.By then Saw Guy has your board. We prime all the lumber on 6 sides and I like to topcoat same at the bin. That means instead of painting in place, with another set up, we put up a finished board. The last project I did had two color facia - in and out. Imagine trying to paint that after nailing it up. Forever and a paint mess. Just hit the new edges with Kilz. Fit into place. We usually cut kickers from the former fascia and wedge it up into layout, then nail it off. Caulk. Then go back and touch up with a damp brush or roller in the finish colors. Minimal muss and mess. The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I thought you were talking about replacing facia boards. On a residential job, there isn't any nails that I couldn't reach with my saw. The goal would be to get the fascia off without damaging the drip edge and your idea of ripping it continuously just below the drip would provide for that. I would then lay my blade along the subfacia and cut upward, cutting any remaining nails. The small rip would drop out unless roofing nails were driven into it from above. Those would be lifted out by lifting the shingles slightly. Is this a commercial fascia or residential?
The small rip would drop out unless roofing nails were driven into it from above. Those would be lifted out by lifting the shingles slightly.Is this a commercial fascia or residential?@@@We usually have a zillion roofing nails into the fascia. Air nailer makes it easy to do this. At times, 1 per inch.Crews are doing both resid. and commercial at this time.Our method is to pry the woood off the roofing nails, then cut them flush. Who has shingles. We usually have tiles.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
more nippers
http://www.crawfordtool.com/knipex_end_cutters.html
http://www.all2ools.com/index.pl/froogle?productid=CNL/148-14
more nippers ...@@@I have never used the Knipex tools. Have seen the 14 Chnl lock in ads. Love to try one.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Knipex are awesome, I have several of their tools, very precision, very tough, German made. I have a pair of dykes that are high leverage and good for piano wire, they cut anything.
Knipex are awesome, I have several of their tools, very precision, very tough, German made. I have a pair of dykes that are high leverage and good for piano wire, they cut anything.@@@Suitable for the ToolBear Collection of Fine Tools.The crew liked the idea of the $8 Harbor Freight nippers.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I have a few harbor freight tools, never tried any of the pliers or nippers. I have two Harbor freight stores close by, some stuff you're better off seeing in person.
I have a few harbor freight tools, never tried any of the pliers or nippers. I have two Harbor freight stores close by, some stuff you're better off seeing in person.@@@I do want to fondle first.Some of their stuff is actually quite good. I used their framer gloves and they wore as long at $8/pr than anything at HD for $20/pr. Alas! No longer in catalog. Their wire crimpers @ $15 have replaced my Ancor $50 crimpers. List goes on. But the sight of that sick orange on their power tools induces an allergic reaction.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
If you get tossed out for "fondle", I'll see you in the backroom over there at thewoodshedtavern dot com
If you get tossed out for "fondle", I'll see you in the backroom over there at thewoodshedtavern dot com@@@That where they send you for unauthorized tool fondling?The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
They don't care if you do that...you just can say that word.
Is there a list of the words you can't use on BT? Aside from the traditional Anglo Saxonism.Where is George Carlin when we need him? (Yes, I know.)The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Yes but its secret.
I know these will not work for you but in the interest of suggesting tools to remove nails I thought I would post them anyhoo.http://www.nailout.com/index.html?gclid=CIjQzcP125UCFQGVGgodYlEyYwhttp://www.nailkicker.com/joomla/
Appreciate the thought and info.That pneumatic puller is interesting. Our fascia nail removal protocol involves a number of folks on ladders, usually with rather dull nail pullers. Habitat could use that thing. Often a lot of strap nails to come out. Wrong size or what. A Nail is a Nail, right? 16d sinker, 10d HDG box, 8d sinker - same to you, same to me. Not same to inspector.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
The easy way is to use vise grips! Just clamp up tight to the wood and pivot side to side no more than 30-40 degrees and the nail will "pop" just below the surface.
The easy way is to use vise grips! Just clamp up tight to the wood and pivot side to side no more than 30-40 degrees and the nail will "pop" just below the surface.@@@That is an idea. I'll give one of the troops a set of grips and he can experiment. Tnx.The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
"The Extractor" Duluth Trading
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
That would pull the nail, head and all, through the roof deck. We just want the points to go away so we can install new fascia.
The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
Found a pair of these at the Outlet Tool Supply in Atascadero.
Let the crew try them. They like them. Bit longer and more leverage than the 10". Smaller head.
http://home-and-garden.become.com/shop?q=channellock+35-300+concretor+nipper
The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I have a pair of 35-250 nippers. Cut a couple nails on a basement window swap last week. Couldn't see what the heck I was doing, looking out into bright sun, trying to see through the bifocal part of my safety glasses. Got er done though.
looking out into bright sun, trying to see through the bifocal part of my safety glasses. Got er done though.@@@In recent weeks I always seem to be working in a strong backlight. I wear a headlight a lot.Do they make glasses with the bifocal bit at the top, not bottom?The ToolBear
"You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert
I knew a trim carpenter that had his bifocals built on top.http://thewoodshedtavern.com. = no peer mods!
I asked about that when I got these safety glasses, the answer that I got was they aren't available. I'm pretty sure that someone has them though.