Replies

1. 
   gdavis62 | May 18, 2005 03:43am | #1

   Use the Original Sealer / Finish first, then their satin (or gloss if you must) Finish second.  A couple coats each, screened lightly between, should do you fine.

   The lambswool applicator works like a dream for this stuff.  It is very user friendly, and you will enjoy the results.

   Forget the steel wool.

   If you are nervous, buy a piece of pine at the lumberyard, and spend a few days finishing the small piece with your sequence of coats, drying, and screening.

   Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY

    

    

1. 
   Lansdown | May 18, 2005 03:58am | #2

   I was wondering where you went, didn't realize you had changed your 'handle'. Actually I am using the sealer/finish (now called medium sheen) for all 4 coats - had to bootleg it in from R.I. as you can only get it in quarts in NY now.

2. 
   RichBeckman | May 18, 2005 06:00am | #3

   It's been a couple of years since I've used Waterlox, so maybe things have changed, but...

   The cans I had talked about a 24 hour dry time. You can recoat after twenty four hours, I believe, but...

   The web site (somewhere) mentions a seven day curing period.

   After the 24 hours, you want little to no traffic for as much of that seven days as you can manage.

   The first time I used it, stocking foot traffic was permitted after the first day. After seven days it was filthy and needed to be redone.

   Rich Beckman

   Another day, another tool.

3. 
   johnnyd | May 18, 2005 03:46pm | #4

   Like others have said here, don't underestimate the dry time compared to poly.  If you're in the desert, maybe there won't be much difference, but if your relative humidity is 50 - 60 %, it will take a long time to: #1 dry enough between coats, and #2 finally cure...compared to poly at least.

   The mistake I made was to apply waterlox over a coat of shellac...so it took even longer to dry and I didn't gain the advantage of a truly penetrated finish.

1. 
   Lansdown | May 19, 2005 02:30am | #5

   Thanks all for the responses. I have ample time for drying, is 24 hours enough between coats or should it be more?

1. 
   RichBeckman | May 19, 2005 03:07am | #6

   I recoated after an overnight dry (maybe 16 hours) and I didn't have any problem with that.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

2. 
   Piffin | May 19, 2005 03:55am | #7

   There are two things happening when it "drys"One is that the VOCs are evaporating into the air. When the air is cool, there is not enough energy to make the molecules take flight, so things go slower. Also, when the air is damp ( high RH) the spaces between air miolecules is already pretty full of moisture molecules, so there is not much room for VOC molecules in there. The result is that when the air is damp and dcool, it can take 3-4 days before you are ready for another coat. Two is that ( CRS moment here - what ...) Oh yeah - sheepish grin - the molecules in the wood surface that make up the finish are "curing" which means that they are reacting with the oxygen in the air to oxidize and harden. This takes time and oxygen. If not enough warmth and O2 are available, the cure time is slowed. Result is that it can take three or four days to get a decent cure.When you hurry too much and put down three coats too fast without adequate cure time between coats, the middle coat will never harden properly and you will have a floor that can tear or damage like a gel with a skin over it. scuffs and scratches very easily. best way to avoid all this depends on the weather and your heat sources. Sometimes, it is good to open a window and let the VOCs vent out and oxygen come in. b ut idf iut is foggy outside, that brings moisture in with it.
   Running a dehumidifier during the process can help, pr an air conditioner to remove moisture.But if it is too cool, you need heat. Fans to keep the air moving so that fresh air is in contact with the floor surface are good too.So when the family wants to know why you are running the AC and the heater, and the fans, with the windows both open and closed, just pretend to stagger a little and hold up your martini glass full of Waterlox, and ask stuporously if they would like a share ...not;) 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Lansdown | May 19, 2005 04:10am | #8

   ROAR...That was god Mr.Science. Since family is not there I can drink as many martini's as I want LOL. Hope to install in 2 weeks time. Temps should be in the 60's and has been pretty dry this week in eastern Long Island. Will run fans and have lot's of ventilation, don't think I will need heat but will turn it on if it gets cold. Dumb question .. how will I know if it is dry enough for recoat - treat it the same as poly or are there other indicators I should look for.

1. 
   Piffin | May 19, 2005 04:36am | #9

   not tacky. How easy to scratch with thumbnail. Latter one is judgement call, former is easy. Touch it with a clean dry hand. push palm righ down if light touch feels OK. if palm wants to stick of feels tacky, take another patience pill. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   ahneedhelp | May 19, 2005 04:44am | #10

   Enjoyed your thorough explanation of the process.I suppose a dehumidifier would serve the dual purpose of....dehumidifying and producing heat in the process, especially if the windows are cracked open only just enough to allow fresh air in.

3. 
   johnnyd | May 19, 2005 03:42pm | #11

   Precisely my experience, right down to the scratch and tear easy part....good thing about waterlox is that you can selectively re-finish over the damaged areas, which I will do some nice warm dry day this summer.