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Washer washing basement

DANL | Posted in General Discussion on April 9, 2005 10:41am

After asking here about running new drain for my washing machine, I chickened out and hired a plumber–he just put a ‘Y’ in the house drain (which was indeed 4″ not 6 or 8 as I had said!), put in a trap and slapped a stand pipe on the trap and called it good–no vent. Now when the washer drains, the force shoots water out the stand pipe. We were straining the water through a nylon stocking, but are going to take that off and see if it helps.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll be back to draining it into a big container so it doesn’t overload the pipe so fast. Only problem is that the house drain is about 40″ off the floor, and the standpipe ends at about five feet, so the “reservoir” will have to be hung from the joists or some crazy thing! Told DW that just once I’d like to have something done and really have it be done! Dagnabbit!

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  1. YesMaam27577 | Apr 09, 2005 11:14pm | #1

    Now when the washer drains, the force shoots water out the stand pipe.

    Use a different connection, so that there is no possibility of a leak. You'll need to use a cheater vent -- I think they're called Studor Vents -- to prevent airlock problems.

    We were straining the water through a nylon stocking..........

    This baffles me. Why would you want to strain the dirty wash water before it goes to the septic/sewer system?

     

     

    Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

    1. DANL | Apr 10, 2005 04:09am | #2

      Draining through stocking supposedly to keep drain from plugging, but then I got to thinking if the drain doesn't get plugged with TP and sewage, why would some lint plug it? Yeah, I was going to use one of those Studor vents if I did it myself, but plumber said it wasn't necessary.

      1. User avater
        Luka | Apr 10, 2005 10:41am | #3

        Danno, put the vent in. Through the roof !And then seal the washer hose to the drain so water can't back up past it.If, after that, you have water coming out the vent, then you need to just replumb the whole "circuit", with larger pipe...

        The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.

  2. dude | Apr 10, 2005 11:03am | #4

    he should of hooked it in using a barbed fitting & a worm clamp ,if any water feeds back into the washer  hook in a plastic in-line checkvalve

    1. DANL | Apr 10, 2005 03:24pm | #5

      Thanks for the advice. Man, putting a vent through roof is not something I want to do--that'sa why I hired the freakin' plumber!! Check valve and or larger pipe may be at least a temporary fix. This is why I don't like "pro's" doing the work I could mess up for a lot cheaper!

  3. DanH | Apr 10, 2005 03:37pm | #6

    You don't say how long the pipe is from the standpipe to the Y. If it's more than a foot or so, and if the overflowing occurs fairly early in the drain cycle, then likely your overflow problem is lack of a vent, though a Studor won't help -- you need something to relieve the pressure during the initial surge of water.

    It's also possible that, due to the height, he cut the standpipe too short.

    You don't necessarily need to vent through the roof. If there is any nearby vent you can get to (eg, for a tub drain above) then you can use that.

    1. DANL | Apr 10, 2005 03:53pm | #7

      The standpipe ends about six feet off floor and drain is about four feet off floor. Nearest vent is the one that goes through roof--I (naively) thought he would put a 'T' or 'Y' on it and run a horizontal vent ten feet across basement, under the joists, to it. That's what I would have done--but meant cutting a cast iron stack. My next step will be to replace the 'Y' and trap and standpipe he put in with a larger diameter--he put in 2". I hate plumbing.

      1. allaround | Apr 10, 2005 06:43pm | #8

        Check this out as a possible solution.http://www.grainger.comUnder KEYWORDS search for SINK PUMPSee the attached drawing for what the install should look like. I didn't show it on the drawing, but there should be a check valve in the pump discharge line.Edited 4/10/2005 11:47 am ET by allaround

        Edited 4/10/2005 11:50 am ET by allaround

  4. BrianWI | Apr 10, 2005 08:12pm | #9

    the biggest advantage to calling a plumber in the first place is that you can call him back if it does not work.

    you would have been right to t into the vent if it is in fact a vent.

    direct connecting the washer to the stand pipe will defeat the vent anyway. you need the airbreak.

    2" is larger than needed. so thats not it.

    if you cut in a studor make sure it is higher than the spill level of the stand pipe. if that works then you could cut into VTR. 15 bucks down the drain but hey cast is heavy. id just do it but your plumbing sounds so goofy.

    if you called a deicent shop theyll probably send out someone more qualified on the second trip.

    1. DANL | Apr 10, 2005 08:58pm | #10

      Thanks again--wife says it hasn't backed up again since we took the stocking off the discharge pipe. Will hold my breath and hope it continues to work. If not I've got some things to work with--including calling the plumber back!

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