I am considering a wood counter (maple, birch or beech). Has anyone used waterlox as a finish? With an undermount sink? What did you use or would you suggest to use as backsplash with the wood counter and white cabinets.
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Replies
I've used Waterlox quite a bit as a finish, mostly on furniture and turnings.
Its one of the better wipe-on finishes, since the Tung oil is a lot more durable than linseed oil.
Give it several coats to start, letting them sit for a while to soak in, and then wipe the excess off. I'd say 3-4 coats should be good to start. You can always add additional coats.
Whenever the counter starts looking dry or spotty , just add another coat or 3, and you should be good.
I'll agree with Shep.
And add that for undermount sinks, you want to seal that edge with epoxy. End grain will draw a lot of water in and that will be the ruination of the countertop, so seal there first, mount the sink, thenn do your oil surface
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Please forgive my ignorance (I'm more the researcher than the do-er) what sort of epoxy would you recommend for sealing the edge?
I have used a system three one and a west systems.You want to read label to be sure that you are getting one that is clear and non yellowing. I once used a cheap five minute type that turned yellow and I had to sand it off and redo.
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Remember, Waterlox takes seven days to fully cure. You can recoat as soon as it is "dry", but once you're done applying coats, try to leave it be for a week.
Rich Beckman
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Actually there is a lot of variance in that cure rate. It can be done in three days or it can take ten or twelve
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Homegirl,
I just built a vanity out of white oak and used a product by Behlen called Rock Hard Tabletop Finish. It is supposed to be water, heat, and chemical resistant, and as the title says, it is rock hard. It has worked great so far. I'm not saying I don't like Waterlox, I've used it before on furniture and have been happy with it, just not sure if its the best application for a countertop.
Wolfman