FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Waste pipe in way of kitchen cabinets

MichaelNYC | Posted in General Discussion on February 2, 2009 09:21am

OK, this is hard to explain, but I wanted to see if anyone had any advice: I am renovating the kitchen. After ripping down old walls (1927 house), discovered that old cabinets were proud of the wall about 2″ to accommodate the cast iron waste pipe from the bathroom above. It runs down the exterior wall of the kitchen into the basement. So I have a flat wall until it hits the cast iron pipe which curves out about 2 inches, then back to a flat wall.

I know the simple solution is to just mount the upper cabinets two inches out and live with it. Same with base. But what if I want to put the cabinets on the actual wall — can I cut into the cabinets to accommodate the pipe and then try to mask it when it comes to the backsplash area? Just don’t want to create a lot of extra work in building out the wall 2″, and wouldn’t be bothered by the pipe being exposed as long as I can paint it, etc.

Any ideas?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. MikeHennessy | Feb 02, 2009 09:26pm | #1

    You can do what you suggest, but, IMHO, it's a whole lot easier to fir out the wall 2" than to customize both upper & lower cabs, the backsplash and the countertop. If you have the space, I'd say fir out the wall. If not, improvise.

    Mike Hennessy
    Pittsburgh, PA

    1. MichaelNYC | Feb 02, 2009 09:30pm | #2

      Would it look weird to fir out just the center section of the cabinet run where the pipe is located -- like a bump-out of a couple of inches, and the rest of the cabs are against the real wall?

      1. MikeHennessy | Feb 02, 2009 09:38pm | #3

        Dunno. Depends on what you think looks wierd. Lotsa folks are perfectly happy with something that sends me running retching. ;-)

        You may wanna post a plan or photo.

        Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Feb 02, 2009 09:45pm | #4

        You might want to go with the "fitted kitchen" look.Where the cabinets are different depths and some stick out to give a hint of a bunch of individual pieces of furniture..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. DanH | Feb 02, 2009 09:51pm | #5

          Aw, just paint the pipe a nice cheery color and notch the cabinets around it.
          The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

  2. User avater
    PeterJ | Feb 02, 2009 10:13pm | #6

    Exterior wall? Plaster and lath? If you can't /don't want to move pipe completely into wall. You could jog pipe into wall just where it would be seen in backsplash and notch & box in cabinets.

    Furring out might facilitate other things though. Like wiring for more outlets.

     

     

    Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

    1. MichaelNYC | Feb 02, 2009 10:17pm | #7

      That was my original idea --- jog the wall around the pipe. It wasn't plaster and lath -- the original Beaver Wallboard from 1927. This is an obvious question, but will notching the cabinet (one upper, one lower) to accommodate the pipe seriously affect their stability? They are plywood boxes, not particleboard. Thanks.

      1. User avater
        PeterJ | Feb 02, 2009 10:35pm | #8

        Shouldn't affect cab strength, but I'd notch and then box with 1/4" for shelf stability and looks. Unless there's a reason not to, I'd make the backsplash area flat, so the only clue to the pipe is seen inside cabinets.

        Might also want to consider if you'll ever need to get to pipe again in future remodeling. Truth is, I'd fur the wall out unless there was a compelling reason not to. 

        Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

      2. klhoush | Feb 02, 2009 10:49pm | #9

        Cut the pipe and route it in the wall. The owner doesn't want to see that every day.

        Spending a few hours now will save you a few hours installing the cabinets.

      3. User avater
        BillHartmann | Feb 02, 2009 11:05pm | #12

        Notching the cabinet won't affect it too much.But it will destroy the back.And if that is the main attachment points for the upper it might give you some problems.Might need to reinforce the back or the way that it attaches to the box and/or add other ways of attaching the cabinet to the wall..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. brownbagg | Feb 03, 2009 12:29am | #13

          I had the same problem, I had to add a soffit at the top due to truss sitting on top of the frame wall

      4. peteshlagor | Feb 03, 2009 12:51am | #14

        Can your cabinet supplier supply a 10" deep cab in addition to the 12's?

         

  3. Hackinatit | Feb 02, 2009 10:49pm | #10

    Firring the wall is a heckuva lot easier than fighting old, crooked framing when hanging the cabinets. You can run your nailers at key intervals to accomdate your cabinet choice... in this case, full height cabinets. You also have much more ability to locate outlets where you need them rather than being limited by stud locations.

    View Image

    Notice on this picture that two adjacent studs would have caused the wall to have a 1/2" difference...

    shimming and letting in the firring allowed for a much easier installation of the cabinets. In fact, the wall was so true that there is no need for trim strips where the cabinets meet the drywall. The entire cabinet installation was done by the homeowner and his FIL in about 3 hours.

    View Image

    A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.

    1. MikeHennessy | Feb 03, 2009 03:34pm | #20

      Exactly. (Nice pics.) WAY easier in the long run, and as a bonus, you get a perfect hanging system, a straight wall, and easy countertops/backsplash. Spend an hour firing out, save about 10 hrs. messing around butchering and rebuilding cabs, shimming wacked studs, futzing with a jogged counter, boxing in the pipe, etc.

      Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

  4. User avater
    DDay | Feb 02, 2009 10:57pm | #11

    Unless your case is something very different than you describe, I would fur it out. Your cabinets are the finish, and at that stage you don't want to notch out things or whatever. If the wall was not open and you did not want it open, then maybe something else would be a better solution but not with the wall open.

    Figure out your where you will screw the cabinets to the wall and put furring there so you won't need to find studs.

  5. Piffin | Feb 03, 2009 01:00am | #15

    Three options

    Have plumber move pipe into wall

    Rebuild cabs around pipe

    Furr wall out plumb and straight to leave pipe there.

    pick your choice and live with it.
    Mine would be the first or the last.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  6. calvin | Feb 03, 2009 03:18am | #16

    Michael.

    I've done all the suggestions above-according to the demands at the time.

    The only problems with cutting into the cabs would be the depth of drawers. .........and I've "relieved " them too when needed to clear gas line/pipes etc.  At the counter-I'd put a boxed cover over the pipe-splash and counter around that.  Looks weird to some-others don't even see it.

    Especially the man on a fast horse.

    A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

  7. breadman128 | Feb 03, 2009 03:33am | #17

    In 1927 that carpenter knew what to do,
    Follow his example.........

  8. barmil | Feb 03, 2009 05:54am | #18

    My advice is call the plumber to reroute the waste drain. You and I could spend all week cutting the pipe, and he'll do it in a few minutes, put in plastic elbows, and viola (my brand of voila), it's over. Life is too short.

  9. mike4244 | Feb 03, 2009 06:25am | #19

    First remove the section of old galvanized pipe and replace it with pvc,abs or copper.

    Then fur out the wall. You don't want to go back and remove cabinets in the future if the old pipe fails.Might as well do it now as it is a simple job using fernco couplings.

    mike

    1. MichaelNYC | Feb 03, 2009 04:36pm | #21

      You are all right -- the only reason I hesitate to fir out the wall is the fact that there are two windows that I just installed, so they're going to have a weird 2 or 3" extra depth to them with a very large sill. This really isn't a major issue, but you know how we can get.So now my other question: the cast iron drain pipe is the problem. Runs straight down from bathroom to basement, through kitchen wall. Walls are now open. Does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to have a guy replace that pipe with PVC so it will fit in the wall cavity? If it's not astronomical, I'd prefer to do that and just treat the wall normally.I imagine there will be lots of opinions on this one, and I'm grateful for all of them. Thanks.

      1. User avater
        DDay | Feb 03, 2009 05:08pm | #22

        In NYC? Probably more than you would guess. The cost would depend on exactly how it needs to be replaced, can you just use neoprene sleeves or do you need to lead in the pvc adaptor to the cast iron in the basement. Also a factor you might not think of is, that cast iron may or may not be supporting cast iron sections above the kitchen wall. Also, when you start replacing things like that, you might be opening up a bigger project.In my experience the vertical sections like that last a long time. The sections that rot out are horizontal sections, especially ones that are not pitched correctly.For the windows, its nothing unusual to have extension jambs that are larger than a traditional jamb on a 2x4 wall. If you don't like the look of that wide of an extension jamb, then make the jamb two pieces and step it out halfway. You can do the same with the stool/sill too.

      2. Hackinatit | Feb 03, 2009 05:26pm | #23

        I'd ask if pvc drains are allowed by NYC codes....

        I think they aren't compliant.A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.

        1. MichaelNYC | Feb 03, 2009 05:42pm | #24

          I'm actually in Westchester, the county above NYC, where PVC is allowed. But after reading everything in this thread, I'm going ahead and firring out the walls and leave the pipe where it is. I'll create a nice bump-out with the cabinets and people will think it was part of the master plan. Thanks to everyone for your advice. Much appreciated.

          1. user-201496 | Feb 03, 2009 10:04pm | #26

            Could you put a floor to ceiling pantry cabinet at that location to hide the pipe?

          2. MichaelNYC | Feb 03, 2009 10:20pm | #27

            That's a good idea -- only thing is the pipe is about 15" away from the kitchen sink and a floor to ceiling cab would kill the run of countertop -- so the idea of making a bump out that is centered on the sink and the window above the sink seemed the most aesthetically appealing.

          3. user-201496 | Feb 03, 2009 10:54pm | #28

            Maybe build a small as possible decorative box on both sides of the sink and hang coffee mugs on them. Or build small shelves for nick nacks.

      3. Piffin | Feb 03, 2009 09:48pm | #25

        'how much it would cost to have a guy replace that pipe with PVC so it will fit in the wall cavity?"Less than either of the other options 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Eichlers Get an Upgrade

Performance improvements for the prized homes of an influential developer who wanted us all to be able to own one.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data